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OLIFFE 

INCIDENTS OF 
P EC U L I A R 
BELIEFS IN 
MERIDIONAL 
FRANCE 



BY MAXWELL SOMMERVILLE 

PROTESSOR OF GLYPTOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA; AUTHOR OF 

"a wanderer's legend," " ENGRAVED GEMS," " SANDS OF SAHARA,' 

" SIAM," "epochs of ENGRAVED gems," ETC. CORRESPONDING 

MEMBER OF THE SOCIETE ACADEMIQUE DES SCIENCES, ARTS ET 

BELLES-LETTRES DU DEPARTEMENT DE L'AUBK. FRANCE 

ETC., ETC. 



.<.::lS!&A^«>v, 



m^^ 




ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR 



1903 
DREXEL BIDDLE, PUBLISHER 

PHILADELPHIA 



THE LIBRARY ©F 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

APR ! 1903 

Copyright Entry 

CLASS o- )0(c. No. 

COPY B, 



COPYRIGHT 

BY 

A. J. DREXEL BIDDLE 
1903. 



r^' 



..^5 - ..:^c,^ 



THE DREXEL BIDDLE PRESS 
PHILADELPHIA. 






PREFACE 



As in most of the books I have written, the 
incidents given in 

"JOLI F FE," 

are the result of my ov^^n experiences in travel. 

The characters are all people vi^hom I have 
met and knov^^n. 

They are, in a measure, responsible for the 
religious sentiments. 

MAXWELL SOMMERVILLE. 



CONTENTS 

Frontispiece — Cathedral Church of St. Reparata 

—Old Nice. 
Chapter. Page. 

I. Saint Reparata 7 

II. Grasse ii 

Burmese 15 

III. Berlodina — Gypsies 17 

IV. Grasse — Bookstores 20 

Grasse Books — Berlodina 20 

V. Ricardo the Sculptor — On 

Hilltop 26 

Saint Cecilia 33 

VI. Lady Nolinsford 35 

VII. Berlodina's History of Grasse... 39 

VIII. Grasse — Climate and View 41 

Grasse — Parrot 42 

The Story of Adelia's Life 43 

IX. Adelia's Story 45 

X. Adelia's Story— The Charlatan... 56 

XI. Adelia's Story — Salvation Army. . 59 
XII. Cathedral of Saint Etiehne and 

Basilica du Sacre Coeur 62 

Adelia's Story 63 

XIII. Joliffe and Rinaldo 64 

Adelia's Story — Jolifife 64 

Adelia, Jolifife, and the Dogs 

(Illustration) 65 

XIV. Adelia's Escapade 68 

Adelia's Story— The Hospital... 71 

XV. Our Villa at Grasse 79 

Evenings in Our Villa at Grasse 80 



Chapter Page 

Environs of Grasse 83 

XVI. lycaving Grasse 84 

XVII. Cagnes 89 

XVIII. Ricardo's Visit 93 

XIX. Callac and Tarn 96 

Tarn 98 

Gaston's Early Life 99 

XX. Berlodina's Visit loi 

XXI. The Gypsy Encampment 106 

XXII. Cagnes — Rain 113 

Cagnes 115 

XXIII. Leaving Cagnes 117 

En Route to La Tourbie 118 

Promenade des Anglais 120 

XXIV. Nice and Refuges 121 

XXV. The Corniche 125, 126, 129 

The Corniche — Toyland 132 

XX VL Under the Olive Trees 135 

XXVII. Incidents on the Corniche 146 

XXVIII. Rocquebrune 156 

XXIX. La Tourbie — Ahmed Aleco 

Shereefe 160 

La Tourbie — Aleco 163 

XXX. La Tourbie— Samuel 167 

Head (Illustration) 173 

XXXI. Francois — Madagascar 177 

Gaston Speaks 180 

XXXII. Laghetto 184, 186 

Shrine and Monastery of 

Laghetto (Illustration) 185 

XXXIII. Adelia and Joliffe Arrive 192 

XXXIV. Sequence 197 

XXXV. Appendix — Jolifife's Iron Box.... 198 
XXXVI. Closing of the Eighteenth and 
Commencement of the 
Nineteenth Century 214 



JOLIFFE 



CHAPTER I. 

On returning with my family from India in 
September, 1898, we went from Marseilles 
immediately to Nice. Having been long 
accustomed to tropical climates, the temperature 
of the Alpes Maritimes was always agreeable to 
us when in Europe. We had our Indian ayah 
from Calcutta attendant on my wife and little 
daughter. Our tried Chinese servant, Vil-Lee, 
or Willie, was also with us. We soon added to 
our household one Gaston as valet, and Francois 
as coachman. Few strangers were at Nice at that 
time. Happily the sea was beautiful and the 
atmosphere inspiring. Daily making additions 
to my water color drawings, I passed some time 
in the old Italian town beyond the Paillon. On 
the last afternoon of that visit I closed my case of 
pencils and colors with a sketch of the old Church 
of St. Reparata (i), with its mosaic dome, its 
bell tower, the fruit market against its north wall 
and the fountain whose water was thought to be 
the best in the old town, it having been blessed by 
a prelate when Nice belonged to Italy. 

(1) Saint Reparata was a virgin of Cesarea, in the 
Province of Cappadocia. She suffered martyrdom under 
Decius. 

7 



SAINT REPARATA 

I left that shrine, where during many winters 
I formerly had joined the throng that gathered 
there to offer their humble petitions and renew 
their confessions of faith. 

As I moved away the deep tones of the bell in 
the tower seemed to call to me, saying: "Come 
back, wanderer, renew thy faith." At times that 
bell is a tocsin, warning and appealing to sinners ; 
at other moments its mellow tones gently remind 
the devout of their faith. 

In other v/inters I had not often entered the 
Italian town ; I had occupied myself with making 
a series of sketches of the hamlets built in the 
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, on almost 
inaccessible rocks. They were refuges where 
the inhabitants made their homes and had faith 
in their security from the attacks of pirates of 
Algiers, Tunis and Tripoli. My collection 
contains Saint Jeannet, Falicon, Eza, Peillon, 
Contes, La Tourette, Saint Andre" and 
Aspremonte, etc. 

With the intention of visiting other interesting 
winter resorts, we procured a vetura, a traveling 
tally-ho with box for luggage, closets for 
provisions, etc., etc. 

On the 29th of September we left Nice, 
forsaking its flov^^er gardens and markets to spend 
the month of October, where the perfume of those 
flowers is extracted and concentrated, at Grasse, 



JOLIFFE 

where we had secured a small villa, which was at 
our disposition until the commencement of the 
winter term, on the 15th of November. 

The day of our departure from Nice was 
beautiful, as is every day at this season. We 
enjoyed the scenery and our pleasure was 
enhanced by the kind attentions of Francois Gallo, 
our veturino, the driver of our traveling coach. 
He was an Auvergnian of Clermont Ferrand by 
birth. He had lived in Montbrison, where he 
was an altar boy and afterwards assistant to the 
verger of the Church of Notre Dame de 
I'Esperance. He had the peculiarity of the 
Auvergnian race, being loquacious and 
superstitious. The latter quality he had acquired 
since he came to reside with his grandparents, in 
the neighborhood of Cagnes, in the Alpes 
Maritimes, where at the same time he learned the 
peculiar patois of the department. He had also 
a little tinge of T^Ialgache in his manner of 
speaking, for he had been called to Madagascar 
to perform three years of military service. He 
had fraternized with the natives and even learned 
to understand them. 

Francois called our attention to all points of 
interest on the way. Frequently he volunteered 
his opinion on the events of the day, and freely 
stated his religious opinions. 

At noon on our left, a group of peasants stopped 
9 



SAINT JULIEN LE PAUVRE 

for a few moments at prayer at a roadside shrine. 
Francois, fearing that we might not understand 
that such pubHc devotions were common in that 
country, spoke to us, saying: "Those peasants 
are sincere worshipers ; it is their strong faith 
that warrants them in feehng that a blessing will 
attend their prayers. Is it not to be admired?" 
asked he. ''Do you see that little glass window 
set into the stone of the shrine? Within that 
recess is kept a piece of the bone of Saint Julien 
le Pauvre. It is a reliquary much esteemed in 
this section. In other rehquaries locks of hair 
are kept that once adorned the heads of holy men 
of the church. Some of them are of the eleventh 
and twelfth centuries. To you perhaps," said 
Francois, "these relics have no interest; to these 
simple-hearted people they are souvenirs of holy 
men who died in that faith, which now is the 
confirmation of those whom you see kneeling by 
the wayside." 

What hope can we have in life without faith? 



10 



CHAPTER II. 

GRASSE. 

On our arrival at Grasse, at 4 P. M., we find 
all in order. Berlodina, the botanist, from 
whom we had rented the villa, had attended 
to everything. After the usual commotion 
attendant on such an installation, we were inclined 
to have faith in the persons Berlodina had 
secured for our service. 

Our Chinese boy, Vil-Lee, or Willie, whom we 
brought with us from Shanghai, has always been 
so attentive, useful and gentle that we feel a 
great regard for him. His name was really one 
given to him at a mission school in Canton, and 
WilHam, among his Chinese friends, easily became 
Vil-Lee. It was of little matter to him in the 
mission school to change his name, but to change 
his faith that was another thing. His faith was as 
deep-rooted as his Mongolian will, yet he always 
believed himself to be a Christian, from the 
moment that he learned to speak English. He 
often said to our friends who would question 
him about his religious belief: "Me Chlistan, 
but me beleebee in Confucius allee samee. Me 
fathe dead long timee fo we came 'way. Me eat 



VIL-LEE, OUR CHINESE BOY 

good things now. ( i ) Me heal fine music now. ( i ) 
Me fathe gone good place! He no mole 
wolkee ! Me have buy good coffin in Canton and 
send him Shanghai, allee led and yallow and gold. 
Me payee twenty boy and gullee, some pushee, 
some pullee my fathe to cemetelly whelle stay 
allee lightee. Me Chlistan. Me no payee solcel 
to diive 'way devil. He no good. Me makee 
put led lettels on his glave. He lest thele like 
gleat man allee samee. From leel boy me workee 
for missionaly. Evly tim^ee me fathe tell me : 
'Son Lee, shut you eal ; you chile now; you 
doane know what Confucius teachee. Waitee! 
Thinkee ! 

''When me get sixteen they gave me hat of man. 
Me fathe say : 'Now you man ; thinkee for 
youself.' Me no beleebee in high housee. (i) Me 
got faith in good spilits, who come to ealth to 
blessee ; let them have placee fo come neah. Me 
Chlistan. Me wantee allee timee good spilit come 
blessee. Me now have chosee ; me have left in 
Shanghai me Li-Ki book (2) ; me now takee you 
God-book. O ! good stolies in it. Old Jonah and 
wale. He go in. Wale don't hult him ! Me 
likee Confucius allee samee." 

Willie lost no time in giving us his opinion 

(1) After a certain time Chinese youth are allowed 
to eat good things and indulge in musi'c. 

(1) The good spirits hover about 30 metres from earth 
according to Chinese superstition. 

(2) Book of counsel and of morals. 

12 



JOLIFFE 

of our new residence on the hillside at Grasse. 
He was ever cheerful, always respectful and 
thoroughly entertaining. 

Grasse is situated on the flank of Mount 
Rocavignon. It lies a kilometre below our house, 
and fifteen kilometres from the sea. 

During some days we descended to the town 
and sauntered about to learn the bearings of the 
place. In the upper town we looked into the 
well called Foux, on the Jeu de Ballon. We saw 
the mediaeval tower, considered by the oldest 
residents a Roman monument, and the chapel of 
Saint Hiliare, once a temple of Jupiter. We 
visited the laboratories, where perfumes are 
extracted in quantities from the flowers of the 
Riviera. 

We were pleased when in looking among the 
shops we found one of Benares ware and general 
East India art. I soon made the acquaintance 
of the proprietor, Lala Ledic from Ahmadabad ; 
in fact, we had known him in India. He had two 
brothers on the Riviera, one in Cannes and one 
in Nice. Though such a distance from their 
native land, they had not forgotten their faith. 
Lala Ledic had a bronzed complexion. His 
quaint costume was as in his native country. 
Among other goods for sale he had some of his 
Hindoo divinities with him. Several times I 
entered his shop when he was not expecting 

13 



LALA LEDIC 

anyone. Once he was in the back room with a 
globular-bowled, long-handled spoon, a "Cheerag 
Ke Chum-Much," containing a few drops of 
fragrant water, which he held for an instant over 
a flame; then as he kneeled before ''Siva, the 
Destroyer," he dropped some of its contents on 
its head. He then bowed before Vishnu, again 
to Siva. Another day before Krishna; Parbati 
did not receive as much attention. When he 
prayed to Siva it was evidently with fear, for in 
the worship of Siva faith is fear ; yet I think his 
greatest faith was in Vishnu, the Preserver. 

Having lived in India, we felt that it would 
add to our comfort to decorate at least one of 
our rooms with Oriental draperies. We not only 
made our purchase, but enjoyed the pleasure Lala 
evinced at seeing us again and securing our 
custom. He had also Indian and Persian trinkets, 
moonstone rings, turquoise V\^ith gilded mystic 
designs. The most interesting of all the objects 
shown to us was a curious, maculated agate, on 
the dark gray surface of which Vv^as engraved a 
grotesque representation of the face of an 
imaginary creature. Around the border of the 
stone glimmered a pale, reddish color, as though a 
hidden light were escaping from behind the 
clouded centre. 

In ancient times in India when the sun became 
eclipsed the ignorant and superstitious people, 

14 



JOLIFFE 

seeing certain birds and animals go to rest, owls 
begin to scream, vampires and bats to fly about, 
imagined that they saw a terrible face on the 
obscure disc. Their priests had such stones as 
this Indian talisman prepared by skillful incisori, 
and taught their superstitious followers to carry 
them with faith in their protecting power. 

Our visits to Lala were frequent. We often 
left his shop with regret, for the objects he 
displayed reminded us of happy years in his 
country. He always entertained us with interesting 
facts about his home, his peculiar people and 
their faith. 

BURMESE. 

Most of these shops on the Riviera were kept 
by East Indian Hindus, yet there was an 
interesting Burmese bazaar at Grasse, kept by 
two cousins, Abd-Dama and Mihra-Gatha, from 
Mandalay. They offered for sale the specialties 
of their interesting country, those beautifully 
ornamented caiques, long double-pointed boats 
with as many as twenty oarsmen. Other figures 
amusingly grotesque, in carved teak wood, and 
withal a number of Buddhist deities. 

In Ceylon, Burmah and Siam one meets 
everywhere in holy places, effigies in bronze or 
gilded lacquered wood of the deity Binzuru. I 
have often mingled with the faithful as they 

15 



BURMESE 

approached believingly Binzuru and touched 
reverently that part corresponding with whatever 
member caused them pain. After a few words 
of prayer they then appHed the hand with 
confidence to the suffering parts of their own 
bodies. In firm beHef of the efficacy of the cure 
they often turned to me with a smihng expression 
of satisfaction, with a sigh, a gesture, that seemed 
to say : ''I am reHeved !" 

"Stranger, brother, try it yourself! !" 
All these Oriental merchants were quiet, but 
these Burmese were so phlegmatic that they 
actually seemed indifferent about making sales, 
exercising no special effort to dispose of their 
wares. They seemed to regard us as thoughtless 
beings, not having any particular belief, while 
within themselves they evidently rejoiced that 
they were not as we and appreciated the fact that 
they possessed their faith in Buddha. 



CHAPTER III. 

BERLODIN A — GYPSIES . 

Soon after our arrival Berlodina promised to 
make known to us what he had learned of the 
history of Grasse. He gave us some incidents 
which were traditional, not history, he omitted 
nothing that could interest us. At the moment 
of our residence there, one incident to which he 
drew our attention led to many pleasant 
interviews and the acquaintance of one whose 
career was certainly remarkable. He mentioned 
to us an encampment of gypsies, which had been 
located at Grasse four times in as many years. 
His chief object in drawing our attention to it 
was the interest he felt in a young gypsy girl, 
whose acquaintance he had made on the occasion 
of the first visit of the Zigans, and whose 
character he thought to be remarkably lovely. 
After giving us an account of the head man, 
Rinaldo, he proposed to take us to see the 
encampment and make us acquainted with Adelia, 
the gypsy fortune teller. We gladly accepted his 
invitation, and to this day have rejoiced in the 
pecuHar friendship which has been the result of 
our meeting that gypsy girl. The tent wagons 
were placed near a grove of medlar trees, near a 

17 



THE GYPSY ENCAMPMENT 

rocky ledge. Rinaldo's son, Gerbo, was bringing 
a pail of cool water from a spring close by. 
It was after 2 o'clock; they had just risen 
from the grass, where they had been taking their 
mid-day repast. Their outfit consisted of four 
habitable wagons, two coarse Bedouin tents, such 
as one sees in the environs of Ouargla, in the 
desert of Sahara. Berlodina introduced us to 
Adelia, the fortune teller. We soon became 
interested in her conversation. Even now we 
recollect how she evinced pleasure in having met 
us. Our interview, however, was for the moment 
interrupted. Three young women arrived 
from Grasse. We afterwards learned that 
two of them were milliners and one a dressmaker. 
They came to ascertain what prospect there was 
of their obtaining the right kind of husbands. 

Of course, that afternoon we could not speak 
much with Adelia. She, however, found time to 
introduce us to Rinaldo, the master spirit and 
proprietor of the caravan. He courteously 
entertained us with accounts of his wandering and 
checkered career. The most important fact he 
communicated was that he had a faith and he 
believed in it for what it was worth to him 
commercially. 

We saw into his character somewhat by the 
manner that he caressed Adelia's horse and the 
attentions he received from her dogs, Flossie and 

18 



JOLIFFE 

Kiki. Adelia on another occasion related to me 
some curious facts with regard to Rinaldo's 
superstitions. She also called in Nicolas, a bright- 
looking young man, who had charge of her horse. 
After a few words with him we wondered that 
a man apparently so intelligent should have such 
a vocation. 

We were much amused while waiting there to 
see the number of young women who entered the 
saloon wagon to have their fortunes told. Our 
visits to those wanderers enabled us to cultivate 
the attentions of Adelia, which proved more and 
more interesting and profitable. 



19 



CHAPTER IV. 

GRASSE — BOOKSTORES. 

When satisfied with roaming in the environs 
we found an attractive place where I frequently 
spent some hours. It was the bookstore, which 
in such tov/ns in Southern France often serves 
as the public library. After making the man's 
acquaintance he quickly perceived that I was a 
bibliophile. He showed me books, some of 
which might be termed of advanced ideas. These 
I read hastily and gladly purchased anything 
concerning this section of France and whatever 
presented itself on the superstitions of various 
countries and the peculiar beliefs of the people. 
Thorough cosmopolitans are seldom at loss for 
society. That happily was our case at Grasse. 
Our learned friend, Berlodina, often came to 
spend an evening with us. Those visits were 
indeed profitable. At times we conversed on the 
extinct animals of the tertiary period, the 
elephantus, the diotherium and the mastodon, for 
even in the environs of Grasse strange remains of 
the bones of animals had been excavated ; those 
immense skeletons being the only relics we have of 
their existence. Again we spoke of animals that 
now dwell on land, which once lived in the water. 

20 



JOLIFFE 

Like sponges, they almost, remained in one place, 
where the motion of the sea suppHed them with 
nourishment without any effort on their part. 
One might well designate that as the period of 
indolence. They were embryotic at that time : 
evolution has since developed them. "When I 
look at the boys of the present generation," said 
Berlodina, "I perceive evidence of continual 
evolution ; the boys of to-day are not as we were 
seventy years ago." 

In speaking of the choice flowers in his garden 
Berlodina dwelt upon the importance of proper 
attention to their protection. "I am careful," 
said he, "to attract such birds as are useful in 
my gardens. I say attract them, for birds w411 
come where they know that no one will kill them. 
I also warn and even implore the men over the 
country not to kill them. I regret to say that 
is very difficult to accomplish on our Riviera." 
From early morning till evening the country is 
overrun by idle men with guns, ready to kill any 
bird that has feathers enough to give them an 
object at which to shoot. Many of these birds 
are not worth eating, and though they are seldom 
appreciated they are the best mediums we can 
rely on to suppress the growth of weeds. This 
they do by eating the seeds, and protect the plants 
by destroying the destructive insects. 

In connection with that subject he spoke of 

21 



ANIMALS AND PLANTS 

botanical specimens now only to be seen as we 
find their impressions in fossiliferous rocks of 
the tertiary period. A few plants were also 
mentioned that were hidden away in the tombs of 
the Etruscans, withered evidences of a peculiar 
faith of that race which almost passed out of 
existence before Rome was well established. 

I spoke to Berlodina about that library, and in 
a general way of the literature of the age. He 
said : "Books of all descriptions are at that man's 
shop, zoology, botany, mineralogy, history, 
fiction, and, alas ! many books calculated to twist 
one's head." 

GRASSE BOOKS— BERLODINA. 

In a certain author's recent book I read of 
"reconstructing the ultimate — the reconstruction 
of the Cosmos and the transmutation of 
Planorbis." Progress, the same author said, in 
fact, can only go on by enlisting man's reason 
against itself. "I must confess to you, honored 
sir," said he, "that I regretted the time I gave to 
that book, and I was convinced that my reason 
as it went up against itself told me: 'Take the 
word of God; be content with thy faith.' Until 
our faith is tried how can we know that it will be 
abiding? They that suffered and endured as did 
the early Christians had indeed faith. Why did 
those early heroes, Saint Stephen and Saint 

22 



JOLIFFE 

Sebastian, submit unmoved to tortures? It was 
entirely the power of their faith that enabled 
them so triumphantly to pass through their 
martyrdom." 

After visiting almost every country on the face 
of the earth, studying the manners and customs 
of many people, I have come to the conviction 
that nearly all mankind have placed their faith 
in some superhuman power, or in an object which 
they endowed with divine attributes. It is 
remarkable that they have seldom seen the being 
in whom they have placed their faith. What shall 
we say of the faith that almost everyone has 
for some potion or another for restoration to 
health ? After all it frequently is faith that cures. 
I have conversed with people from far western 
homes in the country of the aborigines of those 
red in skin, painted and plumed. They have told 
me that their faith is so firm in the medicine man 
that though he only stands near them with his 
mystic bag of bones, shells and pebbles, they 
trust in him^ and communicate their faith to others 
of their race, who in their turn, believing 
implicitly, also find relief. The fetish men serve 
willingly those who come to them believing they 
are mediators between man and the spirits, whom 
they represent as having power to cure all human 
ills for those who have faith. 

On another occasion, when speaking of his 

23 



FAITH 

travels, Berlodina said : ''In the same country I 
saw men who placed their faith in dried 
coxcombs, sewed into little snakeskin pouches." 

I asked what do they do in case one of these 
amulets fails to cure. "Oh," replied he, "then 
that one must be broken up or burned !" 

In some of their temples I saw evidence that 
the people placed their faith in snakes. I spoke 
with women who even sought to gain the good 
will of those deities whom they really believed 
to be avengers, lest they might incur their anger. 
Their faith was placed in those gods whom they 
dreaded. Faith in Christ is founded on love, 
fetichism on fear. 

There are tribes in Africa who know not any 
divine master ; they have unlimited faith in their 
sorcerers, and obey them in all things, even when 
commanded to be cruel. They are, indeed, in 
error; their faith is misplaced. 

Think of the contrast between tribes almost 
neighbors. In another village not far away, the 
people have such faith in a supreme being who 
has created all things, that they believe the Creator 
so far above humanity that men should never dare 
to address Him, even in supplication. Their ideji 
is that man should plead with mediators, whom 
the Maker of all things has fore-ordained. These 
they recognize in the stars and planets of the 
firmament. 

24 



JOUFFE 

When we reflect reasonably about nations to 
whom the precious message has never been made 
known, we cannot wonder that some of them 
adore nature, the sun, the moon; in fact, the 
greater works of the Divine Workman, whom 
they intuitively adore. 

In this country, the Riviera, it is the peasantry 
who are ignorant and superstitious. The first 
inhabitants after the Roman occupation here were 
spoken of as pagans, and three centuries later 
those same people were called peasants. We know 
that in the fifth century the word pagan 
was equally applied to those still believing in 
mythological effigies, and the less intormed people 
who cultivated the lands. To that source we trace 
the derivation of the word "peasant." 



CHAPTER V. 
RICARDO, THE SCULPTOR— ON HILLTOP 

After climbing of a morning the wooded hills 
and reaching the higher plateaus north of Grasse 
I have at times sat down under the fir trees, 
which charge the air with their aromatic perfume, 
and looking down on the placid water beyond 
the islands I have given audience to my thoughts. 
At such times I have asked myself : "Can it be 
possible that one can have a surfeit of any 
precious condition?" Just then I realized that 
day after day, week after week of continued 
sunshine did commence to be too much of a very 
delightful condition. From exposure to the rays 
of the sun and the morning's climb I would 
gladly have refreshed my palate at a cooling 
spring. 

My thoughts as I looked out on the great sea 
below us reverted to the incident of a boat adrift 
on an ocean, cast on vast depths of water, and 
not a drop to drink. With my sense of heat I 
realized that I was beneath the very sky that 
perhaps was frowning on others. In this region, 
with not a cloud to shade my way, so little shelter 
between me and the bright source of light and 
heat, I was convinced that man is seldom 



JOLIFFE 

contented with his lot. Just then an instance of 
contentment presented itself. As I and my valet, 
Gaston, and Berlodina, who had accompanied me 
that morning, sat at our ease under the fir trees 
beyond the Cours, the highest point of the road, 
we perceived to the west, below us, a Russian 
shepherd dog, attached to a small frame wagon, 
toiling up the steep hill, aided by his master, an 
old man, and a youth, who proved to be his son. 
They soon were glad to partake of the shade 
beside us. They reHeved Nico, their tailless dog, 
of his harness. Nico regarded me an instant, 
and, seeing that I was fond of animals, he had 
faith in me, and threw his weary body heavily at 
my feet and with a kindly upturned eye he seemed 
to say : "We, too, will rest." This shepherd dog 
was imported from Russia. I afterwards saw 
one in the forests of Meudon, near Paris. His 
master assured me that he was born without any 
tail. Providentially the eyes of these dogs are 
protected from the rays of an Alpes Maritimes sun 
by the drooping locks which curl before them. 
We conversed. The old man informed me that 
he was Ricardo Massi. He told me his errand, 
explained his occupation. 

Fortunately I understood his dialect. Gaston 
had forgotten to bring water this morning. 
Ricardo was thoughtful; from his wagon he 
produced a large gourd, containing wine diluted 

27 



RICARDO, THE SCULPTOR 

with spring water. He generously insisted that 
we should quench our thirst with him, assuring 
us that he had plenty more in his ambulant 
storehouse. 

Ricardo was a sculptor of reHgious figures in 
wood. He was accompanied by his son, Geraldi, 
from Saint Cezaire, a youth of twenty-five years, 
who had become even more proficient than his 
father, who had instructed him. The carved 
figures in his little wagon were to fill orders in 
various parishes within fifty kilometres of Cannes. 
Those he had with him that day were the result 
of his summer's work on religious subjects, which 
had been ordered by congregations in the 
neighboring country. 

Ricardo exhibited his sculpture to us with pride. 
There was an attractive figure of Saint Anthony 
of Padua, in brown monk's garment, for the 
parish church of the twelfth century, at Grasse. 

A figure, half size, of Saint Cecile, for the 
Chateau Millereale, near La Gaude. 

An image of Saint Sebastian, for the monastery 
of Lerins, on the Island of Saint Honorat. 

A Bambino for the church at Vallauris Golfe 
Saint Juan, the parish of several thousand potters. 
Vallauris is celebrated for its potteries. 

Another Bambino for the church of the ancient 
Antipoles, at Antibes. 

Ricardo, when showing us his work, became 

28 



JOLIFFE 

eloquent at times ; he said that he cared more to 
work on that figure of Saint Sebastian than all 
the others, because Saint Sebastian had such an 
interesting history. As Ricardo had informed 
himself at Rome, he gave us the following 
veritable account. 

Saint Sebastian's martyrdom is the most 
authentic of all the heroes of the Roman Catholic 
Church. 

Sebastian was a native of Narbonne, of Gaul, 
of noble parentage. Through family influence 
he was appointed to the command of a company 
in the Praetorian Guards. He enjoyed the 
especial favor of the Emperor, yet he was secretly 
a Christian. That faith did not lessen his 
patriotism. He was true, gentle and charitable; 
in fact, more loyal than many who knew not 
Christ. His popularity with his imperial associates 
enabled him frequently to protect those Christians 
who only dared to worship in the caverns of the 
catacombs. 

His influence brought many of the pagan 
offlcers to a knowledge of the truth. The Emperor, 
learning that Marcellinus and Marcus, friends of 
Sebastian, had accepted Christ, condemned them 
to torture. Having borne their trials without 
wavering, they were about to be executed when 
their parents interfered, beseeching them to 
recant, yet they rested firm in their faith, and many 

29 



SAINT SEBASTIAN 

that witnessed their devotion to Christianity and 
who heard Sebastian speak, were also converted 
and baptized. 

Sebastian, when asked by the Emperor to 
renounce his beHef and his association with the 
followers of the Nazarene, answered that he had 
for all time forsaken the pagan gods and intended 
to cling to Christ. 

Diocletian in his anger would hear no more, 
and ordered that Sebastian be bound to a stake, 
on which was inscribed : 

"Sebastian is only guilty of being a Christian." 

He was then pierced with arrows and left for 
dead. In the night Irene, the widow of one of 
his companions, came to take the body away. 
Sebastian still breathed, and with care in a few 
hours was restored to life. Diocletian, hearing 
of it, ordered him to be beaten to death in the 
arena. Lucina, a Christian woman, recovered 
his body, had it buried in the catacombs, and 
thenceforth he became Saint Sebastian, who died 
for the faith. 

"And this," said Ricardo, "is another effigy 
I care to make — Saint Anthony of Padua. It is 
a beautiful subject and it sells well, an important 
consideration for me. I will give you some 
account of that saint, to whom the majority of the 
devout of the Church come constantly in earnest 

30 



JOUFFE 

prayer, and who, it is believed, always prevail 
in the end, if they have faith." 

Saint Anthony of Padua, as he was afterwards 
known, was born at Lisbon, Portugal, on the 15th 
of August, 1 195. It was predicted on the day 
of his birth that he was destined to give to the 
world the greatest example of piety and virtue. 
He was the first born son of Martin de Bouillon. 
When he was baptized he received the name of 
Ferdinand de Bouillon. In his very childhood 
he was set apart by his mother for the life of a 
recluse, and at an early age received the holy 
name of Anthony of Padua. The baptismal font 
at which he was christened has been guarded as 
a sacred object. The palace where he was born 
was bequeathed to the church. His mother 
educated him in the most religious manner, and 
when he left her immediate care he was placed 
under the tutelage of the canons of the Church 
at Lisbon. All this time he had the benefit of 
his father's counsel. He was fond of the priests, 
and respected age. He again had before him a 
choice of occupation for Hfe, a career of arms 
or of religion. He decided to serve in the church, 
which ennobled his life of usefulness and sanctity. 
He left the palace of his family, his fortune, all 
the world promised him, and entered into a 
monastery. 

As in this figure, he is always represented with 

31 



THE BAMBINO 

a child in arms. One evening in the environs 
of Limoges, in France, he was kneeUng in prayer 
at the Chateau Neuf, when in a bhnding Hght the 
infant Jesus appeared to him and sat in his arms. 
He is said to have performed many miracles. 
He is believed by the devout to cure all ills, save 
from shipwreck, deliver captives, and, above all, 
to find lost objects and restore them to those who 
implore him in faith. 

Ricardo, after showing us his work on the 
Bambino, told us its story. He had spent three 
years in Rome modeling and studying sculpture. 
He often visited in those days the Church of 
Ara-Coeli. There he copied the Bambino and, 
after realizing its importance, he decided to apply 
himself to carving sacred figures in wood. The 
legend is, that the Bambino was carved by a 
pilgrim out of the trees from the Mount of Olives. 
The pilgrim, it is said, fell asleep over his work, 
and while he was unconscious Saint Luke painted 
it. It was blessed by heaven. At one time it 
w^as always conducted to suffering children in 
a gorgeous coach that belonged to the Pope. It is 
related that during some years the Bambino 
received larger fees than any physician in Rome. 

Holding up this specim.en of his work, he gave 
us some idea of his own faith in that effigy. With 
great earnestness he said : ''When once the bishop 
of the diocese has blessed one of these Bambinos 

32 



JOLIFFE 

just think how many suffering children may be 
relieved and saved by the faith of their parents ! 
What a blessing to families who have sufficient 
faith !" 

SAINT CECILIA. 

"I am pleased to see that you admire my Saint 
Cecilia. She is supposed to have been born in 
the third century A. D., at Rome. She was a 
noble lady who lived in the reign of Alexander 
Severus. Her parents first secretly professed 
Christianity and trained her to carry the Gospel 
about her person, under her robe. Having 
great musical talent, she employed it in the praise 
of God. At 1 6 years of age her parents 
compelled her to marry Valerian, who respected 
her devotion to the church, and also became a 
Christian. 

"Almachius, a prefect of Rome, who was in 
power during the absence of the Emperor 
Alexander Severus, with his heathen prejudices, 
sent for Ce^cilia and her husband and commanded 
them to renounce Christianity. When they did 
not obey Almachius ordered Valerian to be 
executed, and again sent for Cecilia and ordered 
her to be tortured. She remained firm in her 
Christian convictions, and after wounds inflicted 
by the executioner, she expired, a martyr. I 
believe, my kind, sir, that I have now given you at 

33 



RICARDO DEPARTS 

least the traditions we possess of the work 
executed by myself and son for the church." 

When Ricardo had shown and explained all 
the sculptured pieces in his wagon, Berlodina 
remarked : "Well, my man, your work is fine ; it 
may be called impressive in execution." I 
remember to have seen in the south of Spain a 
carved wooden, painted figure of the mother of 
Christ. It was so hideous that I stopped near 
it on the highway to observe for a while what 
impression it would have on the devout who 
might pass that way. Although many knew it 
was there, few knelt before it. At last a man, 
evidently a connoisseur, stopped with a friend 
and criticised the work. Turning to me, he said 
seriously : "I fear that the sculptor who produced 
that grotesque representation of divinity will be 
settled with when he asks admission of Saint 
Peter." After seeing all the carved images and 
having concluded our conversation, the little 
family took some nourishment and repose. 

When Ricardo was about to resume his 
journey, we thanked him for the pleasure and 
entertainment it had afforded us to meet him thus 
casually on the hilltop. We mentioned our 
intention of sojourning some time at Cagnes 
during November and giving him our address, 
not forgetting to caress the dog, Nico, we wished 
them godspeed and they commenced their descent 
of the hill. 

34 



CHAPTER VI. 
LADY NOLINSFORD 

Among other entertainments we were invited 
by Lady Nolinsford one afternoon to a private 
performance at her villa, where, comfortably 
seated under the date-palm trees in her garden, 
we saw the gypsy girls dancing to the sprightly 
music of the dark-eyed zigans who accompanied 
them on mandolins and tambourines. Especially 
did we enjoy the more serious and artistic 
performance of the two gypsy soloists, CoraUe 
and Marita, who played most sympathetically on 
their violins. Some of the pieces were thrilling. 
They certainly had great skill. It was an 
amusing entertainment throughout; the poodle 
dogs under Rinaldo's son, Gerbo, evidently were 
on their good behavior. They expected a reward, 
and as they walked about almost as erect as storks 
they seemed to say : "Don't forget us." 

Adelia's important and lucrative occupation at 
the camp did not often permit her appearance in 
society. This afternoon they gave a representation 
of a gypsy betrothal. Gerbo, Rinaldo's son, 
assisted. It was rather a noisy affair, giving a 
rude exhibition of the gypsy manner of 
carousing and wasting one's possessions and by 



A GYPSY BETROTHAL 

frivolous conduct on an occasion held to be very- 
sacred by most civilized people. The bride and 
groom were seated for a while, separated by a 
gauze veil. The bride's friends had painted her 
face white and carmine. After frolicking around 
the victims, they pelted them with quantities of 
bonbons, which were supplied by the lady of 
the house. Fortunately this was only intended 
to give some idea of the serious frolic, which, 
on the occasion of a real marriage, lasts at least 
three days, in which time the groom is heavily 
taxed for the entertainment of his guests, who 
are supposed sometimes to regret that their turn 
has not yet come, although the groom is often 
heard on such occasions to cry out: ^'Why did 
I ever think of matrimony?" It was amusement 
for those who assisted at such weddings, but the 
happy bridegroom always had to suffer on such 
occasions. 

Gerbo afterwards caused the dogs to perform 
some very astonishing antics. We saw illustrations 
of faith in the confidence of those animals that 
they should be rewarded and afterward in the 
firm belief of Rinaldo, in the result of a breaking 
of a vase of flowers. How earnestly he counted 
the fragments to ascertain whether some 
undertaking would be successful in regard to 
which a lady in the company had consulted him. 
Nothing could change his faith. One might 

36 



JOLIFFE 

readily have supposed that he reUed most on 
professional cunning, for that is generally a 
gypsy's character. The entertainment has not 
yet terminated. Lady Nolinsford having 
frequently seen AdeHa's horse at the 
encampment, was aware of Joliffe's admiration of 
her. She also appreciated his wonderful 
discernment of character and his amusing manner 
of expressing his likes and dislikes. She therefore 
proposed for the occasion to drape with colored 
muslin a little pavilion at the back of her garden. 
Joliffe had been attached to a tree some distance 
from the fence, on account of his habit of pawing 
the ground and turning it up. Sure enough, when 
Nicolas went to get him he found that he had 
exposed to view several corroded bronze coins of 
the third century A. D., evidently left there by 
the Romans, who had been quartered in Grasse 
during their invasion. This was quite a surprise 
for Nicolas, who, however, after gathering up 
the few coins, led the horse to the pavilion. The 
guests were invited one after another to be 
presented to the horse, the hostess and I only 
understanding that. As the guests were 
presented by Nicolas to the horse's highness they 
were received with different degrees of courtesy. 
Joliffe would first look each one in the face, as 
if for a moment studying their countenances. 
To some he would be very gracious and act 

37 



NICOLAS 

approvingly, reaching forward his head in a 
friendly manner to them, while to others he would 
act almost discourteously, turning away or 
throwing up his head and even snorting. The 
amusement passed off good naturedly. Everyone 
seemed benefited by a good laugh. Nicolas 
had also enjoyed the frolic. He was daily two 
hours with Lady Nolinsford's son, Arthur, she 
having engaged him to converse in Spanish with 
him. This at the same time was an advantage 
for Nicolas, as then he often had the opportunity 
of improving his knowledge of the English 
language, which he already read with facility. 
In fact, while he was waiting with Joliffe at 
the tree he employed his time by studying an 
English grammar. 



.18 



CHAPTER VII. 

bkrlodina's history of grasse. 

A few evenings after, Berlodlna gave me the 
following concise account of the history of 
Grasse : "I perhaps have chosen this place as 
adapted to my profession of botanist, realizing 
that the soil has been enriched by the bones of 
several generations of Romans. In proof of this 
we find traditions, archives and souvenirs in the 
ruins of at least two temples, one of Jupiter 
Ammon and some traces of vaults of another near 
to the ancient paved way. The latter is said 
to have been dedicated to Diana. Money has 
been unearthed, as was done by Joliffe on 
Monday. Inscribed tombstones have also been 
found, proving the Roman occupation. A faithful 
history of Grasse should record numerous periods 
of war. In the twelfth century Grasse rivaled the 
greatest cities of the south of France, in the 
manufacture of fine leather, soap and olive oil. 

Grasse then followed tranquilly its commercial 
occupation ; the high position above the sea often 
saved it from the attack of the Saracens and 
from Moorish depredators. It is wonderful how 
Grasse sustained the frequent contributions of 
war levied by different military contingents. Very 

31 



HISTORY OF GRASSE 

large sums had to be paid on two occasions, 
armies even quartered themselves weeks and 
months at a time, devastating and robbing the 
city. In the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth 
centuries Grasse passed through many 
vicissitudes, years of political complications with 
principalities which claimed its alHance in times of 
war. After that a period of liberty was enjoyed; 
there was no allegiance either to bishop or to 
seigneurs ; God alone was ruler of Grasse. 

''Antibes envied that city on the hill, for it 
knew not the same freedom. It is interesting 
to remark that houses where tribunals were held 
during the revolution, hospitals also, and even 
monasteries, through the progressive industry of 
Grasse, have become laboratories where enormous 
quantities of perfumes are distilled and the odors 
of flowers are extracted and sold in all quarters of 
the earth. 



46 



CHAPTER VIII. 

GRASSK — CLIMATE AND VIEW. 

When I am alone I often occupy myself in 
looking from my window. I enjoy looking at the 
fruitful groves on the Riviera at a season when 
in northern sections of Europe man is almost 
perishing with the cold. I appreciate the 
blessing of this lovely climate and recollect with 
pleasure journeys of which I am reminded in 
other sunny lands. 

Although the days are charming, the 
temperature until evening is like summer in more 
northern latitudes, yet for an hour or two after the 
sun goes down the air from the snow-covered 
Basses-Alpes is chilled. 

Our valet, Gaston, always seeking our comfort 
and ever contented when he can please us, goes 
out of an afternoon in the pine forests and gathers 
the husky cones, known in that district as 
pommes-de-pins, literally pineapples. They are 
dry, resinous, pyramidal burrs on each section 
or leaf of which is attached a small seed or grain, 
which, when sprinkled on little sweet cakes, gives 
them a flavor of almonds. They resemble 
macaroons. With a quantity of these burrs in the 



ST. MARGUERITE AND ST. HONORAT 

chill of the evening, Gaston makes a blazing, 
cheerful fire, which we enjoy while we attend to 
our correspondence. 

From our higher altitude at night we look down 
on a city by the sea. The lights in the villas that 
cling to the surrounding hills resemble the 
flickering lanterns or the fire towers of the twelfth 
century. We also see occasional lights out on 
the fair islands of St. Marguerite and St. Honorat, 
opposite the pine grove of Cannes, the winter 
home of the Britons and Muscovites. As I close 
my books and look out at midnight the winter 
guests slumber soundly and contentedly, for those 
faithful island lights have announced that "all is 
well!" The thorough rest of this lovely retreat 
fits man for each moral exercise beyond the city 
and the gardens of the industrious distillers of 
perfumes. 

GRASSE — PARROT. 

Gaston was invariably kind and attentive. 
The parrot belonging to Berlodina, the proprietor 
of the villa, shared in the benefits Gaston 
conferred on all to whom his services were due. 
When of an afternoon he climbed among the pine 
trees on the upper hills to get material for our 
evening fires, he would gather many of the tasty 
little seeds which cling to the inside of the burrs, 
and when Polly saw Gaston coming with them 

42 



JOIvIFFE 

she would cry out: "Alo, Gaston," and would 
eat them with evident satisfaction. One evening, 
just after sunset, there came down the pouring 
rain, accompanied by vivid lightning and terrible 
peals of thunder. Polly, left alone on the 
veranda, began to scream hideously. Gaston 
quickly went and tenderly placed the bird in its 
wooden cage, saying: "Don't be afraid, Polly; 
there's no danger for you." Believing in Gaston, 
the parrot immediately became quiet. That was 
faith ! 

The next afternoon Gaston returned with a 
new acquisition for our household. He had been 
to the cavern of a superstitious old woman, whom 
we had already visited, and when he had spoken 
of the frightful storms of the evening before, the 
pious old woman brought out a painted and gilded 
candle which had been blessed by a priest; she 
assured Gaston it would protect those who 
believing kept it burning during the continuance 
of a thunderstorm. Gaston brought it along and 
said that at least it was interesting as an object 
of faith. . 

THE STORY OF ADEUA'S UFE. 

After meeting Adelia several times she proved 
to be very agreeable. Our admiration of each 
other was mutual. She accepted our invitation 
and came occasionally to our villa, although she 

43 



THE MIRACULOUS SHRINE 

always feared that she might intrude, and 
proposed to leave long before we had seen enough 
of her. We urged her to remain and often while 
taking tea she opened her heart to us. ^'I have 
long desired," said she, "to meet some refined 
people who might interest themselves in my 
history. I shall also some day wish to speak to 
you of a miraculous shrine, where I am told I 
may be cured of lameness in my knee." We 
replied to her, encouraging her to relate the 
events of her life. "From many curious facts you 
have given us, Adelia, in our short acquaintance, 
we feel assured that your life has been one of 
remarkable interest. We do hope that it will be 
your pleasure to give us some more detailed 
account of your career." 

Adelia replied, after a moment's reflection : "I 
cannot hesitate to relate to you the more 
interesting incidents of my peculiar life. 



44 



CHAPTER IX. 
adelia's story. 

"I am a gypsy, my parents were of Bucharest, 
in Roumania. They, Hke all our people, being 
wanderers, I was born in the vicinity of 
Perpignan, in the south of France. The tribe with 
which my parents traveled had become great 
depredators in the neighborhood of Barcelona, 
in Spain. Our camp was near by. We would 
enter the city on a holiday. The men would 
attract the attention of the people in the public 
places, usually in front of the churches. While 
the men danced and amused those who gathered 
round, the gypsy women were stealing everything 
they could lay their hands on in the city. Families 
that had been robbed then formed a vigilance 
guard to patrol the environs of the city and to 
drive away the gypsies. The citizens of Barcelona 
were so exasperated that they did actually 
seriously wound several of our men. My parents 
disappeared, nor did they ever come after me 
again. I was separated from them at Gerona. 
I escaped into France. While my parents lived 
I naturally knew only of the superstitions of our 
wandering race. I was taught to believe in 
Alako and to have faith in the influence of the 

45 



ADEUA AS DAIRY MAID 

moon at certain phases, I have even heard since 
that many civilized people think that it has an 
influence on the clouds that give rain, or on 
the growth of the hair. I had no more religious 
education when I came into France than the moral 
code in which the gypsies had instructed 
me. As soon as I was freed from the restraint of 
my gypsy connection, I began to see everybody 
going into the churches ; I followed, led only by 
curiosity. One church that I entered in Perpignan 
was very richly decorated. I had only been 
looking about me for fifteen minutes when I saw 
a certain Madam.e Fauchon, who had known me 
when in the previous year we camped near by. 

"She recognized me immediately and asked 
why I was alone. The result of our meeting was 
that she took m.e with her to her inn and 
presented me to Madame Deschamps, who, while 
visiting relations, was also looking for a young 
maid for her dairy farm. I soon accepted the 
offer of a temporary home. The next morning 
we left Perpignan by rail, taking the route by 
Toulouse, Bordeaux and Nantes to Quimperle, in 
Brittany. I rested a few days, then Madame 
Deschamps seemed to think the church more 
important than the harvest fields, where they 
intended me to rake and bind, or at least give a 
hand. So she took me to the parish church and 
to the priest. There I received my first religious 



JOLIFFE 

instruction, which was Roman CathoHc. Had 
they been Baptists or Methodists or any other 
denomination I should have wilHngly learned 
either creed just the same, so little idea had I 
of any religion, I might have accepted the 
Mormon faith and perhaps would have in time 
become one of the wives of their congregation. I 
listened eagerly to the counsels of the priests, 
and earnestly sought to do as they taught me, 
to stand up, to sit down and bow, to cross myself, 
though afterwards I learned of a less spectacular 
form of worship. 

"When I was fifteen years of age my little 
companions of the village depended on me for 
their entertainment. I was the chief spirit in all 
their infantile play. We used to try our skill at 
the Roman game of Astragalus, in Brittany known 
as "Le jeu des Osselets," the game of instep 
bones. This amused them, but the most attractive 
pastime for them was the consultation of 
cards by turning them over. Yes, when I was 
sixteen years of age we used to sit in a shady 
grove of a summer evening, on returning from 
the fields, when I would read the playing cards 
to tell the other girls their fortunes. I did it for 
amusement, but I soon perceived that they had 
too much faith in my nonsensical predictions. 
Ah, since then, although fortune telling has 
become my profession, I have learned to value true 

47 



TRUE FAITM 

faith. From the recollection of my childhood 
days I know that the desire for religious 
instruction was innate in me. As soon as the 
priests had shown me their idea of worship I 
longed to retire from my companions and pray. I 
had purchased a card with a lithographic picture 
of the Saviour, with His hands holding His red 
heart on the outside of His body at His waist. I 
soon found a retreat in the woods at a great 
hollow oak tree. I vv^ould go there at the break o£ 
day. I then thought I Avas alone with God ! On 
the way I always gathered wild flowers with 
which to decorate my altar, the centre piece of 
w^hich was the picture with the sacred red heart. 
The birds of the forest gave the music while I 
prayed, yet I never felt that I was being heard, as 
I do now; I did not then know that God is 
everywhere around us, I had been taught to reach 
him through pictures or statues. I was, however, 
in earnest, and later I may tell you how I 
learned and found the narrow way. After these 
moments of devotion I went to the cows and to 
the fields, and came again at evening to entertain 
the children. They were made happy, and even 
the cottagers would gather round to see me deftly 
turn those cards, some of them asking to learn a 
word for themselves. Little as I thought of my 
own accomplishment, it attracted the attention of 
an old woman, Celestine Noirier, a fortune teller. 



JOUFFE 

She had watched my proficienc}-, and finally asked 
me to make some arrangement at the farm, so 
that I might come to her of an afternoon. She 
offered me good terms, and after I had an 
understanding with Madame Deschamps, I 
accepted Celestine's proposition on the condition 
that I might still continue to attend to my cattle 
morning and evening at the farm and return with 
them at sundown. She employed me from ten 
till four in the day. At first my duty was to 
receive people at her cabin. She professed to 
give customers a foreknowledge of their 
prospects in life. I noticed that women were her 
principal clients and I observed that Madame 
Noirier understood that they all wanted to know 
what their matrimonial prospects were. She 
therefore turned up black or red names at will, 
and almost always sent the fools away with the 
hope and promises of good fortune. 

"Celestine taught me that when I used the 
cards in telling fortunes I should have a pack 
containing seventy-eight, for then I could find 
more husbands for the anxious women. I soon 
became such an expert that one Rinaldo, the 
master of a strolling gypsy combination, heard of 
me, and on my returning one morning early from 
driving the cattle to pasture, he accosted me and 
after some conversation made me a generous 
proposition. He offered to care for me, give me 

49 



ADELIA JOINS GYPSIES 

a share in my receipts, a wagon to myself to 
live in and to serve as a fortune-telling saloon, 
and I was to have all this if I would join his 
company for two years, with the right of renewal 
on my part. After some consideration and 
consultation with Madame Deschamps at the farm 
I agreed to commence with him in the ensuing 
autumn, which would allow me to finish my farm 
engagement and enable me to renew my toilet, 
for I had begun to ask my looking glass how I 
looked. 

"Rinaldo seemed to be pleased with my olive 
brown complexion, and with my dark, penetrating 
eyes, which he often said looked out effectively 
from beneath my heavy brows. 

"My life continued happy enough with Madame 
Deschamps on the farm. It was only human 
nature that prompted me to better my condition. 
In October, five months after I first saw Rinaldo, 
I joined his company at Nantes. Encamping 
near different cities two or three weeks or a 
month at a time, we moved about France. 

"I gave satisfaction not only to the people who 
came to have their fortunes told, but Rinaldo 
was delighted with the result of my services. 
Two years ago we were at the fair at Limoges. 
This, above all other places, was the most 
profitable for our encampment; it was just 
adapted for gypsies to drive a lively business. 

50 



JOLIFFE 

All were curious to see us, a greater number than 
ever were consulting me about their prospects of 
marriage and many were the demands of the 
mirror of fortune. 

"As the fair continued during six weeks, 
Rinaldo in that time never thought of moving. 
In fact we remained there two months. In hours 
of leisure I often visited every section of the fair. 
There were merry-go-rounds, one could ride on 
a horse or a swan or a camel or a pig, or in a 
pitching and rolling boat, with music and ribbons 
galore; endless variety of booths, revolving 
pyramids of porcelain to be won, if the buyer had 
the fortunate number. The foolish people would 
stand there for an hour, each one had faith that 
soon his number would turn up. Sometimes it 
did, but many went away without a prize, and 
they lost faith in that wheel. 

"In a cozy nook a merchant of gingerbread 
stood daily on a pedestal before his barrow, 
playing fisherman, as they do after the collation 
at a wedding in Japan. He had a limber reed 
rod, from the end of which a large piece of 
gingerbread, attached to a fine wire, was dangled 
before the faces of those who cared to join in 
the amusement, while the boys, with open mouths, 
strove to bite at the sweet bait. All this was 
to attract the passers-by. In case of success a 
large cake was awarded to the lucky boy, while 

51 



ADELIA MEETS JOUFFE 

the unsuccessful lads had their appetites so 
whetted that sooner or later they obtained a piece 
by purchasing it. 

"There were shooting galleries with curious 
devices, a penny for five chances to shoot down 
a wooden ball, balanced on a jet of water rising 
from a fountain, or knock down a grotesque 
figure or wound a paper crow, or to ring a bell. 
Booths also where for a few sous photographs 
were to be taken, that they might remember 
twenty years later how they looked at the fair. 

''There were hot stoves, men dressed cap and 
apron in white, baking waffles, thin as cambric 
and whitened with the lightest dust of sugar. 

''My love for animals led me several times to a 
market in the fair, where I had seen a horse. 
The third time that I was examining him I had 
in my hand a long strip of paper, on which were 
attached a dozen large macaroons. The horse 
had an eye on them. At first he reached out his 
head and sniffed at them, then he gave me a 
hint by pulling at my sleeve with his lips. I did 
not keep him waiting long, but quickly showed 
him that I understood, and one after another of 
my macaroons were freely given to the horse. 

"After that whenever I went that way I was 
welcome. The pleasure of seeing the horse's 
contentment tempted me several times to repeat 
my generosity. By degrees we became friends. In 

52 



JOUFFE 

the two years which had elapsed I had earned 
and put aside so much money that I could afford 
to buy many things which pleased my fancy. I 
became better acquainted with the horse, so 
finally I thought we would suit one another and 
I bought him. He was already named Joliffe, so 
he has continued to be Joliffe to me. 

*'A young man of the Pyrenees who recently 
had been accustomed to the care of horses, and 
who was then in attendance, proposed to me that 
he should continue in the service of the horse. 
He stated that he had cared for Calliope, the 
mother of Joliffe, before the colt was born. 
Having known Joliffe every hour of his life, he 
naturally would feel a separation keenly. 

"After listening to the applicant and regarding 
him for some moments, I questioned him. 'Who 
are you, young man? You appear to be more 
fitted for some professional occupation than to 
care for a horse.' Without the slightest 
hesitation, and with frankness, he replied : 'I am 
Nicolas Foriere. I have had a moderate education. 
When employed at the Museum of Natural 
History at the Garden of Plants at Paris, I took 
advantage of every moment of leisure and 
improved my store of knowledge by studying the 
anatomy of the extinct and other animals in that 
collection. In the botanical section I daily 
learned something among the plants and 

53 



NICOLAS LEARNS SPANISH 

whenever I could go out I spent a part of my time 
among the dealers in second-hand books on the 
quays along the Seine. However, being possessed 
of very limited resources, I was compelled 
to accept employment offered me with a Spanish 
veterinary surgeon and dealer in horses, who 
when the electric railways commenced to serve 
in Paris, attended a sale of horses that were 
then put aside. I went v/ith that man to Saragossa, 
in Spain, and during a few months by 
diligent application at night school I acquired a 
very thorough knowledge of the Spanish language 
and received a certificate for my efficiency. 
On every occasion I sought to instruct myself, 
yet always had a longing for my native land, and 
finding an employer coming to Limoges, I 
returned with him to France. Now that I have 
been so fortunate in meeting you, Madame, I 
feel already assured, or at least hope, that JoHffe 
and I will continue to be happy together.' 

"The longer I heard Nicolas speak the more I 
was satisfied. His voice was very sympathetic. 
It was therefore arranged that in consideration 
of services to Rinaldo, Nicolas was engaged, yet 
it was clearly understood that he was in my 
employ. So, you see, I am in possession of Joliffe, 
and I find that I have secured a faithful employe 
and a friend in Nicolas. 

"The country people did not need to buy animals 

54 



JOUFFE 

in this way at the fair. There were many 
games of chance at the booths. By lottery one 
might win a dog, or a goat, or a rabbit, or a duck, 
and a large proportion of the pleasure seekers 
preferred that system. 



55 



CHAPTER X. 
adelia's story-— the charlatan. 

Of all the attractive features about the fair 
grounds were the old-times charlatans. There 
were two at Limoges, and they were rivals. One 
was Ploermel ; he had followed in the footsteps 
of Conte, whom, I am sure, some of you must 
have seen before the Madeleine, at Paris, or on 
the Place St. Sulpice. He was dressed in armor 
like a Roman warrior, with a silver and brass 
helmet. 

He seemed to think himself a hero as he 
stood on the front platform of his highly 
ornamented coach. His weapons, as he often 
stated, were lead pencils. He misapplied the 
quotation a little, when he said, ''The pen is 
mightier than the sword." He had blacks and reds 
and blues. He would pound with the points of the 
pencils on the little table established on the dasher 
before him. His principal sales were of the black 
pencils, and the show of their wonderful quality 
of endurance increased their sales. Occasionally 
he wrote in a fine hand, or boldly and broadly on 
sheets of stiff paper. He made hasty designs, 
which he handed to his employe, a pretty young 

56 



JOLIFFE 

woman, dressed as Melpomene. She stood 
beside him on such occasions with a hunter's horn 
over her shoulder, she handed the sketches down 
to another attendant, a grotesquely costumed 
hunchback, who with many grimaces and jokes 
distributed them to such of the audience as were 
fortunate enough to come near enough to him to 
secure them. The fair Melpomene at intervals 
contributed calls on her horn, while the 
charlatan was supplying the eager customers. 

Often at the same moment on the other side of 
the fair grounds one Minotti was dressed as a 
Aesculapius. A true charlatan was he, a quack, 
a fraud. He had drops which he promised 
would instantly relieve toothache. Naturally he 
found many customers. His mode of operating 
was to have a number of confederates in the 
audience, who, one after another, in reply to 
Minotti's appeals for sufferers, came up on his 
chariot, feigning to be in great pain. After the 
application of a few drops they would go away, 
pretending to be relieved. 

He also offered to remove spots and stains 
from all woolen garments, and did really sell 
great quantities of bottles of his magic 
preparation. In fact, at moments the people 
contended with one another to get possession of a 
vial, when Minotti announced that they were the 
only ones left of the quantity he had brought with 

57 



THE CHARLATAN 

him. However, the next day found him at 
another part of the fair grounds, repeating the 
same business and history. Many of the ignorant 
people who bought these nostrums had misplaced 
their faith ; they believed in what appeared to be 
true to their eyes. The faith sees with the soul. 



58 



CHAPTER XI. 

ADKUA'S story — SALVATION ARMY. 

"In all this fair there was everything to amuse 
the multitude or gain money throughout the 
booths ; the question of religion also entered there. 

"In the midst of all this merriment there was 
a wonderful religious invasion in France. The 
Salvation Army had marched on to the field of 
mirth and thoughtlessness. Men and women in 
its ranks were appealing to the ignorant and the 
careless, asking them to come and hear of Christ. 
I never thought to see such an aggressive religious 
movement succeed or even be tolerated in this 
gathering of seekers of amusement; yet the 
multitude listened, even those that were far away 
could hear that volume of voices, as they sang 
the praises of their Redeemer. They asked one 
another what it was, and they also drew near. 
Faith received many into its ranks, for they 
became interested in the peculiar manner in which 
they were appealed to. By degrees the audiences 
became larger. Men and women that had never 
thought of God believed and joined the army of 
the evangelists. The message of Christ, brought 
thus to them, became their faith. 

"Sometimes for a few minutes I listened to 

59 



SALVATION ARMY 

their preachers whom they called officers of their 
army. Whenever I went to their meetings I found 
Nicolas there. He told me afterward that he not 
only listened, but was moved by their fervor, and 
before we left Limoges he had accepted Christ 
as his hope and friend. One evening when we 
were both at their tent an earnest man quoted 
from the Bible. I heard him recite from St. 
Paul's epistles, and from the Acts of the Apostles : 
'And there was the youth of Lystra, a cripple 
from his birth, who, when Paul saw that he had 
faith, he commanded him to stand up on his feet, 
and he leaped and walked.' *My friends,' said 
the preacher, 'do you not daily see those who have 
been crippled by sin, listen here to the invitation 
of Christ, and once they have accepted the faith 
do you not see them leaping for joy? Come, 
then, and taste and see and we shall cry out with 
the Apostle: Xo! the gods have come down to 
us in the likeness of men.'" (i) Conscripts, 
rejoicing in the new faith, soon called upon their 
companions to come and see what pleasure was 
in store for them, thus their ranks were 
augmented. Hundreds listened and happily 
commenced a new life, rejoicing in their simple 
faith. It was in every sense a work of charity. 
Large tenement houses were afterward taken 
in Paris. The poor were lodged and nourished 

' (1) ACTS XIV, 8. 



JOUFFE 

by that Army. Eventually the municipal 
authorities recognized the good these strange 
evangelists were doing, and they were not 
permitted to be annoyed, as they had been in some 
countries. 

"On account of their peculiar manner of 
worship the vulgar called them 'L'Armee de 
Chahut.' One innovation which they made was 
called 'the joyous coffee.' For a few centimes 
they furnished those who joined them in their 
religious singing with a cup of tea or of coffee, 
with plain cakes, and, eating and drinking, they 
sang together. This was the ingenious method 
by which they recruited and popularized their 
system of evangelization. 

"During the fair at Limoges I noticed that a 
large proportion of the devout women carried 
in their bosoms small medallions in enamel of 
Saint Martial, the patron saint, who had first 
preached the Gospel to the Romans of Limoges, 
while their pagan temples were still thronged with 
idolatrous worshipers. Though I had until then 
few opportunities of education, I had an innate 
admiration of fine art. I did not fail to be 
interested in the wonderful enamels of the city 
where we were stopping. I saw the works of 
Noel Laudin, Leonard Limousin, Pierre Raymond 
and the Courtays. My revenue even afforded 
me the means to secure several subjects by 
Pierre Raymond. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CATHEDRAL OF SAINT ETIENNE AND 
BASILICA DU SACRE CCEUR. 

"At that time wherever we encamped for 
awhile, I always went out of curiosity to the 
principal church. 

"Before we m.oved away from Limoges I 
found the time in early mornings to stroll into 
the Cathedral of Saint Etiehne. I was attracted 
by some incongruous decorations. Beneath the 
organ loft six has reliefs, representing the labors 
of Hercules, relics of the times when the 
Limousins had not yet heard of the true God. 
This interested me and seemed strange, yet I was 
impressed by the earnest evidences of faith, which 
I always witnessed in the devotions of people 
that there knelt down and committed themselves 
to the care of their divine Master in the first 
hours of the day. How beautiful their faith! 

"You have Hstened attentively to my narrative 
of my sojourn of Limoges. You have asked me 
why I have not spoken of Paris. We have also 
been in that city, but there are so many 
restrictions there for such people as we that 
Rinaldo does not find it profitable. Eighteen 
months ago we attended the fair at Saint Cloud. 



JOUFFE 

The only place we could find for our encampment 
was on the east side of the old moat. Although 
we were close to the merry life of that gay 
market of pleasure it was not convenient for 
the people to come to us. Therefore we have 
not thought it worth while to return there. 

adklia's story. 

"The municipality of Paris also in recent years 
has made stringent regulations in regard to 
exhibition of second-sight readers and divination 
by cards. 

"I must speak to you, however, of one 
reminiscence which I have guarded in my heart 
since I was last in that palatial metropolis. It 
was the view of the Boulevard des Batignolles 
of the oval, cone-shaped domes of Notre Dame 
du Sacre-Coeur, on the heights of Montmartre. 
I find its position grand and with beautiful 
sentiment. Its walls, its towers, its domes seem 
to reach the sky. On that hilltop above the 
atmosphere and frivolity of the great city the 
spires of that superb house of God point up to 
the realm where the Master sits in supreme 
power. They seem to say to all who care to come 
and pray : 'Thy Redeemer is there, waiting to 
hear and to bless those who come in faith.' 



CHAPTER XIII. 

JOI.IFFE AND RINALDO. 
"1 still want to speak to you of my dear horse. 
After leaving Limoges I soon found out how 
wonderfuly Joliffe understood character. I 
sometimes thought that he was a greater diviner 
than I, although I am professional. On account 
of his fine appearance women generally would 
admire him. They would offer him sweets and 
would try to caress him. At least one-third of 
these proffered attentions were resented by 
Joliffe. Through his perspicacity those who 
were of amiable disposition were usually well 
received. He seemed to look into their thoughts 
with his great, beautiful eyes. So great was his 
judgment that I soon made it a rule to have him 
near me when visitors applied for their fortunes 
to be told. His manner generally guided me in 
my estimation, at least as to the amiability of 
my cHents. It was difficult to understand his Hkes 

ADKLIA'S story — JOLIFFK. 
and dislikes. Since we had been here at Grasse 
one young English girl has found much 
amusement in coming to see us. She has often 
brought her acquaintances. Strange to say, 
although she is beautiful and has brought JolifiFe 

64 



JOLIFFE 

biscuit and other tasty things, he never will be 
friendly with her, whilst several of her friends 
whom she brought have received pleasant 
recognition from him. 

"There is one visitor who always speaks 
gently to JoHffe. Whenever he comes near the 
encampment Joliffe will neigh and paw the 
ground until that man approaches him, when he 
Vv'ill m.anifest his pleasure by raising his head 
and even pressing his nose on the arm of his 
friend. That favorite is your Berlodina ! After 
all, I have an idea that I have done well to 
bestow my affection on animals. Six months 
after I had purchased Joliffe my admiration of 
two poodle dogs caused me to buy them. You 
saw them the other day ; one is brown, the other 
is black. 

*'My life with Rinaldo's company went on 
very smoothly during two years. It perhaps, 
has been my gypsy blood, dark eyes and 
complexion which have attracted women 
particularly to me. 

"When in Angouleme I was taught to color 
little cards, which I now sometimes give to 
young women whom I notice are inclined to 
matrimony. Always the same thought comes 
back to me. It is so remarkable that the fair sex 
will look into the future through our often- 
handled cards. 

65 



ADELIA'S STORY—RINALDO 

"Rinaldo wanted me to sell to such clients 
so-called magic love powders, made of sweetened 
flour, flavored with caraway seeds. This I 
firmly refused to do. I felt satisfied when I 
saw them go away with the little souvenirs I had 
given them of my own handiwork. Rinaldo also 
desired that I should pretend to have knowledge 
of the stars. It is true that at one time the 
revolution of the constellations had been 
considered in combination with the divination 
of fortunes by cards. As I have already proved 
to you, I wished to be honest whilst entertaining. 
I therefore resented any such proposition. I was 
only willing to amuse the people as one does in 
the family circle. My success depended on the 
fact that I could do it in a very professional 
manner. Many a sad heart have I cheered, and 
tried always to send the client away as happy as 
possible. 

''Afterwards making a long stay at Poitiers, 
Madame Poiron interested herself in me. She 
remarked that I had often hours of leisure, and 
recommended me to make small artificial flowers. 
She taught me to put the parts together and to 
give them proper touches of color. With each 
lesson on making flowers she gave me new ideas 
of what she termed 'the true faith,' a faith without 
images. Madame Poiron at first furnished me 
with ready-made petals of lilies of the valley and 



JOLIFFE 

forget-me-nots. To finish my flowers I bought 
spools of fine wire, cut it up in proper lengths, and 
adjusted the parts quite skilfully. I have found 
a ready market for them in packages of twelve 
dozens each at Tours, Blois and Perigueux. 

"In the practice of my profession, unlike other 
gypsy fortune tellers, I never deceive my clients 
by recommending them to do unwise things. I 
deal with them conscientiously. Although 
engaged in a really lucrative occupation and 
constantly meeting amusing incidents, my heart is 
not satisfied. My associates are not congenial, 
except Nicolas. Their ideas are not like mine, 
they do not think as I do, although they are 
all amiable and friendly. I cannot tell you why, 
yet I have never been fully resigned to my 
situation, I have always had a longing for 
education and religious instruction. I have never 
been satisfied, though in a sense comfortable. 



67 



CHAPTER XIV. 
adelia's escapade. 

"A year ago several straggling gypsies passed 
where we were encamped west of Perpignan. 
They spoke to me of having recently seen in 
Spain the tribe to which my parents had been 
attached. I thought it over night and day, and 
could not resist the desire to go a few days into 
Spain and speak with those people who had told 
me where they could be found. Although my 
first contract with Rinaldo had expired already 
ten days he had never alluded to it. Therefore 
knowing that he would object to even so short 
an absence, I determined to say nothing of my 
plans to my associates. I told Nicolas and 
convinced him that it would not be well for him 
to accompany me, and that as soon as I could 
see the tribe of gypsies and get any information of 
my lost parents I would return to the camp. 
Much as Nicolas evidently cared for me, he 
accepted my counsel and did not attempt to go 
with me. 

''With this understanding I gave Joliffe an 
entire rest during two days. We were encamped 
west of Perpignan. I waited at night till all slept 
soundly except my faithful Nicolas, who was 

68 



JOLIFFE 

there with all in order, and on the back of Jolifife 
I sought a few days liberty. Having chosen 
moonlight, we hurried along at a gallop ; at times 
we went more moderately, so that the horse might 
not be over-exerted. Unfortunately near 
morning on the frontier of Spain Joliffe stumbled 
in the darkness on a narrow, rocky part of the 
road. We both went down together. I was 
stunned and was not conscious of the pain which 
I afterwards experienced. In that hour of 
suffering the dear horse looked down at me, 
his tender eyes telling me as well as they could 
how much he deplored our misfortune. To 
better assure me of his sympathy he gently licked 
my hands. 

"The only human friend coming to me at that 
time was one who arrived while I was 
unconscious, and who spoke to me when I became 
aware of what was going on around me. I found 
it impossible to rise. My head was bruised, my 
knee and ankle were dislocated. After a few 
expressions of pain I inquired of the young 
man whom I found standing before me who he 
was. *I am Andre of Gerona, Spain,' said he. 
'I have lived on the frontier three years as a 
stableman. I am very fond of animals. On my 
way to seek employment at Montpelier your 
horse attracted my attention. He evidently loves 
you, he seemed so troubled at seeing you lying 

69 



THE ACCIDENT 

there, so I stopped, hoping I could help you. I 
have already bathed your temples with Spanish 
spirits. I have been petting your horse nearly 
thirty minutes, and, may it please you, madame, 
perhaps I can find with you the service I am 
seeking.' 

"1 replied to him that I needed his services now 
and told him that my man, Nicolas, would never 
give up Joliffe. He also was devoted to him. 

''There I remained until daylight. A priest, 
who had been called to Arles-St. Tech, a village 
near by, to administer the last rites of the church, 
came our way. The priest, seeing how much I 
was injured, after consulting with Andre, 
proceeded to a farm near by and secured other 
assistance. Two young farmers came with an 
improvised litter and removed me to the nearest 
railway station, whence I was taken to 
MontpeHer. JoHffe followed us very knowingly 
to the station Port Bon, where he was placed in 
the baggage wagon, a dispatch having been sent 
to the hospital and one to Nicolas at our 
encampment. When we arrived at Montpelier, 
Andre, who had accompanied the horse, looked 
after him until the arrival of Nicolas, who, of 
course, would take kind care of Jolifife and 
console him until I might be restored and rejoin 
him. I immediately made arrangements for the 
accommodation of the horse and Nicolas, who 

70 



JOI.IFFE 

appeared to be very much alarmed. In his 
anxiety he did not conceal his affection for 
Adelia. 

"The attendants of the hospital of the Faculty 
of Medicine of Montpelier, having been notified, 
I wds carefully moved to the ward intended for 
me. The surgeons at once attended to setting the 
injured parts in place, though, as several hours 
had elapsed, the operation was difficult and 
painful. Doctors and divines visited me daily. 
Among those who took the greatest interest in 
my welfare was Bishop Merillon, of the Roman 
Catholic Church. I understood that he was 
universally loved in the diocese. He frequently 
visited me and conversed with me. He was kind 
and charming. I remember much that he said 
to me. As the words flowed from his mouth, 
they sounded like music. Of course the theme of 
religion was to me a grand harmony. 

ADELIA' S STORY — THE HOSPITAL. 

"He told me of the welfare of the soul. He 
spoke to me of a future Hfe. 'My child/ said 
he, *to be truly pious you should keep your 
conscience clear. To insure that, you should as 
frequently as possible make known all your 
thoughts and actions to the clergyman. So will 
you become faithful.' 

"In all his counsel he recommended reliance 

71 



BISHOP MERILLON'S COUNSEL 

on the intermission of the saints and the 
adoration of the mother of Christ. Strange to 
me were the frequent gifts of little cards with 
colored pictures of what he termed the holy saints. 
He said that I might profit by prayer to them 
and that some day I might meet them in Paradise. 
'Above all,' said he, 'be generous to the Church 
according to your means.' He told me that he 
had been informed of my occupation. He spoke 
of the errors made by astrologers on the birth 
of Louis XHI, and that since that time sensible 
men despised the idea that any such celestial 
influence on the welfare of man could exist in 
Mars, Saturn or Mercury; in fact, in any of the 
planets. There had been many errors bequeathed 
by paganism and by those who worshiped the 
colors of the setting sun. 'It is true,' said he, 
'we have burning candles, gilded vessels and 
sacred pictures, rich in color, in our churches: 
they render the house of God more attractive; 
they are not adored by us, they are only fitting 
decorations of our sacred shrine.' Again he 
reverted to the profession of astrology. He told 
me that long since the church had condemned that 
evil, though charlatans sought to establish some 
mysterious connection between the heavenly 
spheres and mortal man; they did impose on all 
who interviewed them; they had their cunning 
tricks of divination. 



JOUFFE 

" 'The church,' said the bishop, 'decided that 
as the stars could have no influence either on our 
birth or Hfe, that it should be deemed sinful to 
consult them, and that, as no reliance could be 
placed on the assertions of such charlatans, that 
they should be abhorred as impostors, advocates 
of a false faith.' 

"Bishop Merillon also endeavored to interest a 
Syrian woman who occupied the adjoining bed 
to mine. She had come out to France with 
engraved nacre, or mother-of-pearl work. She 
was a native of a village near Baalbek. Her 
ancestors and her parents had still looked to Baal 
for help. Her faith was in that god, whose little 
image, in gilded and lacquered wood, she 
frequently pressed to her lips as she prayed and 
suffered. She would not yield to the bishop's 
entreaties. She gave him to understand that her 
faith was placed and that she was not to be 
moved. 

"Though France is largely Roman Catholic 
I found that there were many protestants in 
Montpelier. The nurse, Clementine, to whose 
care I was consigned, was of that faith. The 
other employes of the hospital spoke of her as 
a heretic; — nevertheless in a few days I found 
what a precious friend I had in despised 
Clementine — she was so regarded by some of the 
nurses, who said she was not of the true church. 



ADELIA LEARNS OF CHRIST 

I realized what I had already learned from the 
bishop. 'By their works ye shall know them/ 
Clementine would remain late in the evenings and 
tell about Christ, whom, she said, was the only 
being that should know all my thoughts. 

"One day she slipped under my pillow a little 
book, which she said was holy. She told me that 
there I could learn about Jesus, and that I would 
find much about faith in its pages. That little 
book was the Bible. 

"I have never forgotten her words : Xa foi, ma 
chere enfant, la foi.' ('Faith, my dear child, 
faith.') I remember well her earnestness, and 
since I have read and re-read that precious book 
I cannot understand why those good people said 
that Clementine was wrong. I saw that great 
was her faith in Christ and in His Word. That 
book has never left me. There I have found 
the truth that brightens my life. There I found 
those comforting words : 'If ye have faith as a 
grain of m.ustard seed ye shall say unto this 
mountain remove hence to yonder place, and it 
shall be moved ; nothing shall be impossible unto 
you.' 

"I have never understood why it is so, yet 
the story which Clementine told me of Christ 
seemed better fitted to my comprehension, so 
beautiful was her assurance that I had only to 
believe, only to have faith in Him, and He, the 

74 



JOLIFFE 

Sovereign Ruler of the universe, would some day 
call me to take my place near His throne ! 
Indeed, Clementine changed the impressions 
given me by the dear bishop, for she taught me 
that God hath said : 'There shall be no mediator 
between God and man, other than my only 
begotten Son/ Christ is God, He shall be your 
mediator, your Saviour. Seek first the influence 
of the Holy Spirit.' 

"I have been thinking about it ever since. I 
have learned to love a Being whom I have never 
seen, said to be the Son of Man, and yet with 
all power to bless and heal. 

"Bishop Merillon several times when speaking 
of my accident told me that to be properly cured, 
as thousands of lame people have been in 
centuries past, I should go to the shrine of 
JUaghetto, in the Alpes Maritimes, and that if I 
would go there in faith in all probability I should 
be healed. 

"All the time I was being nursed in the hospital 
Nicolas kindly cared for Joliffe. He told me 
that the horse daily manifested his sorrow by 
many looks and cunning ways. He had taken 
little nourishment. He was always turning his 
head, evidently to see if his mistress was able to 
come. At last, when I was convalescent and 
could take a little exercise, Joliffe was brought 
to the lawn behind the ward where I was lodged. 

75 



NICOLAS AND RINALDO 

When he did perceive me it was very gratifying 
for me to see his expressions of joy. He came 
close to me and caressed me by rubbing his head 
on my knee and pawing the ground. 

"Nicolas had been permitted to visit me daily. 
He brought me a few flowers and very often 
little drawings he had made of Joliife. He 
kindly cared for the horse and brought me 
detailed reports of all that could interest me. He 
came ostensibly to report about Joliife. I confess 
to you I soon saw that we were mutually 
interested in each other. I appreciated Nicolas' 
attentions; I have from time to time made him 
some presents of money, and in my own heart 1 
had decided to give him a Christmas present this 
year that will delight him, and which I hope will 
add to my pleasure. 

"Rinaldo had been informed of my accident, 
of the rescue and of my life in the hospital, but 
he was not allowed to visit me. I now felt able 
to see him, and he came as soon as notified. 
When he arrived at the hospital he had too keen 
an eye to business to evince the sHghtest 
displeasure at my adventure. In fact, the 
uppermost feeling on his part was gratification to 
find me again. He felt pleased that I might soon 
commence to replenish his treasury. 

"In the matter of faith Rinaldo stands as other 
g>'psies do, on a lower stratum than did the 

7S 



JOLIFFE 

Pagans. I have seen him at night, after 
partaking of the mysterious lotion, make some 
strange genu-flexions while silently gazing at 
the moon. At all times he has faith in the 
invisible genii loci. On my venturing to ask him 
what that meant, he replied : 1 have that from 
the wisest of our tribe, in whom I believe.' 

''Rinaldo spoke to me in Wallachian, so that 
we might not be understood by the assistants in 
the hospital. I speak four languages. Rinaldo 
recognized the advantage of my speaking several 
modern languages. While I was young, 
therefore, he taught me Italian, German and 
EngHsh. French I had already acquired, which, 
with my maternal language, Roumanian and 
Wallachian, enables me to speak intelligently 
with the various people who present themselves 
to peep into the secrets of their future lives. 
That much he taught me and trusted me, but 
he was too shrewd to teach me the dialect which 
he used with his own family. Therefore I never 
knew what he and his wife or Gerbo were saying 
when they did not want me to understand them. 
He has never objected seriously to my becoming 
a Christian. He has always been kind to me, and 
has appreciated the fact that I have gained a great 
deal of money for him. So one day when we 
were in Antwerp he bought this triptyque of an 
old Jew and gave it to me. I^et me open the front 

77 



NEW CONTRACT WITH RINALDO 

and show it to you. It has two doors. Now 
you can see it ; it has eight enameled sections or 
cells, one containing an engraved relief in agate, 
another an intaglio of the crucifixion in 
chalcedony, scenes in the memorable life of 
Christ. On the inside face of each door or 
hinged covers are figures in enamel of the Holy 
Family. It is a Flemish work of the fifteenth 
century. I value it and have it always with me. 

"With all his kindness Rinaldo is vain, indolent 
and cunning. He believes himself to be honest, 
yet, gypsy-like, he will sometimes appropriate 
anything we need in camp, providing he be in no 
danger of detection. He is a Wallachian and a 
serpent charmer. His wife was a Ghagar. He 
always called me Gaje (no gypsy) . 

"In about ten days I returned to camp and 
made a new contract with Rinaldo for one year, 
which will expire on the 15th of December next, 
so I hope to see you when I shall be free. Very 
probably you may think I lead a very strange 
and inconsistent life, with such belief and trust 
as I have learned and communicated to you. I 
must keep my contract, yet I am always 
treasuring up in my heart what Clementine told 
me, and I am so credulous that I am also inclined 
to believe what Bishop Merillon assured me was 
true about that shrine of Laghetto. Although I 
believe that it is sufficient to believe in Christ to 
be saved, yet I cling with hope to the thought 
that I can be cured of my lameness at Laghetto, 
if my faith is firm enough." 

78 



CHAPTER XV. 

OUR VILLA AT GRASSE. 

When Adelia had concluded her narrative she 
looked inquiringly in our faces, to know if we 
had been interested, and then, as if to rest, she 
looked around at the Oriental hangings, brasses 
and costume pictures and expressed her 
appreciation of the decorations of our apartment. 
As she sat with my wife in her private room, 
observing the Bible on the toilet table she said : 
**Had I not had the honor of your acquaintance 1 
would have perceived that you are Anglo-Saxon, 
for I see there the precious treasure, the 
inseparable companion of your race. Some day I 
may tell you how I too, know and value that 
volume. I see many travelers with red bound 
books in their hands to guide them through this 
land. They seem very much interested and 
content with those volumes. I have learned that 
the book on your table should be man's guide on 
the important journey of life, and I am convinced 
that by following the precepts taught in that 
sacred guide man may finally reach the reward of 
true faith." 

We certainly all enjoyed the hour. Adelia, 
although regretting that she was returning to 
less congenial society, left us with an air of 

79 



ADELIA'S DEPARTURE 

contentment at having confided her story to us^ 
who, she saw, had sympathy for her welfare. She 
had reserved her narrative until the eve of her 
departure. The last fact she communicated to 
us was that Rinaldo had already drawn the tent 
stakes, everything was prepared and on the 
following morning at the break of day they 
would be on their way. We very sincerely 
assured her that we hoped to have the pleasure of 
meeting her again. 

At evening our ayah, Ildara, could not resist 
speaking to Madame about the conversation with 
Adelia. She said : "I have been sufficiently 
surprised in India when I have seen Hindus of my 
own caste Hstening to the missionaries and 
renouncing their faith. I must ask mistress to 
hear me. I have listened not only with wonder, 
but with great interest and pleasure to this gypsy 
girl, who by accident has been led into the 
knowledge that has made her so charming." 

EVENINGS IN OUR VILLA AT GRASSE. 

When we happened to be alone of an evening 
at Grasse we had opportunities for reading, and 
frequently my recollections of journeys in many 
lands brought vividly before me reminiscences of 
peculiar incidents and evidences of the power of 
faith. 

By this evening's post we had quite a number 

80 



JOLIFFE 

of acquisitions. Gaston always took great 
pleasure in bringing the letters from the office. 
There were several pamphlets which had been 
promised me by a Buddhist priest at Tsenbo last 
year. They contained drawings of many of the 
principal incarnations of Buddha, in whose 
mediation and teachings so many millions of 
religious people during twenty-four centuries 
have placed their implicit faith. 

Gaston's packet from the post was larger than 
usual this evening. We have friends throughout 
India, Burmah, Siam and Japan who, since I 
have come to Europe, do not forget me. Their 
letters, and journals with ilustrations, remind 
me of many interesting days. Our evening is 
too short, so much presents itself and demands 
our attention. We sometimes realize how the 
inventions of scientific men have reduced 
distances and have thrown greater light in every 
sense on the age in which we live. We now 
receive tidings from Oriental countries twice in a 
month, we have letters that twenty days ago were 
being written by hands we have often pressed in 
the great bazaar at Darjeeling in the Himalayas, 
others from Newa Eliya, in the island of Ceylon. 
This morning an artist called on me. He had 
been the secretary of a prominent man in 
Colombo, Ceylon, a man who is really my friend, 
whom I have known in three continents, and 

81 



BUDDHIST BELL AT TSENBO 

who, in affection has just sent me an object 
of his faith, a bronze Binzuru, an incarnation of 
Buddha. 

Those picture books received that evening 
recalled to my memory one of the most remote 
temples we visited in northern Burmah. There, 
almost beyond civilization, on the heights above 
Tsenbo, on the upper waters of the Irawaddy, 
above the upper defiles, beneath the canopy of 
timbers of teak, stand two colossal figures carved 
in wood, which, during centuries have held 
between them a sonorous bell. Pilgrims from 
Burmah, the Himalayas and even China, travel 
leagues to strike this bell, believing that Buddha 
in heaven hears and is ever ready to be the 
suppliant of those who come in faith. I still 
wonder at the faith that induced many devotees 
before proceeding to the labors of the day in that 
country, remote from our civilization, to come and 
prostrate themselves before those inanimate 
wooden symbols of deity. 

Impelled also by recollections of strange 
ceremonies, performed before deities in wood, 
stone and bronze, in Bhamo, Ayuthia, Madura, 
Calcutta, in fact, by the Hindus in India, the 
Confucionists in China and the Buddhists in 
Siam, Corea and Japan, I find myself absorbed in 
reflections on faith, as I have seen it exemplified 
by so many of the human race. I decided to 

82 



JOLIFFE 

observe more closely whatever evidences may 
present themselves with a view of establishing in 
my own mind the importance of faith. 

ENVIRONS OF GRASSE. 

On the following day we made an excursion to 
St. Cezaire, the home of Ricardo. On the way 
we saw a subterranean reservoir of water in a 
cavern over six hundred and seventy feet in 
length, and near by the grotto of Mons, 
stalactites hanging from the upper rocks, and 
stalagmites rising from the floor of the cave in 
every direction. With torches the reflections of 
light were very effective. In one of the 
recesses of the cavern, strange to say, the 
stalactites had formed a cross, and some years 
ago some very devout people had caused to be 
erected an altar, and mass had been performed 
there, as in the colosseum of Rome. On 
account of the great moisture the bishop had 
forbidden the continuance of those services. 

For those residing in Grasse it is very 
convenient either to walk or drive into the 
country, as one is immediately among the trees 
and rocks. Everywhere on the roadsides, on 
hilltops, in the environs of Grasse, we met 
shrines, crosses, spears, sponges, hammers and 
nails. We visited the hermitage of St. Rosaline 
and of St. Pennafort, the Abbe' du Thornet. On 
passing through the city on our return we 
sometimes descended into the ancient 
subterranean church of Notre Dame. These 
were all evidences of faith. 

83 



CHAPTER XVI. 

LEAVING GRASSE. 

When at last the day came for our departure 
from Grasse we would willingly have tarried 
awhile longer. Before saying adieu we visited 
the debit and credit sides of our accounts. In 
settling with everyone we found the credit side 
to be in favor of Grasse, so many valuable 
privileges we had enjoyed — the climate, the 
scenery, the great beauty of the environs, its 
history, its plants, all appreciated ! 

We indeed regretted the idea of quitting our 
cozy domicile. We were taking away with us 
agreeable recollections of our sojourn as we 
moved away. We were conscious that our 
garments were charged with odorous souvenirs of 
the industry of Grasse, the market of fragrant 
perfumes. In this country one day is fair as 
another. We were away, all nature was bright, 
our four horses, held well in hand by Francois, 
went willingly and while prancing added the 
music of their jingling bells as they proudly 
tossed their heads ; they were so glad to be on the 
road again. As during our stay at Grasse we 
have frequently visited seaside Cannes, that 
winter resort where fashionable society people 

S4 



JOLIFFE 

bask in the sun, and after sporting exercises, 
find their daily pleasures in a routine of dining 
and exchanging visits. 

Cannes was built on the remains of an ancient 
Ligurian city. Quintus Opimius destroyed it 
150 years before the Christian era, when his 
forces almost annihilated the resident Pagans, 
whose faith was placed in the most absurd 
mythological effigies. Centuries later it became 
tributary to the monks of the Abbey of Lerins, 
who dominated all that region with a powerful 
regime. 

On this journey we therefore left Cannes for 
the south by the Mediterranean and drove 
through a beautiful wooded country to Vallauris, 
"The Valley of Gold," where at a provincial inn 
we lunched. Gaston, always pious, yet ignorant 
of the laws of his faith, attentive to his religious 
duties, profited by this opportunity and went to a 
chapel of the thirteenth century. While he was 
at prayer and the horses resting we visited with 
great interest the furnaces where porcelain and 
faience are baked, and the Ceramic museum. We 
saw it all, and were told that some of the vessels, 
vases, cups, etc., had been days and weeks under 
the artist's practiced pencil, brush and colors, and 
yet he consigned them to those intensely hot 
crucibles. Impelled by a sensation of fear lest one 
should be ruined while we looked on, we 



INSCRIPTION AT ANTIBES 

innocently asked the foreman: ''How can you 
risk those precious art works in that great heat ?'* 
His reply was fitting to my subject: "Oh, 
monsieur, experience has taught us to believe that 
they will escape unharmed; it is our faith that 
gives us courage." 

Our next interesting halt was at Antibes, 
where, in the Hotel de Ville, we read the following 
strange inscription, a quaint relic of ancient times, 
in that seaport town. The inscription is on a stone 
inserted into the wall of an old municipal building : 

** D. M. PVERI SEPTENTRIONIS AN XII 

QVI ANTIPOLI IN TEATRO BIDVO 

SALTAVIT ET PLACVIT.'' 

When that stone was placed there the people 
of Antibes believed in the myths of Paganism; 
now the great stone cross which crowns the 
gateway to the harbor announces to all that enter 
there that their faith hath been well founded. 

Quitting the seaboard, an hour was now spent 
in viewing the chateau of the Marquis de Paunise 
at Villeneuve-Loubet, with its pentagonal tower, 
rising one hundred feet above the palace. From 
the observatory on the top we enjoyed the view 
of the romantic Valley of the Wolf. Thence we 
drove through the forest of Biot and Valbonne. 
When within a short distance of our destination, 
passing leisurely through a grove of olive trees, 

86 



JOLIFFE 

on either side of the road, a number of peasants, 
hearing tne village bell announce the vesper hour, 
for a few moments ceased gathering the precious 
fruit, while in reverent attitude they joined in the 
Angelus, and with fervent hearts rendered thanks 
to the Giver of all things, who_ was bringing them 
to the close of another day of labor and in 
gratitude for an abundant harvest, they there 
renewed their assurances of faith. 

After dusk we arrived at the settlement of the 
lower town, where progress has encroached little 
by little on the suburbs of Cagnes. Houses and 
industrial buildings have been estabhshed on what 
was until recently a meadow, watered by the 
Malvan. Our vetura being cumbersome, Francois 
with difficulty guided the horses through the 
narrow and steep thoroughfare by which one 
reaches the terrace of the Hotel de Ville, or town 
hall, where our newly engaged villa is situated 
among the higher houses of the town. 

Again we find our attendants ready to aid us 
and with everything in order. All is quietly 
attended to, without the slightest flurry, and soon 
we are comfortably installed. 

By day we find the outlook from the terrace, 
which is on the point of the hill and is -quite 
precipitous. We look out on the old castle of 
Templars at La Gaude on the northeast ; also St. 
Jeannet, with its precipitous rocks standing up 

87 



ST. JEANNET 

boldly behind it, sheltering the hamlet from the 
north wind. The village, owing to its position, 
(luring many centuries has been protected from 
piratical attacks. 



88 



CHAPTER XVII. 

CAGNES. 

Cagnes has about four thousand inhabitants. 
It is situated at the confluence of the Malvan and 
the Cagnes. This is a quaint old town, perched 
on an oval-shaped height, as on an immense 
elephant's back and sides, for such is the form of 
the mound on which the houses of Cagnes have 
been built, where it rises from three to four 
hundred feet above the Malvan. At the very 
highest point and looking north, the Hotel de 
Ville, on the public terrace or square, commands a 
fine view of the mountain range beyond, and all 
the interesting hamlets between us and the more 
distant snow-clad barrier of the Basses Alpes. We 
could see also near by the old chateau of Crenele, 
which we also sometimes visited. It was built by 
the Grimaldi family originally, occasionally 
restored and enlarged from the fifteenth to the 
eighteenth century. Its remarkable stairway in 
marble leads to a gilded saloon, frescoed by 
Carlone. Among others is one representing the 
fall of Phaeton. It represents the moment when 
the horses of the chariot of the sun became 
unmanageable and Phaeton fell to the River Po. 
From the tower of this chateau we viewed the 

89 



THE OLD HORSESHOE 

ruins of the monastery of Saint Veran, of the sixth 
century. 

Our villa was well above many of the houses, 
clinging to the picturesque sides of the hill, yet 
we had accommodation for our horses and 
traveling vetura. We noticed one day that 
Francois had nailed an old horseshoe over the 
wagon house door. Although that fallacy was as 
old as the hills, I asked : "Did he intend that for a 
decoration ?" "Oh, bless you, no, no ; not that," 
said he; "my dear old father taught me when a 
boy never to let the blessings which a horseshoe 
brings be neglected or fall to another's lot. Always 
think of yourself," said he. "I still have faith in 
my father's counsel, and all wise stablemen believe 
in the benefits to be derived from a horseshoe 
found by the way. My pleasure is to bring good 
fortune to my master's household. I hope he will 
be benefited by my faith, even when bestowed 
on such an ordinary iron amulet." 

V/e were not dependent on nature alone; we 
had agreeable society around us, which brightened 
many an evening. Among our most charming 
friends while at Cagnes was the Countess de 
Millereale, whom we often visited at her chateau, 
near La Gaude. We had known her family 
already several seasons. Her daughter, at that 
time eighteen years of age, had been christened 
Cecile. The Countess was a very pious Roman 

90 



JOLIFFE 

Catholic, and believed so firmly in the intervention 
of saints that from the infancy of her daughter 
she prayed with great faith constantly to Saint 
Cecile. Her petition always was that her 
daughter might be invested with a similar love of 
music and that she might become eminently 
proficient. She was fond of all kinds of music 
and stated that the secluded position of her villa 
gave her few opportunities of hearing music. On 
one of these delightful occasions I said to the 
Countess: "It just occurs to me I have several 
times met two gypsy girls who accompany 
Rinaldo, of whom I have spoken to you. They 
play solos on the vioHn; their performance is 
exquisite. In case we ever have an opportunity I 
hope you may hear them." She assured me in her 
usual courteous manner that she would avail 
herself of that pleasure. 

When possible, we were always going about the 
country. A very agreeable outing was our drive 
to St. Jeannet. Its vertical rock is the most 
imposing feature in this section of the Alpes 
Maritimes. The hamlet had been the scene of 
many conflicts. Its people had always shown 
themselves brave in defending attacks. The inn 
where we stopped was a curiosity. Not only 
could one have the entertainment ordinarily 
found in a hotel, but up here among the 
rocks this auberge actually afforded the 
amusement to be found in a miniature theatre. 

91 



WHITE GRAPES IN JANUARY 

After lunching comfortably, we observed great 
bunches of white grapes, which hung in the month 
of January from a trellis under the dining room 
windows. We purchased a quantity of them, 
which the courteous proprietor told us to select 
as we desired. On asking how it was that they 
risked leaving such delicate fruit exposed to the 
night air of even their winter, the host replied : 
''Our fathers always trusted them to this climate, 
and we have faith that they will not be injured !" 

We are not always abroad; many hours and 
days are profitably spent in our apartment. We 
enjoy the sunsets, or early morning views, when 
we often mount to the upper rooms and look out 
in every direction. Often of an evening when 
Gaston returned from the post, there would be 
some special amusement. On one occasion there 
was a large letter addressed in French and in 
Chinese to Vil-Lee. He was much pleased and 
showed us the grotesque colored picture of Shin- 
No, the Chinese god of medicine. The envelope 
also contained a dozen little rice paper prayers. 
Vil-Lee set up the grotesque picture, and kneeling 
low, burned one paper prayer with evident joy. 
The fumes of that prayer, when it was consumed, 
were quite aromatic. 



92 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

RICARDO'S VISIT. 

On the 30th of November, two weeks after our 
arrival at Cagnes, Ricardo, his son, faithful Nico 
the dog, and their now almost empty wagon, 
climbed up to our hillside home. Nico, after a 
few minutes, remembered me and jumped on me. 
We were pleased to see them and to make them 
comfortable for the night. 

They frequently received orders at their home 
at Saint Cezaire, yet when they went out twice 
in the year with their little wagon to deliver their 
finished work, Geraldi always profited by every 
opportunity to solicit future work. He therefore 
carried with him when delivering finished work 
an album of designs on cards. Thus he showed 
cabinet-sized drawings in color of the subjects 
he and his father were prepared to execute in 
wood. The inspection of that album proved quite 
entertaining. Among them were several pictures 
of saints, of which Gerbo gave us the following 
description : 

Saint Roch was born at Montpelier, France. 

Like Saint Antoine, he was of noble parentage. 

We paint a small red cross on his breast because 

the legend says that he was born with that mark. 

93 



GERALDrS ALBUM 

He was left an orphan at twenty years of age. 
He disposed of his rich estates and shared 
everything v/ith the poor. He frequented hospitals, 
nursed and prayed with the sick. Such blessings 
attended his services that he was esteemed as 
heaven-given. He was stricken with the plague 
at Placenza, and only survived through the 
attention of his favorite dog. Through an error of 
justice he ended his life in a prison cell. He was 
made a saint and at one time an effigy of him 
being carried in a procession, a terrible plague 
which was ravaging the neighborhood of 
Montpelier ceased. After the people had seen the 
figure and prayed fervently that calamity almost 
immediately disappeared. 

And here is Saint Hubert. He was the 
thoughtless young hunter, living with no idea of 
the welfare of his soul. When on a holy day he 
met a milk white stag, bearing a crucifix on its 
horns, he hesitated a moment, laid aside his bow 
and, being impressed with the beauty of the 
animal and the symbol of holiness, he determined 
to renounce all sinful pursuits. He became a 
devoted servant of the Church and of God. Later 
he was made the patron saint of hunters, and is 
always represented with a white stag. 

Saint Expedit. — The history of the Church 

94 



JOLIFFE 

informs us that Saint Expedit, represented in this 
figure as crushing a rapacious bird with his foot 
and holding out the cross in his right hand, was 
chief of the Roman legion. Tertullian testifies 
that Expedit was honored by the Roman 
Government because he aided Marcus Aurelius in 
the Hercynian defiles by defeating the armies of 
the Marcomans, and therefore he received his 
name. However, he sympathized with the 
Christians, and finally accepted Christ as his 
Saviour. Diocletian at first was friendly with the 
Christians, but, fearing the power of the 
superstitious pagans, he persecuted all who were 
suspected of believing in Christ. Therefore under 
the Emperor's orders Expedit became a martyr 
and is adored as a saint. 

Each design was carefully and artistically 
covered by Geraldi. Looking over them and 
listening to his account of them made a very 
agreeable evening. 

In the morning, though we would have detained 
them, our interest in Ricardo could not tempt him 
to stay longer with us. Again we said adieu and 
with evident regret he started on his way to Saint 
Cezaire. 



95 



CHAPTER XIX. 

CALLAC AND TARN. 

It would almost seem that our various 
employes and those whom we meet in this section 
of the Riviera came especially to give us 
interesting evidences of faith. It cannot be said 
that we seek these incidents ; we merely note them 
as they present themselves. 

Francois was not the only man from France in 
our service. Every morning came one Jaouen of 
Callac, in Brittany, to look after the orders for the 
various supplies of our household. One early 
morning in December Jaouen remarked that the 
bells ringing from the church tower on that day 
reminded him of the iete of Notre Dame de Bon 
Secours and Notre Dame de Boulat. On that 
day the lame and the suffering visit the church 
at Callac. They walk slowly three times around 
the entire interior, praying the while. Then they 
repair to the fountain to drink and to bathe. 
The spring of water is built around with steps of 
chiseled stone. It is about lo by 15 feet in 
dimension and several feet deep. Many women 
of the congregation are in attendance to serve the 
pilgrims with the miraculous water. It is 
believed that those who have faith will be cured. 

96 



JOUFFE 

At Callac there are many pious people who 
pray constantly to Notre Dame de Bon Secours ; 
others who have had accidents during the year 
and wdio have been cured at the fountain, also 
come on that day to express their gratitude or to 
drink the water again and to pray for increased 
health. 

"Brittany is a great butter country, you know," 
said Jaouen, "perhaps you may think it very 
strange, at least I know that it will amuse you 
when I relate to you how our simple-hearted 
people at Callac give evidence of their faith. 
Each grateful devotee who has found happy 
relief, or who has been benefited by a draught of 
the beneficent water, comes to that chapel 
prepared to make offerings of butter. Pious 
women in attendance receive and arrange the 
butter. Like sculptors with little wooden 
implements they make decorations of flowers, 
birds, etc., and set the ornamental pieces up before 
the altar with prayers and supplications — really 
expressions of faith. 

The ceremonies in the morning commence with 
a procession of the faithful, among whom are 
mariners and fishermen, bare-footed. The day 
and far into the night is spent in dancing and 
merriment. Thus they rejoice and show their 
contentment that many have been restored to 
health. The following day a priest sells the 



FAITH AT CALLAC 

butter to the highest bidders. The proceeds are 
then devoted to purchases for the comfort of the 
poor. Such is their faith at Callac ! 

Francois, who had Hstened all the while, that 
evening came to us. He frequently asked 
questions, which he as often answered himself. 
"Do you know," said he, ''what induced those 
mariners to walk barefoot in the procession?" 
And he answered it before anyone could get in 
a word. "It was their faith that they would 
obtain a blessing in so doing, and be protected at 
sea." 

When as a boy I first saw those women descend 
the steps to the fountain, I asked : "Why do they 
go down there and drink and bathe?" The sister 
of charity to whom I v\^as speaking replied : 
"That they may be restored to health, and they 
will if they have faith." 

TARN. 

While Jaouen was about it he continued, 
saying : "I must tell you of another ; it is in the 
province of Aveyron, in middle France. There 
also is a sacred shrine in the parish of Minier, 
above the river Tarn, about one kilometre from 
Viala du Tarn. There is a rock on the summit. 
To the chapel at that point parents toil up the 
steep mountain with their children in their arms, 
fondly believing that taking them to that rock 
for a blessing, they will have success in life. 



JOLIFFE 

What, think you, makes them go to all the trouble 
to mount to that summit for a blessing ? Though 
I am only a coachman I tell you it is their faith." 
All this time Gaston had listened to Jaouen's 
story, and now very modestly asked to say 
something in his turn. We willingly listened. I 
will, however, preface his remarks with some 
notice of his early life. Gaston was born in 
Ajaccio, on the island of Corsica, where he resided 
until he was fourteen years of age. He then 
came over to the Riviera to seek his moderate 
fortune. He had been instructed very strictly in 

GASTON'S EARLY LIFE. 

the Roman Catholic religion, so that on his arrival 
in France proper, he was considered to be very 
pious, for he had regularly visited the churches. 
The greatest impression seems to have been made 
on his young mind by the colored wooden statue 
of Saint Anthony of Padua, which stood in a 
chapel in the cathedral church of Ajaccio. Gaston 
observed all that was to be seen, and paid attention 
to all the instructions from the clergy. "The fete 
which Jaouen has just described," said Gaston, 
"reminds me of my youthful days in Corsica. I 
remember well when I used to visit another shrine 
of Saint Anthony of Padua, just beyond the Place 
des Palmiers, at Ajaccio, there was a placard hung 
near the sacred figure, which instructed the 

99 

LofC. 



SAINT ANTHONY OF PADUA 

devout that in case they should lose anything they 
had better write a letter to Saint Anthony, in 
which they should make a vow and engage that in 
case of the restitution of the lost object they 
v/ould deposit a certain sum in proportion to the 
value of the things restored. All money thus 
received was called 'the bread of the poor,' and 
was dispensed for charity." This fact was only 
one of the many that Gaston communicated from 
time to time. 



100 



CHAPTER XX. 

berlodina's visit. 

On the 1st of December Berlodina arrived, 
atfording us the pleasure he had equally promised 
to himself. We gave him a cordial welcome. 
Besides interesting us in a literary way, he 
examined our garden, made valuable suggestions, 
and gave us much information. He joined us for 
a few days in all our outings. Our evening 
conversations were the principal source of our 
entertainment. He gave us biographical sketches 
oi the various noble families that had many years 
ago founded the castles, some of which were 
already dilapidated. His mind, however, had 
such literary stores that very frequently the 
conversation turned to the notice of such books of 
modern publication as had reached the shelves in 
the shops of the Riviera. He had long been a 
bookworm, and while we rested we profited by his 
interesting conversation. When speaking of the 
character of many of these works he became quite 
earnest in his expressions of disapproval of their 
general tenor. He said that scientists during the 
last forty years had contributed to our literature 
books which are calculated to weaken our faith in 
the sacred truths bequeathed to us by our 
lui 



HIS CRITICISM OF BOOKS 

ancestors, in whose judgment he had faith. "Not 
only on the shelves of the library," said he, "do 1 
find these books, but often in the public drawing 
rooms of the hotels. In fact, the reading of winter 
guests on the Riviera is pretty well limited to the 
lightest quality of romances. Into the pages of 
many of them are skillfully woven what I consider 
noxious elements. 

"In the gardens under my supervision I 
constantly pay attention to the growth of 
unprofitable plants. I pull up the deleterious' 
weeds as soon as they appear. At the same time 
I give the kindest attention to the care of such 
beautiful plants as attract the attention of all 
admirers of fair flowers. There is the 'Tritoma 
Uvaria,' it is interesting because it resembles the 
hive where bees store their honey. I watch it 
carefully that no weeds may spring up near it to 
m.ar its growth, impair its purity, or detract from 
its beauty. Ihave taken all this caution in my 
gardens, because I have faith that if the 
deleterious growths are weeded out then my 
Tritoma will bloom in all its splendor. 

"Just so would I do with the books that lie 
within the reach of those whose characters in 
young life are being formed. Have we not 
Boards of Supervision of public .morals, and is 
not attention paid to the distribution of dangerous 

102 



JOLIFFE 

chemicals, the sale of many valuable poisons is 
restricted, even in ridding us of annoying 
rodents ; chemists are instructed to be very careful. 
I feel that equal precaution should be taken in 
the m_atter to which I have already alluded. My 
faith is so firm in the plan of salvation, offered 
by the great sacrifice made by Christ, that I feel 
such books as I have alluded to should not be 
scattered promiiscuously in public places, where 
young, unshapen minds may unwarily be 
contaminated. My faith impresses me with a 
feeling that many of the advanced ideas of the 
present day can be injurious to those who are 
being educated. Yet I would not be too narroy/ ; I 
would present the truths of all denomxinations to 
young inquiring minds, that once a choice can 
be intelligently made, the impression of faith may 
be indelible !" 

Our conversation turned on amulets and talis- 
mans in connection with a reminder of one of 
Berlodina's expeditions in the Dark Continent, 
as it is erroneously entitled. "Yes," said he, "I 
have entered villages where all the people trusted 
in the great, grotesque wooden totems v/hich their 
medicine men had carved, hideously painted and 
planted at the entrances and exits of their 
ham.lets. Others with whom I spoke had even 
placed their faith in the influence and protection 
of frogs and toads. 

1U3 



BERLODINA'S FAITH 

"Some tribes who knew of tobacco and who 
used it, expressed their faith in a protecting 
power on high, by always beginning the day 
by blowing smoke from their lips towards the 
heavens in honor of the Supreme Being, who 
they believed, dwelt therein. "You may 
wonder," said he, ''that with such diversified 
experience I have retained a faith of my own. You 
little realize how much profit there is in contrast. 
I have compared the experiences of my journeys 
in the wide world, and as a great oak tree 
shaken by the wind, takes firmer hold, so do I 
find myself strengthened in my faith. We are 
ever observing and wondering at the strange 
beliefs of people in other lands, when if we only 
would turn our eyes upon the curious objects or 
actions, in which our neighbors have placed their 
faith, we can see peas and beans that were planted 
in the new of the moon. And how many of our 
acquaintances dare to have their heads shorn 
before or after the auspicious time, indicated by 
the phases of that moon, which they watch atten- 
tively that many things may be accomplished just 
in the first quarter. Again the awe with which 
the passion flower is touched. It reminds me of 
the pious regard the Buddhists of Ceylon have 
for the petals of the jasmine, when prepared for 
the altar in Tatagatha's temple. 

It is perhaps well that our destinies are not all 

104 



JOLIFFE 

cast in the same mould. There must be some 
cosmopolitans, and some perhaps more useful 
persons, who remain all their lives in the village 
where they were born. Those that have the 
privilege of traveling must enjoy, as I know you 
have done throughout the East and Europe, great 
opportunities of observing the faiths of many 
nations and tribes. 



CHAPTEPv XXI. 

THE GYPSY ENCAMPMENT. 

To the pleasure of Berlodina's visit was added 
a surprise. On the second morning Nicolas 
came to our gate. I happened to be with 
Berlodina in the garden and was attracted by the 
name of JoHffe. One might easily know that 
the animal had recognized an acquaintance. 
Before I could open the gate Joliffe had thrust his 
head through the iron bars and manifested his 
pleasure at seeing both Berlodina and me. 
Nicolas reported that Rinaldo, on leaving Cannes, 
had decided to divide up the fatigue of the journey 
by stopping for a week on the bank of the 
Malvan, in the suburb of Cagnes. Adelia had sent 
her respectful regards and hoped to see us. We 
were already aware of the admiration Nicolas 
had for Adelia ; there certainly was a gentle force 
that mutually affected them. We were there- 
fore not surprised to remark the pleasure with 
which he mentioned her, and we saw how invol- 
untarily his face was confused with emotional 
color when we spoke complimentarily of Adelia. 

We offered Nicolas some fruit and fresh milk 
from our cow. Before noon we sent Gaston to 
the Countess Millereale and suggested that she 

106 



JOUFFE 

should come and lunch with us, and in the 
afternoon visit the gypsy encampment. The 
Countess kept Gaston while she and Cecile made 
ready, and they came gladly to join us. 

We found the encampment pleasantly situated 
and many people of the country looking on. 
Adelia was evidently pleased to see us and to meet 
the countess. She introduced the gypsy 
violinists, Coralie and Marita. 

JoUffe presented himself, and Adelia related 
her experiences since we had seen her. 

This was, of course, not the most satisfactory 
place to hear the violinists or to converse, so we 
invited Adelia to come of an afternoon. Rinaldo 
even had the courtesy to come and speak a few 
words with us. The dogs also gave evidence of 
their presence. 

Visits to the gypsy encampment were not 
considered an intrusion by Rinaldo. He never 
neglected any opportunity to take in money or to 
offer civilities that might eventually prove 
profitable. He considered the character of the 
people wherever he stopped long enough to pitch 
the tents. He very quickly perceived in any 
province what was likely to please. As the people 
in the neighborhood of Cagnes, Iva Gaude, 
Gattieres, Colomars and St. Laurant seldom had 
such entertainment, Rinaldo and Gerbo, his son, 

107 



RINALDO AND GERBO 

gave exhibitions of gymnastic exercises. He shot 
with his bov\^ and arrow, at which performance he 
was expert. Gerbo would stand off thirty feet, 
holding an ordinary wine bottle in his extended 
hand. The arrow never failed to strike it. Rinaldo 
then, after placing his son with his back towards 
him, twenty feet away, would balance a quart 
wine bottle on Gerbo's head, and almost every 
time his arrow would hit the cork. On seeing 
this we felt anxious that the arrow should not 
strike too low, but the son had no fear; he 
had faith in his father's dexterity. The horse at 
such moments would watch Gerbo closely, and 
when the arrow struck the cork Joliffe would 
toss his head with expression of satisfaction and 
relief. 

Rinaldo was generally amiable with all his 
employes. He sincerely admired Nicolas ; but after 
he discovered his fondness for Adelia he seemed 
annoyed and was less cordial. 

Adelia now related a curious incident of the 
day. Before we arrived a strange looking blonde 
woman, with very rosy cheeks, came over from 
Nice. After fondling with the horse for some 
time she attempted to kiss him, when Joliffe, 
surprised at her familiarity, gave her a 
broad lick, removing at the same time all the color 
from one of her cheeks. She, however, had the 



JOLIFFE 

wherewithal in her pocket in which to look at 
herself, and to repair the damage. Neither was 
she oifended. 

The women of the district were principally 
occupied with the cultivation of flowers. Adelia 
informed us that these women, in seeking a 
knowledge of their fortunes, would ask about 
the prospect of the crop of orange blossoms. She 
said that at such moments she was anxious that 
red cards with many spots should turn up, which 
would represent bright flowers. 

The peasantry beginning to arrive in numbers, 
we thought it best to withdraw, with the 
assurance that Vv^e should soon meet again. The 
Coimtess was very much pleased. After some 
conversation with Adelia, Coralie and Marita, 
she invited iVdelia to come the next day to her and 
engaged the girls professionally to play on their 
violins, she promising to send a carriage for them. 

As a diversion for our guest, Berlodina, we 
invited Adelia to accompany us in our visit to the 
Countess. Berlodina made us all enjoy every 
moment of that drive, every plant, all the flowers, 
every stone we asked about, he made known to us. 

Nicolas came over the route on Joliiie's back, 
as he said, to give the horse an outing. 

After our arrival at the chateau Berlodina, with 
his ever-ready powers of conversation, interested 
the Countess and she paid marked attention to 

109 



MUSIC BY GYPSY GIRLS 

all he said. She was devoted to the study of 
music. She adorned her rooms with fitting 
pictures, especially a panel by Murillo, of St. 
Cecile, and now she had placed on an ebony 
pedestal the beautiful wooden figure in color, 
which Ricardo had shown us on the hilltop at 
Grasse. It was his Saint Cecile. Berlodina 
conscientiously admired it, and also had the good 
taste to praise it to the Countess and speak of his 
acquaintance with the artist, telling her he 
esteemed him as a superior man. The music now 
claimed our attention. 

On this occasion Cecile, who played the piano 
and the harp at sight, accompanied the gypsy 
girls on quite a number of their pieces of music. 
Old friends were not forgotten, several times 
they each played solos. Coralie gave us one piece 
very familiar to all, and long since considered 
threadbare, though from her hand that ''Carnival 
of Venice" was rendered with masterly power. 
Then Marita played with touching effect the 
intermezzo of Mascagni's "Cavalleria Rusticana," 
accompanied by Cecile on the harp. 

The visits of the Countess Millereale to our 
villa at Cagnes and ours to her chateau were 
always moments of delight for us. The hour of 
Cecile's contributions of emotional music, 
this day's entertainment was brightened by 
Fortunately this pleasure was while Berlodina 
iiu 



JOLIFFE 

was with us. In all that her mother heard from 
Berlodina she found nothing- to wound her 
rehgious opinions nor conflict with her faith. 

The greatest entertainment seemed to be on 
the part of the gypsy girls, who probably never 
had appeared for their own enjoyment in private 
society or in such an elegantly appointed house. 
As is often the case on such unexpected occasions 
of pleasure, it was with regret that we retired 
that evening. 

Before her departure from Cagnes Adelia came 
especially to our villa to see Berlodina. We then 
heard more of her ideas of faith and enjoyed her 
visit. The last afternoon we saw Adelia at the 
gypsy camp we did not remain very long, but with 
many promises of again meeting, we devoted 
ourselves entirely to our friend, Berlodina. 

While he was with us one of our neighbors, 
an unmarried lady, came in to see us. She painted 
water color sketches of the environs of Cagnes 
and made and colored photos of the country 
round. She gladly parted with these little 
souvenirs for a consideration in aid of the poor 
of Cagnes. 

We even had frequent visits, not exactly 
coveted. Two sisters of charity from a neighboring 
convent, one elderly, the other young and 
charming, came regularly for charity — tea, coffee, 
sugar, fruits, etc. 

Ill 



"MY LITTLE SISTER" 

One day I said : "Good morning, mademoiselle/' 
to the pretty one. "O ! monsieur," said the old 
sister, ''don't say that, please. She has given 
herself away forever to the Lord! You must 
address her as 'my little sister.' " I then asked, 
"But why has she given herself away forever?" 
"Ah, monsieur, that is our faith. What are we 
without faith?" 

Some time after our instalment in the villa I 
presented a letter of introduction to the Mayor 
of Cagnes, who received me with the invariable 
politeness and courtesy of a Frenchman of the 
Midi. Asking some information for my journal, 
he invited me to examine the archives of the town. 

Berlodina's visit could not continue as long 
as he desired. One morning, under a cloudy and 
menacing sky, he went away; that lowering sky 
was in keeping with our feelings of regret. One 
consolation, though absent, we were sure that he 
would not forget us. In his friendship we had 
faith. 



112 



CHAPTER XXII. 

CAGNES— RAIN. 

Days of sunshine and weeks of promenades 
in all directions find us prepared for the relief 
of some days of inclement weather. Rain gives 
us a welcome opportunity of rest. We now turn 
our attention to neglected books and journals. 
Besides our rich supply of reading matter an 
incident adds to our store an interesting 
newspaper. The pattering rain knocks on the 
window panes as though it would inform us that 
it was wet outside. 

A knock at the veranda door! Gaston comes 
to us smiling. He is always pleased when any 
of our neighbors send us a present. He places 
a basket on the table and, looking at us for 
permission, without speaking he proceeds to 
loosen the cord and waits until I raise the willow 
lid. I find choice mandarins nestling there in 
layers of white tissue paper, and just around the 
sides of the basket, for greater protection, our 
friends have placed a journal, "The Paris Edition 
of the New York Herald," of September 6, 1898. 
What could be more welcome ? Looking over the 
first page, its headlines again drew my attention 
to the question of faith. I imagined I saw the 

113 



OMDURMAN 

TERRIBLE ONSLAUGHT— SCORES, YES 

HUNDREDS OF ARABS 
fall before the victorious Christian hosts, as the 
English advanced upon the outer trenches of sand 
before Omdurman. There brave Musselmans 
gave freely their lives in defense of Khartoum. 
Why did these hordes so recklessly give up their 
lives ? It was the power, the force of their faith 
that impelled them. They had such faith in the 
assurance of their prophet that death in their 
sacred cause was gain to them. 

Their faith taught them that bloody battles are 
the gateways to the Garden of Paradise. 

In the early days of the month of September, 
1898, the cruel fate of Gordon was avenged. 
Omdurman and Khartoum fell from the fanatic 
grasp of the Khalifa AbduUahi, into the hands 
of the English and Egyptian conquerors. With 
due ceremony the flags of the victors were hoisted 
on the palace walls and an impressive service was 
held in General Gordon's memory in Khartoum. 
Where shall we find a m.ore terrible instance of 
the Musselman's faith than in the resistance of 
those two thousand Arabs, who in wild excite- 
ment left their ambuscade in a Nullah and twenty 
ranks deep rushed on to meet the charge of the 
Twenty-first Lancers? Ranks after ranks, file 
after file, were raked down by the invaders 

114 



JOLIFFE 

charge and cannonade, yet those ranks were filled 
by other fanatics, who, rejoicing in the slaughter 
that was bringing them nearer to reunion with 
their prophet, fairly threw themselves on the 
lances, crying: "Our faith is in Allah!" What 
a mystery! Why was it? Ever others joined 
those depleted ranks ; the fallen rose no more, 
others and others took their places. It was faith 
that emboldened them thus to die in their cause, 
and this entire litoral is beaming with examples 
of faith. Think of the shrines by the roadside 
and behold the confidence of the poor and the 
suffering, who daily bend the knee in faith. 

This opened to us a train of thought which 
eventually resulted in our taking more and more 
interest in the subject of faith. In a tract given 
to us by a colporteur, we read an account of those 
who, through faith, renew their lives without 
making the Mussulman's sacrifice of which we 
have just spoken. 

CAGNES. 

We gradually discovered an inconvenience in 
the high position of our villa, which took much 
from the pleasure of our fine outlook, especially 
when rain occurred. The odors and fumes from 
the chimneys below us entered our rooms, infected 
the air we breathed and detracted from the 
comfort of our life in this otherwise charming 
lis 



A TORRENTIAL RAIN 

location. After some weeks it really affected our 
health so much that we seriously contemplated 
absenting ourselves for a time from this, our 
beautiful retreat. A torrential rain continued 
during seventy-two hours ; still we had our 
entertainment within doors. One evening, among 
other literature, a brochure on climate and pure 
air, written by a Roman Catholic priest, claimed 
my attention. With a continued desire to 
practically investigate the question of faith and to 
find a locality where we might inhale fresh air, 
we were influenced by the valuable suggestions 
of that book to make our arrangements for a visit 
to La Tourbie, on the higher Corniche. 

As happily in this life sunshine follows rain 
bright days tempted us to undertake what had 
now become our intended excursion. We decided 
to go leisurely, that we might enjoy whatever 
should present itself for our entertainment on 
the way. Although sound in all our members, 
curiosity prompted us to go wherever suffering 
humanity could hope for relief. We realized 
that the change of weather had enabled us to 
attend to many little household duties, which had 
been relegated to more convenient occasions or 
truly to a rainy day. We saw that vegetation 
recuperated, fruits became more succulent. Wc 
WQTQ grateful to those clouds, recently so 
unwelcome, which we now found had brought 
fr®m the sky new raiment for fields and forests. 

116 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

LEAVING CAGxNES. 

Again comes the thought, human nature often 
cannot recognize blessings in disguise; though 
torrents of rain have kept us within doors we have 
read more carefully much that otherwise would 
only have claimed a cursory glance. How much 
brighter, too, seems the sky, when clouds have 
yielded to our prayers and sunshine once more 
prevails. 

Under such circumstances a bright December 
morning found us mounted on the vetura and 
Francois, more pleased than ever, for his bright 
countenance assured us that he approved of our 
start for La Tourbie. Our way at first for tvv^o 
or three miles through a continuous district of 
floriculture, Vv^as indeed charming; there were 
many acres on either side, gaily smiling with 
blooming stock gilly plants ; the air redolent with 
the aromatic odors of various pinks ; carnations, 
bearded, purple-tinted, monk's head, daisies, 
violets, anemones in hybrid varieties, picotees and 
crowded beds of candytuft. Here and there a 
tritoma, raising its pyramidal flower above the 
surrounding plants; its peculiar form, rich in 
hues of carmine, tender green, chrome red and 

117 



FLOWERS AND FRUITS 

pale yellow, in striking contrast to the humble 
gilliflowers, whose errand seems to be to yield 
sweet fragrance. Again we look down upon 
great fields of odorless plants, cultivated to fill 
out bouquets for the battles of flowers at carnival 
time in Nice. A mistral wind, lasting three days, 
had recently thrown down so many olives that 
the wheels of our conveyance frequently crushed 
them in the sandy road; oranges, lemons, olives, 
Japanese medlars, St. John's bread, cypress trees 
and others of the pine family beautified our 
road. 

ENROUTE TO LA TOURBIE. 

Our vetura is a relic of other days, when we 
journeyed on the Italian peninsula. 

From our high seats we now enjoyed on every 
side the beauties of nature. On nearing Saint 
Laurant the atmosphere w^as even more charged 
with the odor of the young orange trees, whose 
fair blossoms exceeded the perfumes of the plants 
passed earlier in the morning. After Saint Laurant 
we turned away from these attractions for 
others. We traversed the long viaduct over the 
estuary. Before vis streams the Var, swollen by 
the accumulation of water from so many 
hillsides. The torrent now fairly leaped, as on its 
broad course it hastened to the great sea, carrying 
with its volume logs, branches and even great 

118 



JOLIFFE 

trees that had been uprooted by the storm. In 
the south the emerald sea swelled up until it cast 
its brine into the broad estuary of the Arve, whose 
sweet waters yielded in the struggle and joined 
the receding waves into the ocean that rolled away 
to Africa. 

We looked to the north up the course of the 
river to the bold rock of Saint Jeannet, standing 
there as a sentinel, protecting the valley, whose 
v/ater we are traversing. On reaching the eastern 
side the character of the country was changed, 
our trees abounded instead of flower gardens. 
Two or three kilometres farther on we turned 
to a road nearer the sea, the sonorous bell of the 
Church of Saint Helena rang out its matinal call. 
The laboring people of the village, on their way 
to the occupations of the day, attended to its 
summons. Even the fishermen have drawn their 
boats up on the sand and joined the others, 
seeking a blessing at the chapel chancel. 

Busy women, wives of the fishermen, already 
repairing the nets, laid down their wooden needles 
and went from their work to the chapel, where 
they, too, sought a share of the blessing that 
awaits all that gather in faith. On bended knees 
they asked God's protection for the day ere they 
entered fully upon its duties. They hoped to 
accomplish much, they liad faith ; their priests had 

119 



VALLEY OF THE MAGNAN 

taught them to beheve the words of the Divine 
Master, who said : "All things whatsoever ye 
shall ask in prayer, believing, ye shall receive." 

After joining with them in their devotions we 
took the well-graded road still nearer the beach 
by the sea. We crossed the almost dry bed of 
an uncertain stream, the Magnan, at times a 
sluggish, rippling brook, again a torrent, carrying 
everything before it. On the bridge we halted 
a moment to look up the valley of the Magnan, 
where the gardeners, having faith in the precepts 
of their forefathers, continue to plant their early 
beans, peas and potatoes in the proper phase of 
the moon at the end of January or the first days 
of February. 

PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS. 

We now drive leisurely along the Promenade 
des Anglais, where the sea, rising and receding, 
breaks constantly over the rolling pebbles, giving 
us occasionally a taste of the spray that rises 
from its foam. All nature seems joyful. We 
pass the stately villas on this unique promenade. 
They who have erected those edifices have in faith 
built their foundations on rocks, laid into the 
sandy soil, that once was the province of the sea. 



120 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

NICE AND REFUGES. 

We now enter fair Nice, the central and 
greatest attraction of the Riviera, We again enjoy 
for some days the pubHc gardens, their landscape 
flower beds, date palms, fragrant eucalyptus, 
those ornate pepper trees, whose coral, bead-like 
blossoms remind us of that garden Peredinia, near 
Kandy, in the island of Ceylon. In fact, 
everything charming is before us and around us. 

To thoroughly enjoy our stay at Nice, we 
descend at that famous hostelry, the Grand Hotel. 
The director, Mr. Joseph Gailleton, always kind 
and courteous, lodges us in great comfort, and 
Phillipo takes care of Francois and Gaston, while 
Baptisto attends to the horses. Nowhere do we find 
such accommodations, such salons, restaurants, 
billiard rooms, garden and conservatory 
within the premises. Daily excursions employ 
the waking hours — La Tourette, the Grotto of 
Saint Andre, Falicon, Cimiez, Vallon Obscur, 
and, as it is always interesting, we visit 
Aspremonte, another refuge, which is reached 
after mounting the terraces that look down on the 
fair city by the sea. From thence one drives by 
the circuitous route, winding around the sides of 

121 



MOUNT CHAUVE 

spurs of Mount Chauve and through many 
ravines. After going as far as possible with 
horses one mounts by a steep and narrow way, 
with here and there stone steps, till at the highest 
point we find not only the church, but other 
evidences of the piety of the human inhabitants of 
the hamlet. On a terrace surrounded by a low 
wall, the women of the Refuge gather of an after- 
noon and sit there while awaiting the setting sun. 
V/hile knitting they intone together the evening 
prayer. When their vespers finish they kneel 
before a group of painted figures which illustrate 
human frailty. Christ is there represented as 
praying in the Garden of Gethsemane; his 
disciples have fallen asleep. Nearby at the east 
side of the church is the shrine, the picture within 
which was paiiT.ted by a Capucine monk. In the 
early summer it particularly demands attention. 
The legend is that while Medard was watching 
his herds on the hillsides near Aspremonte, an 
eagle frequently came and, lighting in a tree over 
the holy man's head, would shelter him from the 
rays of the sun or from the rain. They trust 
so firmly in the prediction of Saint Medard that, 
with many others in Europe, they attend his 
birthday to ascertain the prospect of the condition 
of the weather, believing that whatever it may be 
on that occasion it will surely continue during 
forty days. Another instance of faith. 

122 



JOLIFFE 

During our sojourn the sun rises and sets as 
usual in this city of hixury and of pleasure. Days 
follow one another as elsewhere. One has neither 
the quiet of Grasse nor the repose of Cagnes. 
Sunday morning here is the Sabbath of many 
faiths, with the break of day sleep is almost 
impossible in some parts of Nice. At 5 A. M. the 
bells in the towers of several churches in the old 
Italian towns call with incessant chimes the 
faithful to prayer. One portion of the English 
colony worships at their House of Common Prayer 
in the Rue de France, while another branch of that 
denomination meets in the Carabacel. The 
Americans of a similar persuasion assemble at 
their chapel. The Russians perform the ceremonies 
of the Greek Church under a gilded dome in the 
quarter of Saint Etienne. Lutherans, Methodists, 
Presbyterians and Baptists find congenial places 
of worship. The French evangelists hold the 
impressive services in their own modest sanctuary. 
The Scotch nonconformists meet for prayer and 
praise in their place of worship. Faith is the 
power that brings all these people of many minds 
into their various temples on this first day of the 
week. Our friends are here from Algeria, India 
and Burmah. Ahmed-Haleel-Eunice and Ben 
Salone, followers of the prophet, bathe themselves 
five times a day and pray, and when they are 
traveling simulate a bath by friction with a flat 

123 



A SUNDAY MORNliNG 

stone. Here also is a brother of Lala Ledic and 

several others, mostly Hmdus of lower castes. I 

speak of them as friends, for I have known them 

and tried them in their native countries. They 

have no special day for rendering thanks. They 

attend to that and make their supplications every 

day ; therefore on Sunday morning they tidy up 

their bazaars to be ready to sell their brasses, 

painted or printed draperies and embroideries, 

and even deities in bronze or wood to those who 

are not of their faith. 

>ic >:< i^ ^ >!< ^i ^: ;;< 

At gray of evening on a Sabbath day, 

Fitting moment to rest and pray, 

A woman fair chanted a refrain. 

Of those lines I've kept this strain — 

Father, wilt Thou our sins forgive? 

For in Thee we do believe ; 

We will trust Thee while we live. 

Precious Father, we believe ; 

We rely on all the Bible saith. 

In our Saviour we have placed our faith. 

******** 



124 



CHAPTER XXV. 

THE CORNICHE. 

When about to leave Nice, Francois made a 
good provision for the horses. He carried in the 
box behind two. large bundles of fresh hay. 
When all was ready we drove once more to the 
public gardens, and thence by the Opera House 
on the Ouai du Midi. There we waited while 
Gaston went through the narrow streets of the 
old Italian town to the fruit market to get one 
of our traveling hampers, Avhich had been left 
there to be replenished with medlars, figs, grapes 
and rennet apples. While we waited there our 
vetura was surrounded by vendors of all sorts of 
souvenirs. One old Italian offered us many 
religious fetiches in silver and bronze ; another, a 
deity, supposed to have the power of calming the 
sea, of which for the moment we had no need, 
and a small painted figure of Saint Reparata. 
Among the things offered to us were actual 
objects of faith, carried and valued by all the 
simple-hearted people of this section. One woman 
made quite an effort to sell us a medallion of Saint 
Anthony of Padua. "Your ladyship," said she, 
"there is no doubt about the efficacy of that 
medallion; I had once lost my chickens, and 

125 



RUINS OF CASTLE 

through the intervention of Saint Anthony, to 
whom I prayed, they were all returned." 

When Gaston came back with the basket we 
returned to the Paillon and started for the 
Corniche. At first between us and the sea our road 
passed a point where a rocky hill rises which is 
covered with verdant trees. Utitil about two 
hundred years ago it was crowned by a chateau. 
The Duke of Berwick, Marshal of France, 
demolished it in 1706. The ruins, the wooded 
grounds, the terrace and a cascade still render 
it an attractive rendezvous for all who care to 
mount the very steep stoneway that has been cut 
and constructed in the precipitous rock. 

THE CORNICHE. 

Leaving the Grande Place, with its fountains 
and statue of Garibaldi, by pursuing the Rue 
Victor, we go directly east from the Place Risso, 
where we meet hundreds of women and girls on 
their way to the Government tobacco works. We 
leave the Paillon, in its ever-changing river bed, 
on our left. On the outskirts of Nice we pass 
through an avenue, shaded by plane trees, where 
the atmosphere is perfumed by the odor of orange 
and lemon groves, a kilometre in extent. Our 
way is the old road of the Col di Tenda, the 
mountain route to Turin, in northern Italy. 
While yet on the plain and thus below the rocks 

126 



JOLIFFE 

of the mountain, Francois pulls up the horses, 
we meet a procession of devout people, headed 
by several priests and altar boys, who are about 
entering a wayside chapel. Francois explains to 
us that it is a service called in France "he. Bout 
de I'An." That is a ceremony very strictly 
observed in this section of France. It is the 
anniversary service of one year after the death of a 
friend or member of a family. In this case we 
learned that it was in memor}^ of a man who had 
been highly respected and loved by his fellow 
citizens. Francois added : ''We pray on such 
an occasion as this fervently, and we believe that 
God will hear us and have mercy on that man's 
soul. It is our faith." 

We commence to ascend at Riquier, mounting 
at first the northwestern slope of Mount Boron, 
then the side of the Vinaigrier, and from one 
elevation to another to Mount Pacanaglia. We 
later on reach an altitude of two thousand feet at 
Mount Sembola, new panoramas continually 
unfolding before our delighted vision. Crags and 
mossgrown rocks, dotted here and there with 
pious shrines, the solid foundations of castles and 
villas guarded within turreted walls, are the 
picturesque points of view from which peasantry 
look down upon our vetura. 

The sides of the way are at times walled up. 
There are many niches with religious figures, 

127 



CURIOUS INSCRIPTION 

forming shrines for devout wayfarers. Now 
and then me meet with curious inscriptions. 
One we have noted in our journal and shall also 
find a place for it here : 

''Di chi mi fido guardami Iddio 
Di chi non mi fido mi guardero io." 
We ask ourselves many questions about the 
mossy green lizards that chase one another from 
crevice to crevice, occasionally nibbling at the 
bright red fruit on the strawberry trees which here 
grow three to four feet high. How gay those 
lizards are! How they peep at us! See how 
like chameleons that take the color of the foliage, 
as they play hide and seek and stop occasionally 
to take a closer look at those that pass. Walls 
have crumbled in some places, and even the rocks 
of the mountains bear evidence of the inevitable 
decay imposed by the inexorable time. At 
moments we turn from the natural bold beauty of 
our road and view below us, as on the borders 
of a mountain torrent, the beautiful city of Nice, 
now basking in the semi-tropical sun, whose 
brilliance it repeats again and again upon the 
Mediterranean on the Bale des Anges, a gulf of 
the greater ocean. Nature has adorned all these 
heights with odorous flowers, and man, always 
seeking to improve upon nature, has set out and 
trained fairer, and perhaps more beautiful plants. 
On our way to the summit we rise from one height 

128 



JOLIFFE 

to another on the Corniche, the seaside frame of 
southern France. 

THE CORNICHE. 

Each terrace commands another view, now of 
verdant hillsides, now of village-dotted valleys; 
we enjoy the same rays of the comforting- sun that 
also sparkle on the ice cap peaks and snowy fields 
of the monarch barriers that far away in the 
North erect their monster chains between this 
temperate climate and that of Central Europe. 
As one dreamingly sees the figures that come and 
go of an evening in the embers of a chimney fire, 
so we, entranced by the grandeur of those snow 
mirrors, behold for moments together shadows 
that, like mysterious forms, stand and move on 
those pinnacles above the clouds, and give to our 
enamored eyes visions of splendor that, by their 
magnificence, create a contrast of barrenness with 
the fertility around us, and which in a measure 
prepare us for the quiet scenes, which later on 
are to occupy our attention on our route to the 
silent shrine of Laghetto. 

After twenty minutes ascent again we see the 
prominent rock of St. Jeannet. Now Francois 
calls our attention to a monastery we had often 
visited. ''You see," said he, ''that cloister on 
yon height, Cimiez, there daily at 3 P. j\I. a 
monastic brother teaches all who gather from the 



129 



CIMIEZ, SAINT PONS, FAUCON. 

country round. He instructs them in the truths 
of our religion and impresses on his peasant 
hearers the power and influence of faith. Directly 
below us on a plateau above the Paillon is the 
abbey Monastery of Saint Pons. Behind that 
abbey, higher up on a craggy eminence, is Falicon. 

A moment farther on to the northeast we see 
a picturesque tower and village clinging to a point 
of rocks. It is La Tourette, and perched still 
higher to the north the deserted ruins of Chateau- 
Neuf, abandoned a few years ago when an 
earthquake diverted a part of the supply of water 
and rendered nauseous what still flowed into some 
of the wells. This was another secluded refuge. 
They all stand in almost inaccessible positions. 

To provide means of defense to these rock- 
hidden hamlets, on remounting from labor in the 
valleys below or on returning from errands to 
the towns vv^ith supplies for their household, each 
man gathers one or two cobblestones from the 
beds of the mountain streams, so that in case of 
any attack or efforts by pirates to reach their 
retreats these stones formed a supply of missiles, 
ready to throw down upon the invading party. 
On our left, to the north from our present 
position, we enjoy again a fine view of snowclad, 
sunlit Alpes Maritimes, and beyond we descry 
occasional peaks of the Basses Alpes. There in the 
centre rises Saint Cecile, the patroness of all that 

130 



JOLIFFE 

pertains to music. On the left, Mount Micaron ; 
farther away the heights of Grimoldi, and just 
before us Saint Catharine, the patroness of 
teachers, virgins and wheelwrights. 

Looking to the north over the refuges of Contes 
and Chateau-Neuf back to the ice-clad cliifs of 
the Basses-Alpes, we see in the shadows of the 
out-piercing needles the gnomes of that desolate 
abode, where ridges of snow reach higher stand- 
points that they, too, may look to the beautiful 
sea of the Riviera and observe those roving ships 
which shall never cast their anchors in these 
remote realms of snow. There by day rules the 
light of the orb of heaven and all is silence. Ever 
and anon blazing streams of sunlight, reflected 
from the changing snow mirrors, constantly move 
with the northern wind. Here and there brilliant 
peaks seem to be indicating heliographic signals 
to the white-capped sea, which involuntarily 
replies to their courtesy by flickering flashes of the 
same consoling light. 

Behind those far-off hills other whitened crags 
raise their imposing forms, their heads and 
shoulders significantly draped in snowy robes, 
chaste emblems of sympathy and charity, for they 
give their beautiful light alike to peasantry and 
nobility. The scene is heightened when the 
window-panes in the lofty houses of Contes send 
brightly to us the reflected rays of the mid-day 
sun. 

131 



BEGGARS 

Among all these enchanting sights we meet 
with evidences of human depravity that command 
our attention and lead us to serious reflections. 
We have seen the pilgrim poor, honest though 
penniless, too upright to beg, they go hopefully 
by the unfrequented valley of the Paillon. They 
ask relief, they attend a blessing at the shrine of 
Laghetto. It is their faith that consoles them, 
yet we encounter here a class of men and women 
impostors, men who have cunningly placed their 
faith in the generous impulses of those who often 
drive over these well-kept roads. They 
daily take their position; each has some 
favorite place on the route which he 
actually claims among the fraternity as his 
own. They simulate lameness or pretend 
to be otherwise infirm. Some of them have been 
trained from childhood to appear to have 
contorted arms and legs. I know one of those men 
who has accumulated wealth. Such people will 
never work. They have found that imposture 
and demanding alms while posing in the fragrant 
air in shady places is a profitable occupation, and 
they continue to practice it during life. 

THE CORNICHE— TOYLAND. 

We now reach a point of view where we linger 
for awhile to enjoy the pastoral scene before us. 
The landscape below us is undulating and 

132 



JOLIFFE 

rendered more picturesque by the unique forms of 
the cypress trees. Their tall, bare mast-like 
stems are topped with spiral tufts of evergreen 
foliage. The men and women laborers in their 
primitive red and black costumes give a charm 
to the picture. \Yc even perceive some of the 
animals which walked into Noah's ark before they 
were reproduced in Nuremberg. This must have 
been the spot where the doyen of the Bavarian 
toy makers looked down on nature and found 
the model toyland pla3'things that have 
entertained little children ever since, or that some 
wood carver of the Thuringian forest had modeled 
his wooden trees after those that beautify this 
quiet rock-bound corner of Southern Europe. 
Here also were wooden houses, castles and 
bridges, that in toyland miniature blocks have 
possibly given some embryotic ideas to the 
architects of the world. 

Even in this realm of tranquility we see the 
elements of war — companies of French infantry, 
chasseurs and artillery are maneuvering on the 
military roads on the mountains. On a ledge of 
rocks opposite our route infantry and chasseurs 
have established themselves behind a hastily 
constructed earthwork. On a mountain to our right 
a battery of artillery is trying to dislodge them, 
while tAvo companies of chasseurs in Pyrenees 
berritas are climbing the precipitous mountain at 



MILITARY EVOLUTIONS 

another point in an effort to silence the artillery 
from behind. Francois suggested that they had 
faith in their occupation, but added: ''Thank 
God! I have given my military service and am 
once more my own master, saving the respect due 
to my kind employers." 



134 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

UNDER THE OLIVE TREES. 

We continue our journey now in view of 
Mount Pacanaglia, and, looking down into the 
valley of the Murtha. After turning round 
Mount Gros and passing the Ouatre Chemins, we 
see upon our right the astronomical observatory, 
where French scientists do star-gazing. A short 
distance further on Francois turns the horses off 
the road into a quiet nook near a spring under a 
grove of olive trees. Men were beating down 
the fruit. The women, having finished gathering 
the olives on one side, kindly invited us to occupy 
one of the coarse linen covers which are placed 
under the trees to receive the fruit as it falls. We 
have folding pieces of rattan and bamboo furniture 
and the bamboo hampers which we employed 
in the Himalayas. Gaston quickly cut a branch 
from a fir tree and swept away what twigs and 
olives remained. After opening out the folding 
table and chairs he proceeded to remove our lunch 
from the hampers, and prepared everything as 
neatly as though we were in a castle. We 
partook of our repast leisurely, with kind 
remembrances of Gailleton, of Nice. 

When about finished several acquaintances 

135 



ADELIA, FLOSSIE, KIKI .' ~ ' 

approached — Joliffe, his mistress Adeha, who was 
Hmping with that stiff knee ; the dogs were there ; 
the encampment was near by. AdeHa had seen 
our vetura and hastened to express her joy at 
once more meeting us. Francois received Nicolas 
very cordially. Although Nicolas was intellectually 
his superior, they went off together with 
Toliffe to one side on the road, where they 
attached him to a tree, lest if left nearer to us he 
niight have crushed the olives that were lying in 
quantities on the ground. 

Coft'ee and buns were partaken of, though 
eating and drinking afforded us little pleasure in 
comparison with Adelia's conversation. When 
she assured us of her contentment at meeting us 
and spoke with us a little while, we again found 
something so agreeable in her voice that she soon 
saw by our manner that the pleasure was equally 
ours. Flossie and Kiki, the dogs, kept letting us 
know^ that they were old friends and wished to 
be recognized. Adelia feared that we would be 
annoyed and apologized for their manifestations. 
They sought by various pranks to attract our 
attention and to ingratiate themselves. They 
entertained us with amusing and difficult feats. 
Of course the odor of our lunch had reached them. 
They stood upright and danced as gracefully as 
dogs could do. While Flossie was making 
somersaults, turning like a wheel in the air, Kiki 

136 



JOLIFFE 

was walking around him on his four paws. At 
intervals they looked up imploringly, then retired 
to a respectful distance, awaiting the result of 
their efforts. Adelia gave them the credit of 
remembering having seen us at Grasse, which she 
thought was an evidence of their remarkable 
intelligence. Their efforts to make themselves 
understood met with success, we did not long- 
pretend ignorance, so they soon were enjoying a 
good feast of well-covered bones of cold venison. 
Adelia continued: ''Since we saw you so 
frequently at Grasse we have been to Nice and 
now we are encamped near here. There are a 
number of officers with their families now at the 
Observatory who are fond of an entertainment of 
an afternoon. It is here, as elsewdiere, women are 
so curious about the future. There are now eleven 
ladies in all at the Observatory ; six are resident 
and five are visiting guests. Nine of them have 
consulted me already. We have been here about 
fifteen days, and in that time I have told the 
fortunes of at least thirty women. Two-thirds 
of them have been English, either residing or 
stopping in the neighborhood. 

"Our girls have gone up to the Observatory this 
afternoon, accompanied by Rinaldo, who always 
looks after them. He always pays attention to 
the gaining of money. He reminds me of a man 
whom he knew and admired at Limoges. That 

137 



A STRANGE PARTNERSHIP 

man had a general bazaar, such as they have 
nowadays all over France. One New Year's day he 
announced that he had taken God into partnership 
with him. He proposed to the municipal authorities 
that they should come and inspect his books 
and accounts throughout the year, and promised 
them that one-half of all his profits in the year 
should be paid to the Lord, who hath said : 'He that 
giveth to the poor lendeth to the Lord. I know 
what my Heavenly Father would have me do, so 
I have decided through you to share the profits 
of the year with the poor.' Rinaldo admired him 
in that he had shrewdly conceived an original 
enterprise. The result was that many flocked 
daily to his bazaar, and he realized great profits. 
A few years later, when he announced that he 
would close out his business on the same basis, the 
sales and revenues were enormous. 

"Up to the Observatory this afternoon when 
the plate will be handed around by one of the 
dancing girls during the performance, Rinaldo 
will say : 'Ladies and gentlemen, contribute freely, 
for the half of whatever may be received is for 
a good cause.' He imagines that he is speaking 
the truth, for his private arrangement with the 
company is that one-half of the money taken daily 
is for the expense fund and the other half is for 
his own dear self. The latter is his estimation of 
a good cause. 

138 



JOLIFFE 

"You will remember that we have six girls in 
all. Three are musicians, Coralie and Marita 
play the violin, Bertha plays accompaniments on 
a loud-toned guitar; Tivilia, Edita, and Doria 
dance, each having a tambourine in the hand. 
Among other dances Tivilia gives the bolero di 
Cartagena. Occasionally they will in turn offer 
their bronze plate, never missing an opportunity 
of adding a few centimes or larger coins to 
Rinaldo's treasury. A share is given to each, which 
makes them more attentive to that part of the 
performance. Meanwhile I am generally left with 
my house wagon to tell fortunes. My receipts 
are greater than those of the others combined, for 
I frequently receive goodly sums from those 
whose fooHsh curiosity leaves them to pay for a 
knowledge of life. My conscience would reprove 
me were I not honest. What can I do? I am 
in a sense a bondswoman ; my contract holds me. 
However, I believe and have faith that I shall 
some day be free from this occupation and from 
pain and sin. 

"Truly we gypsies are rovers. We have 
wandered everywhere and have fine opportunities 
to see this interesting world. 

'T could relate you many strange experiences 
in every part of this wide world, but uppermost 
in my heart is the recollection of that accident 
which was the means of my gaining precious 

139 



ADEUA'S MISSION 

thoughts, and I hope of my entering on a ne^ Hfe. 
We are seldom content with the lot destined for 
us. Often restraint is best for us, though we 
know it not. I^iberty, that sometimes delusive 
mirage, which I had desired before my accident 
occurred, I see now was wisely, fortunately, 
denied me, for through that detention in the 
hospital at Montpelier I learned the precious 
secret of eternal life. It is often disappointing 
when we are loth to give up our liberty. In my 
case it has proved a blessing. I never understood 
Christ until after I had that accident and met that 
despised young nurse that gave me the simple 
truth. Since then I always want to share the 
tidings v,-ith others. I meet so many who do not 
know Jesus. I thought I might even speak of it 
to you, for I have found that some, like you, that 
know it all, like to speak of it again and again. 
Think what I have accomplished already. In 
pursuing this course, I have taught Bertha and 
Coralie, and now they too, are happy, for they 
have found a friend in whom there is no guile. 
And there is Nicolas, who is always kind to me 
and Vv^hose affection, I confess, I prize. To my 
great satisfaction, as I once told you, he listened 
to the evangelists at Limoges, and ever since then 
I find in conversation with him that he has chosen 
that good part which shall not be taken away 
from him. 

140 



JOLIFFE 

"I have often thought that the majority of 
peopfe have a wrong idea of faith. Their notion is 
— for they hope — that God v/ill rule things just as 
they want them. Now I have found that a true 
understanding of faith is that God doth all things 
well,, and we should confide all our hopes and 
desires entirely in his keeping and wait with faith 
the result. Many of the thoughts I expressed to 
you are not all my own. They seem to come to 
me from some invisible power. When I am 
among the ignorant peasantry I often think that 
my Father in Heaven trains my lips to speak the 
words I utter. Knowing this, I always hope 
that those to whom I speak may keep some of the 
thoughts I have given to them. I am grateful 
that my mind has been enlightened, seeking no 
approbation from the world, I have become a 
gypsy evangelist. I confess I do not now 
approve of all the forms and ceremonies in the 
church of Bishop Merillon. In that precious 
book given me by the woman that was 
scorned in the hospital, I have learned that He 
who knoweth all things first uttered much that 1 
heard from Clementine. Although she was 
considered a heretic by the other nurses, there was 
something so simple in what she taught me while 
she nursed me at Montpelier. 'Dear child,' said 
she, 'you need to learn very little. Christ hath 
done it all for you. You have only to believe on 

141 



ADELIA'S GYPSY PARENTAGE 

Plim, only to have faith m His omnipotence and 
His love, and eventually you shall go to be with 
Him.' 

"I am of gypsy parentage. I have been 
educated by Roman Catholics since the day I was 
taken to that farm, yet I cannot believe the 
intermission of any saint can be available as a 
mediator for me. 

"Everything about Montpelier interests me, 
and although St. Roch is said to have been born 
there and many of my friends believe in him, still 
his image does not appeal to my soul. Clementine 
gave me the truth. I desire to understand 
it more fully. I hope that you will not dislike 
my coming to you and speaking thus seriously. 
Christ's Vv^ords were addressed to all mankind, 
the rich as well as the poor. 'Come unto me all 
ye that are heavy laden and I will give you rest.' 
I am sure that many rich are far more heavily 
laden than some poor. I have been told that 
many of those that drive in fine carriages on this 
beautiful road seem to be unaware that there is 
a Redeemer waiting to receive their love, and 
whose countenance they might enjoy. You 
probably have no burden, yet I thought perhaps 
you might know of some who have more than they 
can bear. I have often asked myself in this 
connection : 'Why shall I hesitate to speak with 
rich people ? There is our heavenly Father, is not 

142 



JOLIFFE 

He, the richest and most exalted Being in 
existence ? Yet I can go freely and speak to Him at 
any moment; therefore I have been emboldened 
to speak to you, who have proved to be my 
friends. Don't be offended that a little gypsy 
fortune teller dares to communicate her religious 
impressions to you.' 

"It is true that my voice is sometimes exercised 
in vain, few care to listen. You, no doubt, do not 
need the precious message of which I have spoken 
so earnestly. You will, however, please take 
these wild flowers as souvenirs of the gypsy girl 
that has been bold enough to open her loving heart 
to you and tell you of her faith. Often a trivial 
gift proves an assurance of friendly feeling, so 
nature has written that message in these few- 
flowers I have gathered since you arrived." 

All this time the horse was fastened to a tree 
on the roadside. Nicolas looked after him, and 
Francois generously shared the fresh hay with 
him. Joliffe was pleased with the change of diet 
and smacked his lips with contentment. Nicolas 
enjoyed talking with Francois, yet we noticed 
that he would willingly have been nearer to 
Adelia to hear the conversation. 

Before we separated again Adelia said : "You 
will perhaps be glad to hear of Rinaldo and 
Jolif¥e since were at Grasse. Rinaldo, probably 
with an eye to his own interest, has been very 

143 



MERILLON RECOMMENDS LAGHETTO 

kind to me. He knows that in a few days I can 
be released from our contract. Then I hope to 
reahze the rehef promised to me b}^ Bishop 
Merillon, when he recommended so hopefully and 
confidently the grotto of Laghetto. I continue to 
suffer from the accident near the frontier of 
Spain, but am assured that by going in faith to 
Laghetto, I can be perfectly cured. An incident 
may interest you. Last year when we were 
encamped more than three months at Nice a 
Vv^ealthy Englishman admired Joliffe. He took a 
great fancy to him and offered me, through 
Rinaldo, ten francs daily if I would let his son, 
fourteen years of age, ride the horse about the 
country during our stay. Rinaldo referred him to 
me. Finding the offer liberal, I accepted it. When 
we were about moving away from Nice, the 
Englishman offered to buy Joliffe, as his son had 
l:)ecome fond of him. Although he would have paid 
handsomely for the horse I would not part with 
my mute companion. The family was at Nice 
this winter. So long as w^e were encamped there 
they had the horse on the same terms. Rinaldo 
always looked after Joliffe and took as much 
interest in my lease of the animal as though he 
w^ere adding to his own purse. It was always a 
satisfaction to me that although Joliffe went 
amiably with the youth I could perceive that when 
he came back in the evening the au-imal's faith was 

144 



JOLIFFE 

ill Adelia. I fear that Francois will be impatient," 
said Adelia. "I see that he has the horses ready 
and Gaston is only waiting for the chairs. I hope 
to see you before long. Rinaldo will regret not 
having returned in time to meet you." With a 
wave of the hand she was aw^ay. We noticed that 
although Gaston was attending to the hampers, he 
had listened attentively to Adelia's story of faith, 
which in its simplicity was so new and attractive 
to him. 



145 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

INCIDENTS ON THE CORNICHE. 

We were soon in our places. A word from 
Francois, no whip needed, and the horses went 
gaily, willingly forward. The road is now cut 
on the sides of the rock. We come on to the 
main Corniche road, from which we look down 
on the charming, placid Mediterranean. Its 
changing colors and light are reflected high up 
on to the cliflfs, along which we are driving. W^e 
regard with new pleasure the harbor of 
Villefranche, beyond which ships and yachts move 
quietly on the sea. The mariners look up at us, 
as though envious of our more lofty and 
pleasurable course. The atmosphere being clear 
and the sun in a favorable position, we see the 
faintest indication of the broad, gray, granite 
chain of mountains, which rise from seven to nine 
thousand feet in distant Corsica. Another refuge, 
Eza, although perched at a considerable height 
from the sea, now lies below our elevated road. 
Breathing the exhilarating mountain air, 
tempered by the breezes that rise from the sea, we 
look about at all that is beautiful in nature, and 
realize the privilege of travel and change of scene. 

We are moving along at a quick pace when 

146 



JOLIFFE 

Francois perceives something in the road. He 
draws up the horses and runs back. When he 
returns he is smiling, and triumphantly displays 
another worn horseshoe, saying: "I shall place 
this with the one I found at Cagnes. I have it 
still here in the box. You know, I have faith 
in such a shoe. We are indeed fortunate to-day." 
Going along more quietly now, Francois and 
Gaston hold a conversation, much of which is in 
tones loud enough to be overheard by us. Gaston 
is always ready to learn something, if nothing of 
more importance, even the contents of a package 
handed him for us. Now they are speaking about 
the shrine by the wayside, the people passing us 
and their religions. Francois dwells on faith, and 
that is sufficiently new for Gaston, for he, a 
Corsican, in his boyhood wandered over his native 
hills and mountains with little opportunity to 
learn much about the welfare of man's soul. When 
just a mom.ent ago we espied faintly the highlands 
of Corsica, Gaston sighed and informed us of 
its superiority over all other islands. "It was not 
the fault of the priests in those hills that I did 
not learn more. They tried to instruct me, but 
I could not understand all they wanted me to 
believe. I kept up, however, my interest in 
religion and the church. There always have been 
many things which I cannot accept. I have seen 
in every land where I have traveled people 

147 



STRANGE BEUEFS 

trusting in relics. I can believe in a horseshoe, 
but hair, water and teeth, no ; I can't see any sense 
in worshiping them. 

"At nineteen years of age Hamid Ben Amur 
and I were serving as dragomen at the English 
consulate at Nice, when an English officer 
engaged us both to go out to India with him. I 
remained ten months in that captain's service, and 
saw many wonderful evidences of faith among 
the Hindus. Then I had an opportunity of 
returning to Europe in the retinue of a Maharajah. 
Just imagine, after serving him daily as barber 
■my principal duty was to look carefully after a 
collection of jugs of water, which he believed to 
be holy. It w^as simply water from the sacred 
river Ganges, and not very clean at that, yet its 
possession was a consolation to that importaht 
man. Daily he used a few drops of it when at 
prayer. It was a potent feature in that 
Maharajah's faith. Since then I have no longer 
been astonished at the strange beliefs of people 
throughout the world. I remember well visiting 
a woman in a forest north of Frejus, who had an 
infant in a cradle. She showed me a beautifully 
ornamented candle, with colored and gilded 
figures, w^hich she said had protected her child 
during a thunder storm. That was her faith. I 
bought one of those candles." 

Here the conversation was interrupted by 

148 



JOLIFFE 

jingling bells and clouds of dust, rising from a 
Hock of sheep, accompanied by a picturesque 
shepherd, with a Pandian pipe and a little leathern 
bag hanging on his breast. Francois informed us 
that that was his talisman, and then resumed 
talking to Gaston about the protecting saints. 
Among the category of these remarkable beings 
are to be found a patron for every calling or 
])rofession, cabinetmakers, hunters, mariners and 
a host of others. "Think, Gaston," said he, "what a 
blessing from heaven it is that each occupation 
has some special saint in whom those who are 
engaged in it may trust. It is often this faith in 
their protecting saint that encourages some men 
to stem the tide of the troublesome stream of life. 
How would they ever have exterminated the 
snakes from Ireland had it not been for St. 
Patrick?" 

Gaston could not answer that, but, becoming 
more interested in the question of saintly patrons, 
he said to Francois : "You speak of so many 
patron saints, which is yours?" 

Francois, as coachman, replied: "We follow an 
occupation which the holy fathers seem almost 
to have overlooked. I know that we have not an 
individual special patron. We are obliged to share 
the protection promised by Saint Eloi to 
watchmakers, blacksmiths and harnessmakers, so 
I look for help from all the holy beings that have 

149 



PRIESTS ON THE CORNICHE 

gone before." ''You are not difficult to please/' 
said Gaston. 

Several times we met priests returning from 
Laghetto, occasionally one alone, and when alone, 
reading his manual of prayer. Priests either of 
colleges or of congregations, generally walked 
three together. It is even desired that two go 
not out together. We asked Francois why that 
was. 

He repHed : "When one is alone he occupies 
himself with his manual, that his eyes may not 
regard too much the things of this world, and 
that his mind may not be influenced by earthly 
sinful thoughts. Two might be planning 
mischief, and no one being present to witness their 
error, it might be unknown to the Church and 
they would not have the benefit of correction. 
With three the inference is that, conscious that one 
or another might betray them, their conversation 
is more likely to be on spiritual matters." 

Francois now turned round to us and said he 
had an interesting incident to relate. "Some very 
pious people," said he, "among the Catholics of 
Southern France, believe that meeting a priest in 
his soutane on the highway may cause them 
misfortune ; they also believe that everyone 
should employ something to protect them at such 
a moment. They teach their children that to 
counteract the evil effect of such an occurrence it 

150 



JOUFFE 

suffices to be able to touch iron at the moment 
that a priest comes their way. Many CathoHcs, 
believing firmly in this absurd idea/and not having 
anything in iron about them, run to the nearest 
iron lamp-post and touch it. One day an old lady, 
very superstitious, met three clergymen on the 
road; one of the priests, a very amiable man, 
seeing that the woman searched in her pocket in 
vain for something in iron, and noticing her 
embarrassment, quickly approached her and 
offered her the key of his cell. With an expression 
of surprise she accepted his polite attention, 
touched the key, gave a sigh of relief and went 
on her way, assured that all was right." 

Francois had a high opinion of his denominatioUj 
yet he wished to impress upon us that these men 
with their open books on the public thoroughfares 
did not always represent the church. 

"The devout are not all on the road," he said, 
"there are many faithful men and women, who, 
hidden from the world in hospitals and cloisters, 
are serving humanity and God. In centuries past 
such men as Thomas a Kempis gave to the world 
precious precepts, kind messages of counsel. 
Their words have ever been encouraging to those 
who have faith." 

Again a few minutes rest for the horses. 
Francois drew up to VN^ater them at a spring in 

151 



THE MENDICANT 

a fissure of the rocks, a sacred fountain. We 
had to wait a Httle, as a party of Belgians were 
ah-eady drinking of the water. Cut in the rock 
was an address to women : "Ye women that drink 
with faith shall be blessed, and your offspring 
shall be with you at the last day." 

A mendicant in the guise of a poor showman 
now approached our coach. Francois, alwavs 
ready for any entertainment kept the horses close 
to the rocks, that the road might be free for 
others to pass. The old man then went through a 
performance with a number of marmots, which 
climbed over his arms and shoulders, out and in 
of his pockets, and cut up some antics on a 
tambourine. In countries north of the Alpes 
Maritimes these little animals sleep all winter ; here 
in this climate the sunshine enables them to enjov 
the whole year round. They do sleep even here, 
but the man said he roused them up whenever 
he had an opportunity to earn a few centimes 
He then broached the subject nearest to his heart. 
''Charity, if you please,'' said he, to which we 
responded in a satisfactory manner. Now Francois 
took his turn of interrogation, saying: "My man, 
why do you follow such a means of supporting 
yourself?" The beggar repHed : "I thought at 
one time that I had faith and that by Saint 
Anthony or Saint Hubert or Saint Thaddeus I 
might gain something. Of course I always ask for 

152 



JOUFFE 

money. But all those holy beings whom I then 
addressed in earnest prayer seem to have been deaf 
to my entreaties, so my faith grew cold, and that 
accounts for my becoming a mendicant. I still 
have faith enough to make the sign of the cross 
three times daily, so that I may not have so long- 
to stay in purgatory. I am, however, convinced 
that man's happiness or his success in life depends 
in a great measure on the degree of his faith in 
divine power or in his occupation. You must 
have met a shepherd who went the way you have 
come about a half an hour ago. You saw, no 
doubt, how he left the sheep to the care of his 
dogs ; with his head proudly in air, he trusted 
in their wisdom. There was no fear in that 
man's heart, either. Can you imagine why? In 
a little lizard skin pouch on his breast he has 
what he believes to be a piece of the true cross. 
It is Til the saving value of that reliquary 
that he has placed his faith. Three days ago at 
La Tourbie I saw and spoke with a Moslem who 
braves all the trials of this life because he has 
bound on his arms a fiat morocco case containing 
for him a precious amulet. He believes that it 
contains a single hair of the beard of his prophet. 
That suffices for him ; therefore he walks 
fearlessly. Such again is faith. 

"You must know that to place his faith man 
has from all time endeavored to penetrate the veil 

153 



SUCH IS FAITH 

which hides from him the very knowledge he 
desires, and that is, where to place his faith. Some 
have chosen trees, rocks, plants and stars. The 
ancient Romans had even faith in a piece of wood 
scorched by lightning in a house that had been 
struck by that sacred fire from heaven. At one 
time, without any instruction, I placed my faith 
in the stars, like Esquimaux, Greeks and Persians. 
What did it serve me ? I met others who wondered 
at the mysteries of the firmament, yet they 
laughed at the idea of any divine residence there. 
I listened to a wise Assyrian who would dissuade 
me from such thoughts ; I therefore sought 
elsewhere to place my unstable faith. At one time 
I imagined that I had found an enduring source 
of consolation. I occasionally met an East 
Indian whose conversation enchanted me. During 
some hours every day he related his oriental 
experiences to me and when violent pains racked 
my frame he gave me instant relief. He simply 
said a few words over me and applied an amulet 
to my body. He said it contained fetiches, 
principally the claws of wild animals that had been 
inoculated with mysterious power, yet I found 
that those fetich men are also human ; they, too, 
must die and alas! the virtues of such amulets 
descend into the grave with those who have 
employed them, if they ever had any power. 
''Truly I envy you Christians, for I have 

154 



JOLIFFE 

learned that you have an abiding faith. What a 
wonderful power it is ! When I was among those 
who were teaching your religion to people who 
only believed in amulets and spells there was a boy 
who worked as a servant to the priests. Little 
by little that boy became convinced of the truth 
of the Christian religion. Although he offered 
to accept that belief, his teachers feared that his 
father who adored fetiches, would force his son 
to retract and to bow down again to his idols. 
The boy, hearing this, answered : 'I have found 
your faith, and should my father threaten to burn 
me, then shall I reply : "Burn m.e quickly, for so 
shall I sooner be with Christ. I have faith." ' '' 

Leaving the mendicant to pursue his avocation, 
we continued on our way, passing now and then 
shrines in painted wood, in masonry, and others 
cut rudely in the rocks. We now took the lower 
road to Monaco, and after an hour's visit to Monte 
Carlo, in which we have no faith, we proceeded 
to Rocquebrune. 



155 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

ROCQUEBRUNE. 

Continually seeking points of interest we 
decided to stop for two nights and a day at 
Rocquebrune, and then by the upper road to go 
back to La Tourbie. Rocquebrune is situated on 
a high, rocky hill. On arriving at the base we 
were compelled to mount afoot, while Francois 
found accommodation below. The proprietor of 
the inn, to whom we had written, made us very 
comfortable, although the place was thronged 
with pilgrims. This village, perched on rugged 
rocks, belonged to the ancient possessions of the 
Lascaris. The ruins of their once imposing castle 
now stand on the summit. Tradition states that 
formerly by a convulsion of nature the hamlet 
was separated from the higher ledge of rocks. 
It proved a pleasant resting place and added 
material to our souvenirs of evidences of faith. We 
happily arrived just in time to see the annual fete 
and procession, given very much as in the 
mediaeval ages. Within the Church of Saint Martin 
de Rocquebrune the pilgrims bowed before 
Michael Angelo's Last Judgment, and as they 
prayed they frequently renewed their faith. After 
dark a very impressive ceremony took place upon 

156 



JOLIFFE 

the cliff from which Rocquebrune had originally 
slipped down. Attendants awaited the orders 
from the priests, and when darkness fully 
prevailed they kindled an enormous bonfire. Then 
the multitude fell on their knees and received 
absolution from the sins of the year. In the crowd 
Gaston, much to his surprise, met his old fellow 
traveler, Hamid Ben Amur, the Tunisian. In the 
early morning Hamid came to see us. He had been 
living at Mentone, keeping a bazaar of carpets 
and embroideries made in his own country. 
Impressed by the ceremony of the night, he was 
easily drawn out on the beliefs of his own people, 
in fact, he remarked voluntarily that the peculiar 
evidence of faith of those simple-hearted people 
reminded him of his own race. "You must 
know," said Hamid, "that faith has a wonderful 
power on the mind when once it has found a 
place in the heart of man. There are some 
beliefs that are only held by the ignorant of all 
nations. Many of our Mussulmans have faith 
that the prophet will at the last day raise them 
to paradise by the mesh of hair which the devout 
leave on the back of the crown of the head, the 
rest of the head being shaved. There is no use 
in disputing that fallacy with the Mussulman ; it 
is his belief, and faith in his opinion, fits him for 
eternal life. Alas ! the inherent desire for money 
rules in the hearts of even those who profess to 

157 



ROCQUEBRUNE 

teach us to do aright. We see an instance of that 
in the saddest rites of the Mohammedans. In a 
funeral procession the body of the deceased is 
often carried on a Htter, and is always wrapped 
in a cloth and buried without being otherwise 
enclosed, so that it may be ready for the last day. 
At the grave, after some ceremonies the friends 
retire some distance from the Immum, who is left 
alone with the dead. At the last moment the 
Immum speaks in the ear of the inanimate body, 
saying: ''Where art thou, now, Ali (or whatever 
the name may be), art thou in Paradise, or dost 
thou tarry elsewhere?' Then, turning to the 
mourners and those assembled, speaking aloud, 
he makes an announcement, favorable or 
otherwise, in proportion to the remuneration he 
may have received. I must acknowledge," said 
Hamid, "that the Catholic priests in the ceremony 
of last night were sincere. No sentiment could 
have been more beautiful than that the offenses 
of the penitent were consumed in those cinders, 
and that the fumes which rose from those 
burning embers bore to heaven the record of the 
penitence of all who sincerely participated. Yet 
after all I, Hamid, am grateful that we have our 
prophet. It just amounts, honored sir, to this : 
You have your Christ, and we have the Mediator 
and Counsellor whom God in His mercy sent to 

158 



JOIvIFFE 

us. At least we so believe. We are both 
content in our faith. 

"But instead of preaching I shall be on my 
Vv^ay to Mentone." Hamid seemed pleased to 
meet his old companion, Gaston, and thev 
expressed regrets at parting. After Hamid was 
gone we visited the dungeon of the feudal chateau. 
Even to-day that castle appeals to visitors 
of sufficient imagination, telling them of many 
that died in those vaults in faith. It certainly is 
a reminder of unholy persecutions. 

On leaving Rocquebrune fortunately Francois 
had confidence in his horses and in his power of 
guiding them, for at times both the descent and 
ascent of our way was steep. We easily arrived 
before noon at La Tourbie, finding an apartment 
in order for us. 



159 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

LA TOURBIE— AHMED ALECO 
SHEREEFE. 

On the second day we already felt the effects 
of the pure and invigorating air. We were soon 
assured that we had made a favorable choice of 
location. When walking out on the rocks we 
surveyed the horizon to the east and to the west. 
La Tourbie commands one of the fine points of 
view on all the litoral. To the east beyond 
Bordighera we saw numerous promontories 
between us and Genoa, in Italy. Sometimes early 
in the morning at sunrise we espied the range of 
mountains of the Maures and on the west many of 
the mountains of the x\lpes Maritimes, already 
mentioned. In the evening by the setting sun 
we could see many points in that direction as far 
as the Estrelle. La Tourbie until mediaeval times 
was the frontier between the Cis-Alpine and the 
Trans-Alpine provinces. The massive remains 
of the square tower of the Emperor Augustus are 
still there, though many stones were removed to 
build the shrine in the ravine below, and in the 
chateau on the hill at Nice. Another tower once 
stood above it, thought to have been the triumphal 
souvenir Augustus erected to commemorate 

160 



JOLIFFE 

victories over the aboriginal inhabitants of the 
Alps, though it has 1)een suggested that the Guelfs 
raised that tower from some of the debris of the 
earlier work of Augustus. We soon made valuable 
acquaintances, as do all cosmopolitans who 
enjoy society, for at La Tourbie we met a number 
of interesting people. Having lived among 
Mohammedans, in their own countries, we have 
often profited by conversations with them. Here it 
was our pleasure to be introduced to an Arab, 
Ahmed x\leco Shereefe, who had occupied a 
diplomatic position on the island of Crete, south of 
the ^gean Sea. He knew that Island thoroughly, 
having ridden on his own Arabian horse from 
Kisamo to Kastelli on the northwest to Eremopoli 
on the east. He had lived at Candia, Canea and 
Retimo. Previous to and during the political 
disturbances between Turkey and Greece he had 
in some way incurred the displeasure of the 
Sultan, he left Canea after the fatal Moslem attack 
on the British forces then on the island. A large 
party of 50,000 Mohammedans, speaking Greek, 
were in rebellion. Although the constitution 
of Halepa had been restored, the Greek Christians 
were not satisfied with the proportion of their 
representation in the governing assembly, nor 
with the parliamentary regime. Aleco had 
chosen La Tourbie for a season of repose. We 
frequently walked together to the favorite resort 

161 



AHMED ALECO SHEREEFE. 

of the temporary residents, "La tete clii chien," 
a rocky point projecting towards the sea above 
Monaco. There stands a colossal stone figure of 
St. Telme. The mariners of this midland sea, the 
waters of which break upon the southern shores 
of France, have double faith. They believe 
fervently in this patron, whom they know as St. 
Elme, yet their faith after all is really in the 
compass. 

Such was not exactly the opinion of Francois, 
who one day said: ''Think how mariners go out 
on that ocean with confidence and faith after 
praying at the shrine of Notre Dame de la Garde, 
at Marseilles. Here again when they pass near 
enough, they look up, implore a blessing and 
renew their faith. 

While we breathe the delightful air and enjoy 
the view, Aleco relates many remarkable incidents 
of his career, and gives us much information 
in regard to his rehgion. He referred to the 
Mussulman's faith in the prophet's word and law ; 
even the wretched yet respected Pariah dogs were 
mentioned. From all time many of these dogs 
have through curiosity loitered around the revered 
premises on the day of the departure of the holy 
carpet, and having touched the sacred camel they 
are thereafter considered sacred, as no one can 
distinguish those dogs that thus have become 
blessed, the law of the church commands that all 

162 



JOUFFE 

dogs be spared from abuse and kindly treated. 
To kill one of these dogs would be a capital 
offense. Especially were we entertained when 
Aleco spoke to us of the celebration of the 
departure of the sacred carpet for Mecca, at which 
I had myself assisted at Constantinople, near the 
Sultan's palace at Kildiz. The first thing 
accomplished in that ceremony is to place on the 
back of the camel a small treasure case containing 
a portion of the garment of Mahomet, which on 
his death was deposited with the chief priest of 
Islam and is always carefully guarded in a vault in 
the Sultan's palace, he being the head of Islam. 
This piece of the sacred garment is thus sent to 
Mecca and it returns every year. After all the 
ceremonies attendant on this occasion the camel is 
blessed by the Immum, the true chief priest of 
Islam. Those oriental beasts of burden, once 
laden with the heavy carpet, sway their heads and 
bodies from side to side, and when they thus 
become heated a very pungent odor is emitted. On 
these occasions women in embroidered bernous 
and faces veiled below their eyes, approach 
reverently the laden camel and, reaching out their 

LA TOURBIE— ALECO. 

arms at length, they touch the breast of the sacred 
animal with their handkerchiefs, which they then 
consign, as blessed, to a place of security in their 

163 



LA TOURBIE. 

bosoms. Aleco told us that they guarded these 
sacred souvenirs of that important occasion with 
the assurance in faith that so long as they kept 
them in safety a blessing would attend them. 

"You see," continued Aleco, "that our lives are 
guided by the great precepts given to us by 
Mahomet. He hath said in the Koran, 'This is a 
revelation from the wise and knowing God, that 
ye serve not any other than God, and that ye ask 
pardon of your Lord, and then, being turned to 
Him, He will cause you to enjoy a plentiful 
provision of what in His judgment is good. Unto 
everyone that by good works doth merit his 
abundant reward it shall be given, provided he 
hath faith.' My friends, you must recognize the 
difference betv/een credulity and faith. Our 
Mussulmans have great and well-founded faith, 
yet there are some superstitious people among all 
races. ivlythological tradition has taught our 
people that Constantinople is built over a cave and 
that it is supported by the horns of a great ox, 
the son of lo. When an earthquake occurs old 
crones say 'O ! the ox is uneasy ; he is moving 
his horns.' This myth originated in Argolide in 
ancient Greece. The Greeks gave to the strait 
which unites the Black Sea with the Sea of 
Marmora, the name of 'the Bosphorus.' The 
etymology of the word signifies the passage of the 
, ox or beef. It was there that Princess lo, daughter 

164 



JOUFFE 

of Inochus, was transformed into a cow. lo, 
the cow, swam through the sea and, taking up 
her residence in a subterranean cave, there gave 
birth to the ox, to which is attributed the seismic 
trembhngs of the city of the Golden Horn. 
Notwithstanding this subterranean adventure, lo 
or Callythia was also known as the moon, that 
planet when in its first quarter with upturned 
points, keeping up the legend of the horn. You 
recognize this as a tradition, a legend. I feel I must 
give vou truth that 3-0U may better understand 
something of our belief. IMahomet gave in his 
Koran to man the doctrine that from all time 
there is and has been only one true God, in whom 
men are called upon to place their faith. Yet 
IMahomet demanded something more of his 
follow^ers. He asked them to believe in those whom 
God from time to time hath sent to make known 
his will and his laws. Mahomet was in that sense 
the prophet of God. Faith is known in Islamism 
as Iman ; therefore Mussulmans say: 'If thou 
wouldst be stronger in thine Iman ask Mahomet to 
give thee the opportunity to make the pilgrimage 
to Mecca, then mayst thou find eternal life 
and seal thy faith in the prophet.' Many men 
are narrow and apt to be unjust when they 
suppose that only Christians have the true faith. 
What is it that maintains millions of Mussulmans 
in days of danger, in moments of trial and the 

1G5 



LA TOURBIE. 

agony of battle? It is their assurance that in 
this life we only are tarrying awhile; it is their 
belief in a general resurrection, when none shall 
be forgotten, a day of judgment for all and their 
implicit faith in Mahomet, who shall at the last 
day receive them into Paradise, a garden with 
rivers of incorruptible waters, abounding with 
fruits, wine, honey and milk, an abode where 
those who shall be admitted may walk in the 
shade of aromatic trees and be forever with their 
prophet. 



]66 



CHAPTER XXX. 

LA TOURBIE— SAMUEL. 

Until now we had had almost uninterrupted 
conversation with Aleco. We, however, found 
much that was instructive from others who 
congregated on the Tete du Chien. 

One morning we were observing with our field 
glasses a number of fishermen, part of them in 
boats, their comrades on the beach drawing the 
net in a little bay beyond the Condamine, in the 
direction of Mentone. Although interested in 
the fishermen, our attention was distracted from 
the men in the boat by an old man who held up 
som.e of his wares between us and the view. We 
soon learned that his name was Samuel. He 
came daily to the point of rocks, where he was 
certain of meeting clients. His physiognomy 
betrayed his race, and a few words of solicitation 
to purchase his merchandise explained his errand. 
He at first offered us one of many Tanagra 
subjects. Samuel was an Israelite of Athens, and 
although a Greek, had long resided in Italy, and 
spoke that language. Like most of his race, he 
had not created the artistic figures he offered for 
sale. He was not an artist; he was merely a 
trader, and a pedler at that ; yet he was one who 

167 



SAMUEL— TANAGRA FIGURES 

from childhood had formed an intimate 
acquaintance with those miniature Tanagra 
figures, so perfectly did he know them that he 
could easily procure and dispose of fraudulent 
imitations. Like many of his brethren, while 
gaining his livelihood, he was also seeing the 
world, though he frequently spoke to us of the 
charming scenes which had also interested us 
when we lived in his classic countrv. He had lono- 
since learned how to deal with the 
different nationaHties. One figure after 
another was displayed, until we found 
we were in an open-air museum. These figures, 
single or in groups, are from five to eight inches 
in height ; they were made during several 
centuries. The best examples are of the sixth and 
seventh centuries B. C. There were fewer groups 
than single figures. Frequently there were 
statuettes representing young women, which were 
placed in the tombs of departed relations to 
render less lonely the occupancy of that dreaded 
resting place. There are some masks and satyrs. 
The masks were rendered as horrible as possible, 
with the idea that they might frighten the 
sorcerers in case they came to trouble the repose 
of the dead. There were sitting figures, almost 
always draped, those of women are almost always 
in a chemise and a shawl ; other figures represented 
scenes in social life, though mythology was 

168 



JOUFFE 

less represented, such figures have been found as 
Mercury conducting a corpse to the barque of 
Charon, who transported them to Inferno, 
preparing them for future suffering by scorching 
them on the way. Samuel had a weakness for' 
Venus and Cupid. He had also scenes of the 
toilet, of the kitchen and even of bread bakers. 
A young woman seated by an aged blind man ; 
Artemis, the huntress, with a Phrygian biretto ; 
Silenus, seated. Leda, the queen of Sparta ; 
Zeus, a flute player, etc., etc. 

He informed us that the fabricants of these 
figures had the bodies already made. When a 
daughter was taken by death from a family the 
mother had the artist place a head to her liking 
on one of these figures, chosen from the collection 
the artist had ready. In the case of an actor or 
an actress the figures were always represented 
with a mask, indicating their profession and at 
the same time serving to chase away the evil 
spirits. All these figures found in the tombs 
were originally colored. With the ravages of 
time most all are faded. 

After several days acquaintance and -a number 
of purchases on our part, Samuel gave us a 
description of many of these terra cotta figures on 
the Christian tombs. He also gave us much of 
his own history and entertained us with facts 
of men and places he had visited. Many and 

169 



SAMUEL— PERSIAN GEMS 

various were the objects Samuel offered us. On 
exhibiting two curiously engraved Gnostic stones 
he remarked: "I see that the subject of faith 
particularly attracts your attention. Here is 
evidence of one of the strangest of faiths. Once 
the Gnostics received those mystically ornamented 
tokens from their priests, placed them on their 
breasts or bound them on their arms, and in faith 
no longer feared evil or accident. After all, was 
not that more reasonable than to do as some 
South Sea Islanders do, who tattoo mysterious 
signs on their bodies in faith that thereby they 
shall be preserved from danger. Our antiquary 
also carried in a small leather case a number of 
Persian, Greek and other intaglios, mythological 
subjects on sards, carnelians and agates. Some 
of them were mounted in ancient gold rings, and 
so he continued to entertain us from day to day. 
"You see this crocodile," he said one morning, ''in 
pale green terra cotta ; in the days of prosperity 
in ancient Egypt there were many princes who 
placed their faith in the mummies of crocodiles. 
They believed that the spirit of that reptile which 
they had feared in life had gone to be with the 
god Sebac, for Sebac looked on them with the 
eyes of a crocodile from a crocodile's head. I 
am forgetting that I am a merchant," said Samuel. 
''I have been giving you art information, 
and yet before I offer to sell you anything more 

170 



JOLIFFE 

allow me to turn to my religious belief. We 
cling to the traditions of our forefathers. I have 
heard what you have said in your conversation 
with the gentleman concerning the tombs of the 
Arabs and their customs. Will you, perhaps, care 
to know that the Israelites pay great attention 
to the burial of their dead? They always 
take care of the sepulchres where their loved ones 
are placed. Thus they feel near them, although 
separated by death. We honor those who render 
the dead the last service, we feel it a duty to care 
for an Israelite's grave, even though all his friends 
be gone and he unknown. Our race have had 
some ceremonies that no doubt would seem very 
strange to you. At an interment the friends, 
before they leave the grave, throw in stones, and 
I have heard my own people say that formerly 
when throwing in stones they repeated these 
words, addressing the deceased : "If the Son of 
the carpenter comes, there are stones to cast at 
Him; if the son of Moses comes you will salute 
him three times.' 

"Once our people had great faith in Moses, 
lyittle by little my admiration and my hopes in 
him have diminished. We long believed that the 
only true law was that of Moses. In time we 
have doubted. You have noticed that we do not 
call ourselves Hebrews. We are IsraeHtes! 
When we had our nation and our loved Jerusalem 

171 



EMERALD OF THE VATICAN 

we were proud to be Hebrews. vSince the captivity 
of our people, the children of Israel, we are 
known as Israelites, and we are satisfied to lie 
down in the most unpretentious graves. What 
are we after all? What does it signify that we 
be sumptuously entombed? I saw in Paris the 
architecture of a house that had served as part of 
a Roman sepulchre ; again I saw the lintel over 
the door of an edifice in that great city; upon 
closer inspection I discovered that beautifully 
ornamented stone to be a Roman sarcophagus of 
the fourth century, A. D. It was eight feet in 
length and three feet in breadth ; that stone had 
been unearthed from an ancient cemetery. The 
builders had appropriated it by turning the 
hollow side inwards, while its ornamented exterior 
formed the decoration of the principal door of the 
mansion they were building". 

You have looked at all these Tanagra figures 
and ancient subjects in terra cotta with the 
most marked attention. Here is a reproduction 
in what is called antique paste. It is in green 
glass, a copy of the so-called emerald of the 
Vatican, said to have been cut by the order of the 
Emperor Tiberius. The legend is that the original 
was taken out of the treasury vault at 
Constantinople and was delivered to Pope 
Innocent VIII as a ransom for the Emperor of the 
Turks, at that time a prisoner in the hands of the 

172 



JOLIFFE 

Christians. Publius Lentulus spoke of Christ 
at that time to the Senate and the 
Roman people, saying: "This man, Christ, 
who is Hving- among us, is said to be 
the Son of God ! He is of imposing figure, 
all who meet Him cannot fail to admire Him ; 
there are those w^ho fear Him. His countenance 
is commanding, His eyes are clear and full of 
life. He is friendly and engaging, moderate 
in discourse. Wisdom and modesty blend with 
dignity. His character and personal beauty excel 
all human creatures. I show you this on account 
of the interest antiquarians have always 
entertained for this subject. I know that you have 
ancient antique pastes in your collection. I am 
always looking for such gems when I go to my 
native land. At times I have returned to the 
Piraeus, the port of Athens, I have spoken with 
men of my race. Once an old Rabbi of the 
tabernacle, who had known me in the synagogue 
in my father's time, meeting me one day at the 
Parthenon at Athens, asked : 'Why do you not 
cease your trading abroad, Samuel, and return to 
us ? We are the companions of your faith. Hear us, 
O, son of Israel ; come at least and celebrate the 
Passover with us. I did not and have not 
relented ; my faith has grown cold. In my youth 
I read in the Talmud the story of Sandelphon. 
He of glory and of prayer once attracted my soul, 

173 



SAMUEL'S FAITH 

but years of travel and bartering have not left 
my faith unsullied as it was in boyhood. I regret 
it, Signor; I see that those are happier who 
have a faith to lean upon. Ours is the faith of 
Abraham. The epistle to the Galatians in your 
Book saith : 'So then they which be of faith are 
blessed with faithful Abraham.' I have heard 
the honorable Signor, alas! my trust and that 
of my people has weakened. Formerly my 
ancestors believed and earnestly looked forward to 
a promised Messiah, yet we are forced to believe 
that he never manifested himself to man, at least, 
in our belief, He hath not yet appeared to us. 
Disappointment has cooled my ardor. I begin to 
perceive since I have traveled among Christians, 
that they find comfort in their faith." 

As we generally bought something of Samuel, 
his faith in me as a good customer, became well 
founded. I also chose a few gems from his 
leathern case. It was from him that I procured the 
beautiful Persian intaglio portrait of Sapor, with 
Sassanian inscription. I also secured one of his 
Phoenician intaglios now in my collection in the 
University of Pennsylvania. 

After one of our interviews Samuel said : "My 
interest in all the objects executed by the ancients 
has caused me to inform myself in regard to the 
monuments and public works of the people who 
once occupied this litoral, and thus I have acquired 

174 



JOUFFE 

much of the history of the Roman occupation of 
these heights. 

*'The splendid road near which was erected 
the tower of Augustus was one of the important 
avenues which extended Rome's influence from 
the East even to Aries, in the west in Southern 
France. Throughout that route there are 
remains at Cimiez, Frejus, Nimes and Aries of 
great stone arenas and other colossal evidences 
of the occupation of the Latin race. This road 
throughout its entire extent had towers about 
forty minutes apart, bearing the names of its 
successive rulers, consuls and other officers who 
continued and finally accomplished the work. 
Some of the milestones on the great road also 
contributed their share to the foundation of the 
asylum of Laghetto. It was here that the scenes of 
the last contests of the original inhabitants of the 
Alpes Maritimes occurred in defense of their 
independence, and here they were conquered by 
the Romans. We have traditions, and historians 
speak of those battles as the last struggles of the 
local patriots. The heights around Laghetto 
have long been called 'Battle Mountains.' 

*'The Romans worked a quarry here, where 
several hundred workmen were employed to get 
out the stones for the road and to erect the 
monument to Augustus. In that quarry an 
aperture discloses a cavern rich in salactites. On 

175 



TOWER OF AUGUSTUS 

the top of the column to the Emperor Augustus 
was a colossal figure of that ruler and warrior, 
the head of which was of great dimensions, being 
twenty-two feet in height by eleven in breadth. 
That tower of Augustus was indeed solidly built, 
as so much of it has resisted the attack of 
Saracens, Guelfs and Gibelines." 



176 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

FRANCOIS— MADAGASCAR. 

One evening after hearing Aleco and Samuel, 
Francois and Gaston were telling one another 
what they had seen in Eastern countries. Francois 
seemed to be giving one of his discourses on 
divers beliefs. We heard him say: ''I have 
listened to all these incidents of different faiths 
given by Aleco and Samuel. Through their 
word pictures I have visited the cemeteries of 
the nations and tribes of which they have spoken. 

"Through the force of narrow education and 
prejudice we are naturally apt to think that the 
whole world must believe in Christ and the Holy 
Virgin. By my residence in other continents I 
have had opportunities to look about me and 
inform myself. 

"I was born at Clermont Ferrand and was 
conscripted at Mont-Brison, where I had served 
in the church. After some instruction and service 
the second regiment of infantry, to which I 
])elonged, was transferred to Marseilles, and then 
we went by the Suez Canal to Madagascar, where 
v;e first landed at Diego-Suarez. After 
remaining there for three months for drill in the 
ranks the colonel of the regiment took me as his 

177 



F^RANCOIS^ STORY 

orderly. While in Madagascar I saw much to 
cause me to reflect on my early religious 
education. I saw the adoration of the invisible 
Amdriamaro, the deity whom the natives suppose 
dwells in Malaferly, for that is the imaginary 
residence of Amdriamaro. 

''When I or the missionaries attempted to tell 
those poor benighted people of Christ, they looked 
strangely at us and listened incredulously, just as 
I once did at the Mussulman, who told me of the 
sepulchre of a prince and prophet at Sirinagar 
in Cashmere. That man assured me that the 
tomb of our Saviour was there, and that Christ 
never died on the cross at Calvary. He only 
fainted there and was then transported to India. 
In the minds and hearts of those people in 
Madagascar, Amdriamaro was Christ. The 
missionaries could not convince the adults that 
there had ever appeared on earth another 
God-man, believing on whom they might be 
eternally happy. All they could do was to interest 
the children, and by kindness to them, induce 
them to learn our language and to listen to them 
while they related the story of our Redeemer. 

"The island of Madagascar is extensive and is 
inhabited by many tribes of different origin. In 
Diego- Suarez, where I was principally stationed, 
the aborigines had their own peculiar customs, and 
especially those of burial. The body, wrapped 
together. 

17i 



JOLIFFE 

in a cloth, was placed in the grave when those 
present, after each throwing in a handful of dirt, 
marched around the grave, throwing in stones, 
always leaving an aperture at the head, so that the 
deceased could reach some rum, of which they 
placed a large bottle, and a drinking glass. I 
perhaps should not reveal one fact, but I'll tell 
you, Gaston, we soldiers sometimes tasted that 
rum, which we well knew could never serve the 
inanimate tenant. 

''While on the island I was stationed among 
four tribes. In Betsimisaraka the members of 
the family wrapped the body in a cotton cloth, 
called Xamba.' They wound it on as one does a 
surgical bandage, beginning with the hands and 
arms. They also deposited some taco, or rum, 
and two candles. 

"The Antaimoros are very particular about the 
burial of their own people. Some of them at 
certain seasons of the year leave their homes and 
go into other provinces on the island as cooks or 
domestic servants. In case one of them dies 
when away from home his friends bury him 
temporarily and secretly outside the town where 
they work. They do not want the French 
Government to know where they have placed the 
body. In their faith they are taught that some 
day Amdriamaro shall call all the devout to him, 
they therefore try to keep all the dead near. 

179 



STRANGE BURIALS 

"When the rice is ripe in their own country 
they always quit these temporary employments. 
Then they take up the bodies of their friends and 
carry them to their native villages. Such is their 
faith ! They have a sacred tree to which they 
go for prayer when an infant is born in a family ; 
they cut off a little piece and on their knees ask 
for blessings and comforts to attend the life of 
the newly born. 

"Then among the Bara tribe, where we were 
stationed a short time, we saw some strange 
sights. When a man dies they saw off a great 
tree to a little above his height. They then hollow 
it out and place the body erect inside, leaving 
the upper part open. 

"At the entrance of most of their villages there 
are totems, carved wooden figures, grotesquely 
painted, often ten feet high. On leaving or 
entering their villages they always bow with 
reverence to them." 

GASTON SPEAKS. 

"Now," said Gaston, "I have found so much 
pleasure in what you have all related, I hope you 
may be interested in what I want to add to your 
incidents. My service with the English colonel 
in India, moving from one part of the country 
to another, gave me great opportunities of seeing 
strange ceremonies, customs and peculiar 



JOLIFFE 

evidences of faith. When we were quartered in the 
Punjab we occasionally had to go into Bengal, 
and particularly to Benares. We there frequently 
went down the River Ganges on a sampan, or 
small, partially covered boat. As we passed the 
city of Benares we saw the Hindus busy as bees 
on the shore, arranging the pyres, that they might 
consume the remains of their deceased relatives. 
Dealers in wood and combustibles were at hand, 
doing a thriving trade. While the pyres were 
being prepared the bodies were wrapped in cloths, 
men in white, the women in red. They were 
placed below the steep bank at the margin of the 
river, so that their feet might be in the sacred 
Ganges until all was ready to kindle the fire. At 
one time my colonel was called on military duty 
to Poona, the ancient capital of the Maratha, 
in the Bombay presidency. While there we went 
out to visit a Hindu temple, situated on a hilltop, 
accessible by a flight of steep steps, succeeded 
at intervals by rampes, inclined places with 
balustrades. Thus one reaches the top of the hill, 
where we saw shrines to the goddess Kartikeya- 
Durga, or Parbati, the wife of Shiva. Parbat 
signifies a mountain. Shiva is the lord of the 
Himalayas, and the Hindu Mars, Surya the sun 
and Vishnu. We were not allowed to enter, but 
were permitted to look through an iron grating 

181 



CREMATION OF A BRAHMIN PRIEST 

and saw glittering gold and silver effigies of 
Shiva, Ganesh and Parbati. 

"On our way down, when returning to Poona 
on a broad, flat rock beside a stream and near a 
waterfall, we saw a group of Hindus preparing 
to cremate a body of a Brahmin, who had expired 
that afternoon. They had built a funeral pyre 
of as many fagots of wood as they could gather ; 
each relative or friend was adding whatever 
combustible material he could find or afford. It 
seemed to be a matter of conscience, a sense of 
duty v/ith those devout Hindus. They felt that 
they should aid in the burning up of the mortal 
remains of that Brahmin, who in life had been 
their teacher, who during years had given them 
council ; in fact, their priest ; therefore they came 
from all the neighborhood, and in proportion to 
their meagre possessions, each contributed as 
much 'ghee' as he could spare. Ghee is made 
from butter, and contains spices and aromatic 
seeds, cinnamon, sandal wood, cardamun, 
coriander and even chocolate. It seems significant 
that they endeavored as quickly as possible to 
consume the mortal coil of their lifelong friend, 
for their faith had taught them that the spirit 
of their mentor had gone to the gods. He was 
already in the presence of Vishnu and Shiva." 

Gaston had his opinions and we were not 
surprised to hear him express them in this 

182 



JOUFFE 

connection. He said : ''I find that there is 
something reasonable in this manner of the 
disposal of the remains of the deceased ; there is 
the utter contempt for this tenement of clay ; once 
the spirit has departed they cremate the body in 
such a manner that not even the ashes can be 
preserved, for they are mingled with the cinders 
of the pyre. Yet these people do not forget that 
departed soul. Their faith is strong in the hope 
that they shall some day again walk and converse 
together in another and a better realm. 



183 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

LAGHETTO. 

Though much of our time is occupied in 
exam.ining the objects offered us by Samuel and 
the curious wares from Spain and Morocco, many 
other persons meet and entertain us. Among 
them we constantly hear reports of their visits 
to Laghetto. It appears to be almost hidden in 
a dell behind and below the towering ranges of 
rocks on which we dwell, and which shelter the 
sacred retreat from the winds of winter and from 
the heat of summ.er. We have recently listened 
Vvdth greater interest to the reports of travellers, 
remem.bering also what Bishop Merillon had said 
to Adelia. We find that some go there out of 
curiosity, others, though amused, are habitual 
scoffers, more numerous are they who, grateful 
for mercies personally received or who having 
witnessed such marvelous cures, could not cease 
to speak of the astonishing proofs of the power of 
faith daily, to be seen in that sacred retreat. 

We were not always on the rocks of the high 
point of view. Hours were spent in correspondence 
and reading. Recently in a biography of 
Louis XIV we found that when he was about to 
confer an order or decoration the recipient was 

184 



JOLIFFE 

required to renew his profession of faith before 
an altar. This fact interested us, for we now 
decided to accomplish a long-delayed excursion. 
We therefore prepared to descend into the ravine 
behind and below La Tourbie, where thousands 
arrive yearly from all directions to bow down in 
faith, awaiting a blessing of more importance to 
them than any royal decoration. The edifice we 
are about to visit down among these rocks has 
been erected by God-fearing men. How different 
that palace at Monte Carlo, that house of 
chance, the halls of which are dedicated to an 
erroneous faith, where, alas ! men place their 
reliance and risk their all at times in wheels of 
fortune. How sad that they find pleasure in such 
unreliable amusement. There the turning of a 
hand decides their fate. Who can divine if the 
hand will turn heavenward to hope or downward 
to despair, sometimes to the bitterness of utter 
ruin ? 

Clouds at sunrise obscured the morning sky, 
However, we knew the Riviera climate so well 
that we had faith that the sun would smile on our 
visit to much-renowned Laghetto. By 9 A. M. 
our way was bright. The immediate approach 
and entrance to the site of the sacred monument 
is over a heavily-groined bridge, across the 
mountain torrent, which here sweeps between and 
over great bowlders that are piled up in the chasm. 

185 



THE LIMPID FOUNTAIN 

At times great rains form cascades, the water 
dashes and breaks into spray, which reunites 

LAGHETTO. 

after faUing among the rocks below, when it 
flows away to Trinity Victor and through the 
Paillon into the great sea at the Baie des Anges. 
Although in a ravine the sanctuary is considerably 
elevated above the rocks in the cascade. The 
traveler arrives on a spacious place, or square, 
relieved by luxurious shade trees, on the right of 
which is a decorated stone lodge, where one can 
be relieved of the dust of the weary way. It is 
also well to prepare one's self through its 
moderate temperature before entering the asylum 
of I^aghetto, which, like all enclosed structures of 
marble, feels very cold to those heated from a long 
expedition on foot. There are periods of complete 
silence in the gorge; again at times the hamlet 
of Laghetto awakens, the voice of God is heard in 
the sound of the bells of the sanctuary, which 
finds an echo in the souls of those who are about 
to assemble and worship there. The northern 
angle of this place or square is enlivened and 
freshened by a fountain of limpid water, protected 
by an artificial grotto of masonry. In the crevices 
of its time-worn walls, vigorous vines had found 
foothold and literally draped the source of water, 
adding greatly to its beauty. Faithful men had 



JOLIFFE 

during more than three centuries kept that 
monument in repair. Over the fountain is a stone 
tablet with an inscription of which this is the 
sentiment : 
"Pilgrim, here canst thou drink from two 

sources ; 
Drink for the health of thy soul from the graces 

of the heaven-given Madonna, 
Or drink for thy temporal thirst of this water 

from the springs of the mountain ; 
Drink from both, if for both thou hast thirst. 
The year of the Lord, 1654." 

To the music of this water nature has added 
its tribute to the shrine, for with the early hours 
of the day, as if by common consent, the birds of 
this region quit the verdure of the hillsides, and 
after sipping of the cooling water on the square, 
raise their carols in concert before the sacred 
resting place of Laghetto. On such occasions 
one hears the voices of the finch, the linnet, the 
chardonneret, the fauvette, and chief among the 
choristers, the solitary martingale, its melodious 
notes at some moments surpass the sweetness and 
force of the nightingale, which, with its celestial 
voice at break of day, gives out its touching, 
melancholy tone in perfect harmony with 
the heathen talisman and the sanctity of 
the domicile of the Madonna. On the 
southern side of the square a portico 

187 



MIRACULOUS CURES 

extends beyond the facade of the main 
structure, supported b}^ several arches which 
again rest in different styles of columns. The 
centre portion of the front is open, the exterior 
cloisters to which we enter from this portico are 
spacious. On either side are arcades of lower 
arches, which lead to long corridors, where in a 
series of apartments the more \veary and suffering 
are kindly cared for by the fraternity, who have 
devoted their lives to the care of the. shrine. The 
brethren who guard the various properties of the 
asylum are known as the fathers of Laghetto. They 
also look after the spiritual welfare of the people 
of the hamlet in the vicinity of the asylum. Within 
each section of the arcades the walls are 
symmetrically covered v/ith the relics of bygone 
centuries. These relics are composed of ex-votive 
offerings, representing arms, legs, ears, eyes and 
various other members of the human frames of 
those pilgrims who have been miraculously cured 
in the domicile of Laghetto. The crutches of 
many relieved pilgrims are also carefully 
displayed under the arches as grateful souvenirs. 
Beyond the corridor to the right is a hall 
commanding a view of the lower valley. In this is 
the treasure room where are guarded the more 
precious offerings of those who came suffering 
and went away rejoicing. These consist of 
precious stones in diadems, rings, brooches and 



JOLIFFE 

other jewelry, contributed by those who have 
experienced the efficacy of prayer to the Madonna. 
In the centre of the structure is the Hall of the 
Vow^ or the inner sanctuary, where Laghetto is 
enshrined. This apartment is octagonal in form, 
surmounted by a dome, through which the light 
tenderly falls upon the miraculous figure. This 
is, in fact, the only light entering the shrine which 
is ornamented throughout with almost Grecian 
purity of decoration. The communion table, which 
is formed by the broad rail before the altar is of 
white marble with a black marble balustrade from 
the ruins of an old palace of the Grimaldi family. 
Who can explain that peculiar sensation which 
is experienced on coming within the salutary 
influences of the sacred precinct? Though the 
domicile of the Madonna of Laghetto is 
unpretending, every soul having the slighest 
respect for religion cannot fail to be impressed 
with the mysterious atmosphere through which 
stream with solemn effect the rays of the 
sunlight, penetrating the pictured windows of 
the dome. This light also daily shines on the 
grateful offerings in precious stones that in 
bygone centuries have been carefully given by 
wealthy worshipers who have there exchanged 
their sufferings for relief and comfort, and who 
have gone away with a new love in their hearts. 
The arched niche in wliich Laghetto has rested 

189 



MADONNA OF LAGHETTO 

several hundred years is entirely of chiseled 
marble, with fluted, curled and beaded 
borders, the many recesses, niches, tablets 
and pilasters of the walls and the sectional 
divisions of the inside of the dome beautified with 
many devices, and of marble of different hues, all 
finely finished and polished, so that they receive 
and reflect light from every point. During 
twenty-five years the author has seen these 
confiding pilgrims in groups, coming from the 
west, the east and the north to the shrine of 
Laghetto. I have remarked their hopeful 
countenances as they limped and struggled 
through the valley. Even the more ailing, 
who were being kindly supported by their 
families or companions, were ever gazing 
in advance, seeking the first glimpse of 
the tenement of the healing Madonna. When at 
last within the sacred precincts where the effigy 
of Laghetto is enshrined, I have seen them 
confidently pressing through the throng, impatient 
to be cured, evincing in their mien their belief that 
they only needed to look on the Madonna of 
Laghetto and their happy release from all pain 
would be assured and be the reward of their faith. 
The most interesting moments were those when 
the suffering pilgrim first raised his anxious eyes 
imploringly on the healing Madonna. It almost 
seemed sometimes as though that be jeweled, 
painted efiigy regarded them with tender looks 

190 



JOLIFFE 

of sympathy and quickly expressed a willingness 
to respond to the fervent prayers of those 
simple-hearted peasants. 

With the assembled multitude we had a fine 
opportunity of regarding their countenances and 
of observing the impression on the different 
temperaments as devout sufferers or cripples, one 
after another, rose from prayer and, leaving their 
crutches, stood for a moment before the shrine, 
and then in rejoicing, walked away to share their 
contentment with their friends. 

It was not yet ten of the clock in the morning. 
The rich who came in curiosity arrived by the 
upper or Corniche road and looked on as at a 
spectacle in a place of amusement. Every little 
while groups of dust-covered pilgrims came by 
the Paillon river side route, and the narrow 
paths of the valley of Trinity Victor to join with 
the worshipers. With eagerness they looked on 
and with bated breath they beheld in wonderment 
the blessing obtained by so many of those who 
have preceded them. 

Whether it was the earnestness of the faith of 
the pilgrims, their superstition or their 
extraordinary efforts in climbing to that mountain 
altar that relieved their fettered muscles I know 
not, but among the thousands who came suffering 
I have seen scores hang up their crutches and go 
away rejoicing. 

191 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

. ADELIA AND JOLIFFE ARRIVE 

Our interest was increasing, and great was our 
astonishment when after hearing the sound of 
horses feet without, we saw among the multitude 
a Hmping girl move quietly through the throng 
toward the altar rail in front of the kneeling 
congregation. The sound of hoofs without had 
been Adelia's Joliffe. It was she who then knelt 
among the pilgrims. In the course of the morning 
many rose and passed into the sacristy. Great 
was our delight when Adelia followed the others, 
no longer limping. She walked at ease, and with 
a countenance gleaming, not only with pleasure, 
but earnest in thankfulness, she joined those 
who instead of laying down their lives, as did 
the hordes before Omdurman, have in faith 
bowed before that symbol of a divine power. She 
has become one of those who halt no more ; they 
have dispensed with artificial support and go 
forth as other men ; nor do they forget to thank 
God. No fee is demanded; they that have and 
to spare may contribute to the sustenance of the 
few brethren of the cloister who attend to the 
chapel. The poor lam.e leave only what they best 
and joyfully can afford, their crutches; these 

192 



JOLIFFE 

they give in evidence of the benefit conferred. 
Among those who found reUef were some as of 
old, ''who returned not to give glory to God." 
Let us charitably hope that in their joy they only 
forgot for a moment to think of the divine power 
whence came the blessing. Of the multitude on 
bended knees who pour out their hearts in 
gratitude, many must have heard that heavenly 
voice which spake to the cleansed leper, saying: 
"Thy faith hath made thee whole." 

The life of the cloister brethren who were in 
charge under the supervision of the church 
authorities of the diocese, was one of strict 
discipline, and always has been a work of great 
denial. The confidence of the people and the 
clergy in the efficacy of the presence of the 
Madonna is remarkable. 

A ctirious incident in the seventeenth century 
was the recommendation of the fathers of the 
church that every priest of the cloister should 
be supplied with a small vial of the olive oil from 
the lamps that burn near the sacred effigy. They 
were instructed to anoint those who desired it in 
the chapel, and they w^ere recommended to take 
it with them abroad, so that when they visited 
the suffering among the devout in the villages, 
and even cities, they should apply that oil as a 
sacred unction. The records of the sanctuary 
of the Madonna professed to show that many 

193 



ADELIA CURED OF LAMENESS 

who were prostrated with great suffering, on 
being touched with that unction, rose from their 
beds and hastened to tell their neighbors and the 
world the result of their faith. 

When Adelia arrived at the grotto of Laghetto, 
Joliffe was attached to an iron ring in the wall of 
a ruined rest house of the seventeenth century. 
Curiosity soon induced Nicolas to enter the 
church and participate in the peculiar services. 
Naturally he became absorbed in watching 
Adelia, for besides his affection for the horse, he 
had great esteem for his mistress ; great therefore 
was his emotion when he saw her rise from her 
devotions, apparently free from all lameness, and 
walk erect into the sacristy to express her 
gratitude. 

When Adelia came out Nicolas, seeing that she 
was ready and bright with rejoicing, went to 
unfasten Joliffe and bring him to Adelia. What 
was his surprise when he found that Joliffe had 
not only turned up the ground as usual, but he 
had pulled down part of the old wall to which he 
had been attached, and had exposed to view a 
small flat iron box, considerably broken. 

Nicolas quickly picked up the box and a few 
stray sheets of paper, which had fallen from it, 
and carried them into the verger of the chapel, 
who called one of the brethren of the monastery. 
Adelia and Aleco were naturally curious to see 

194 



JOLIFFE 

what the box might contain, and followed Nicolas 
and the verger until one of the officiating priests 
had made cursory examination of its contents. 
As it evidently was considered the property of 
the shrine the box was left in their possession. 

After casually regarding the contents and some 
consultation among the priests it was decided that 
the box should be placed in safety until it could 
be thoroughly examined in the presence of the 
Bishop of the diocese. We have since learned 
of the result of the final inspection of those 
papers, which we will give in an appendix for 
those who are sufficiently interested in these 
incidents of faith. The appendix will be entitled 
"Joliffe's Iron Box." 

When Adelia entered that sacristy Nicolas 
knew just what was being done. He and Adelia 
had arranged their plans. Therefore with a 
heart full of contentment he waited until Adelia 
came out. She had generously left a valuable 
expression of her thankfulness with the priests in 
the treasure room. When that was accomplished 
Adelia asked to see the rector, and arranged with 
him to unite her in the bonds of matrimony with 
one whom she told his reverence she had chosen 
as her companion for life. Her first thought was 
to write to Clementine, at Montpelier. She sent 
her an ample money order and urged her to attend 
the ceremony. Clementine came. 

195 



ADELIA'S MARRIAGE 

Some days later, on the 24th of Decembc 
Adelia became Madame Nicolas Foriefe. Tl 
next day Adelia asked Nicolas how he liked his 
Christmas present. 

Now that Nicolas had become part owner of 
the horse he and Adelia adored Joliffe. 



196 / 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

SEQUENCE. 

VVe desire to profit by the wonderful events we 
have witnessed in that shrine. 

Every episode should have a moral ! 

We are all struggling through the same 
highway of this life of probation. Many of us are 
crippled by sin, yet by faith we may some day 
throw away these crutches of mortality and by 
faith in our Redeemer without any effigy, simply 
through our Saviour's love, we shall be changed, 
we shall become immortal, nevermore to halt, 
nor limp, nor suffer, we shall stand forever at 
the right hand of Him who once said: "Come 
unto me all ye that are heavy laden," and then 
we shall realize that it is not the mountain that 
has moved, it will be that we shall be fixed upon 
it through faith. 



197 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

APPENDIX 
JOLIFFE'S IRON BOX. 

The information in regard to the ancient cloister 
and resting place of the Madonna, contained in 
the box exposed to view by Joliffe was probably 
part of the material prepared for publication 
in Italy in 1654. It seemed to have been the 
work of Pere Francois de Sestri, of the Order of 
the Capucines. We were led to recognize this, 
for among the papers was a letter from her Royal 
Highness Madame Christine, the daughter of 
Henry IV, of France, the wife of Victor 
Amadeus of Savoy. The Duchess of Savoy had 
written it to Monsignor Desire Palletis, Bishop of 
Nice. 

Her object in writing was evidently the 
encouragement of the pilgrimages to the shrine, in 
the hope that many sufferers might be cured by 
the miraculous powers of the Madonna of 
Laghetto. 

In the most remote records of Laghetto we 
find this shrine known as the inhabited chateau 
of the Madonna; it was certainly the dwelling 
place of the Holy Effigy. It was originally the 
property of Pierre Antoine Magagli of La Tourbie 

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JOIvlFFE 

He was known as "The Patriarch,"' because 
he had a very numerous family. The chateau 
was certainly in the sixteenth century the 
domicile of the sacred effigy of the Madonna of 
Laghetto. On a fragment of the manuscript a 
divine had written : "In view of the devotion of 
the early monastic occupants of this retreat it was 
the Golden Age of Piety !" The sanctuary seems to 
have been established in this glen in the Alpes 
Maritimes as though better to speak to the hearts 
of the people of that shore, dazzled by the 
splendor of its climate. 

The Madonna once domiciled there, seems to 
have intended to invoke them in that grotto 
of austere solitude. Surely all who have 
congregated there have found it to be a holy and 
profitable place. It is even believed that the 
existence of that shrine, and faith in the powers 
of the Madonna of Laghetto was as ancient as 
the establishment of Christianity in the Alpes 
Maritimes. Even in this sixteenth century it has 
been said that its origin has been lost in the night 
of time. 

Another part of the manuscript from, the box 
was contributed by a shoeless Carmelite brother. 
Speaking of the effigy of Notre Dame de Laghetto 
he said : "Standing erect in her niche above and 
behind the tabernacle, the figure of the saint is 
carved in hard wood, much of it in its natural 

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THE SACRED MADONNA. 

color. Other parts lacquered and gilded. The 
reflected light of several lamps illumines the 
sacred Madonna, who holds on her right arm the 
graceful infant Jesus, extending in her left hand a 
silver sceptre, symbol of the Divine Power. The 
head, like that of her infant son, bears a crown 
of gold, incrusted with many precious stones. 
The entire body is clothed with a profusion of 
rich apparel. In that attitude, amidst emblems of 
divinity, she has a countenance seeming to 
express the most celestial benevolence; her 
physiognomy shows a touching disposition to 
listen to all who sincerely come in faith. In her 
tender eyes one is assured that she is ready to 
intercede. 

Behold Notre Dame de Laghetto ! No mortal 
claims any right to the sanctuary or the 
surroundings, the buildings, the fountain; 
everything is the property and under the 
administration of heavenly power. 

On a manuscript written in the seventeenth 
century was the following statement: "After 
diligently searching all the archives of the 
department of Nice, that in the eleventh century 
the wealthy and powerful monks of Lerins 
possessed even this ravine of Laghetto under the 
title of Saint Martin d'Agerbol or of Mount Agel. 
It was in this chapel in the very bosom of this 
ravine that the inhabitants in 1382 concluded 
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' JOLIFFE 

a contract with the Bishop of Nice. Among other 
matters of interest were found some notes 
extracted from papers of the ancient family, 
FenogH of Ventimillia, in which it was related 
that a young man of that city Vv^as visiting his 
sister at La Tourbie. Being a man of wealth, 
he had procured one of the new guns with 
explosive powder which had only been invented 
in the close of the fourteenth or the opening 
of the fifteenth century. 

One day when hunting for game in the 
neighborhood of Laghetto, he saw a partridge 
flying in the direction of the high bushes before 
him. He fired and the bird fell on the other side 
of the hedge. On going there for it he discovered 
for the first time a niche in the wall behind the 
bushes, in which was a painting of the Virgin, 
an object of adoration of the peasantry. Some 
of the shot from his gun had pierced the heart 
of the Virgin. He was instantly seized with 
remorse, for in his excitement he imagined that 
blood was issuing from the wound. Brought up 
with the pious ideas of the day, he was impressed 
with the sacrilege he supposed he had committed. 
He hurried to relate the marvelous occurrence 
to his family. To repair this innocent profanation, 
the family being possessed of large revenues, 
decided immediately to erect a memorial chapel 
in expiation of the accident. Many of their 

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FRANCOIS DE SESTRL 

friends associated themselves in the enterprise 
and the shrine was built on the very spot where 
the lamentable event had occurred. From that 
time pilgrims assembled at the chapel of lyaghetto, 
which became celebrated throughout the litoral. 

Although the Capucian father, Francois de 
Sestri, writing in 1654, found this sufficiently 
interesting to place among the old papers which 
were found in the box, he acknowledged in an 
official notice the most entire ignorance in regard 
to the earliest history of this shrine. "The fathers 
of our church," said he, "have said there seems 
to have been a predestination that certain grottoes 
and ravines should be sanctified." 

Here in the gorge of Laghetto the idea seems 
to have been that getting away from a busy world 
one approaches nearer to God. The soul, tried by 
earthly occupations, breathes more freely here 
and finds itself nearer to Paradise, though one 
cannot locate heaven. 

Everywhere throughout the Alpes Maritimes 
one is impressed with the contrast between the 
works of man and the grandeur of God's 
creations. 

Besides many papers found in the iron box 
interesting yet too numerous to mention here, 
there was a paper relating to a remarkable 
deliverance from prison in connection with the 
shrine of Laghetto. In the sixteenth century the 
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JOLIFFE 

chapel had great need of repairs, when Hyacinth 
Cassanova, a man not possessed of very great 
intelligence, failed in health and was attacked with 
a dangerous illness. He was persuaded to go to 
the Madonna of Laghetto, of whom he had often 
heard. He was immediately cured. The joy of 
his restoration to health caused him with great 
emotion to tell of it to everyone around him. 
Camille Porta and Anne Giongona, two of his 
neighbors, persuaded him to return to the 
sacred place. Numbers of his personal friends 
accompanied him in testimony of their pious 
gratitude. Cassanova returned a number of times 
to the shrine, but without any other obj ect than of 
discharging a personal debt of gratitude. In fact, 
he soon ceased to follow the road to Laghetto. 
His first companions in his pilgrimage noticed 
that the asylum of the Madonna was falling into 
decay, which they deplored the more from the 
recent grace that had been accorded, felt that they 
should go there and do something for the shrine. 
Towards God, as often towards men, gratitude 
soon passes. To the shame of our human nature 
it does not often do more than affect the heart 
by a momentary impulse, which is soon forgotten. 
Happily among those who had accompanied 
Hyacinth Cassanova to Laghetto there was a 
certain Christophe de I'Are, a man of the common 
people, in whose heart there was a strong and 

203 



CHRISTOPHE DE UARE. 

living faith. On this occasion Christophe was 
impelled more than any of the others by a 
sentiment of veneration for the Madonna and of 
solicitude for the condition of her domicile. Some 
insensible and unaccountable force seemed to urge 
him on. He found a mysterious charm in that 
religious solitude. Seeing the neglected condition 
of the shrine, a receptacle for dust and dirt, he 
resolved in proportion to his resources, to keep 
the shrine in a more seemly condition, and 
although he resided at a distance he for some time 
fulfilled the duties of sacristan. 

A woman of the same country as Christophe 
came during two years before he had been there 
to solicit the deliverance of her son, v/ho had 
fallen into the hands of barbarous pirates. Her 
name was Gian Gome. By the advice of a friend 
in La Tourbie, Gian promised to make nine visits 
more to the shrine, and that every day should be 
a fete. On the second day of the nine, under the 
effect of fatigue, she fell asleep in the chapel. 
After dreaming for awhile she thought she heard 
three knocks at the doors, and she saw her son 
in a vision immediately set free. Notwithstanding 
that she continued the nine days, and on the 
completion of her vow her son appeared beside 
her in reality. After comparing the date of her 
vision and the day of his deliverance it was found 
that they were simultaneous. 

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' JOLIFFE 

Christophe de TAre continued his visits and 
in gratitude carried little candlesticks with 
candles, an humble tribute of his gratitude. 
Notwithstanding his sincerity his companions, 
seeing him voluntarily perform these services, did 
not hesitate to tease and mock him. "You stupid 
fellow," they cried, with the intemperate tongues 
of those meridional people, ''dost thou hope that 
by accident the palings of the fences in this rude 
place will bloom in winter with roses to decorate 
thy foolish devotions? Dost thou expect that 
honey will flow from the granite, or that these 
hard rocks will yield thee streams of oil ? Perhaps 
it is time that God transform these stones into 
sources of living water and that He shall 
cause manna to rain here as it once did in the 
desert. If by thy ridiculous attentions thou dost 
pretend to be able to obtain generosity from the 
Madonna turn thyself to other altars." But all 
their biting sarcasm did not succeed in turning 
Christophe from his pious assiduity. One day 
on the stones of the altar which had become 
detached by time and tremblings of the earth he 
perceived in his impassioned imagination what 
appeared to him to be the object of his veneration. 
She was holding on her arm the Divine Infant. 
Her countenance beamed with such beautiful light 
that the chapel seemed to be illumined with her 
effulgence. Christophe, poor man, enjoyed for 

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ANTOINE FIGHIERA. 

some moments a view of paradise, yet confused 
with the vision, he trembled with fervor. The 
statue of the Madonna, on which he looked, was 
sculptured wood, and v/as not wanting in art. 
Now when Christophe looked at it again the 
Madonna seemed to be dressed anew in a purple 
robe and a mantle of blue, spangled with stars. 

Both the mother and child differed in 
appearance and in splendor from the statue to 
which he had been accustomed to kneel. He felt 
convinced that he was in the presence of^ a 
marvelous apparition. 

In his continued visits he always found what 
seemed to him to be a new Madonna, yet standing 
in the same place. Again he asked what 
benefactor could have thus mysteriously enriched 
the poor chapel with the treasures of his piety. 
From the information he was able to gather he 
finally sought to make known the truth he had 
discovered. 

The good v/ork was really the generous gift of 
Antoine Fighiera of Eza. The commune of Eza 
had in [652 formed a procession and deposited 
the new statue in the niche above the high altar. 

The family of Antoine P'ighiera had long prized 
this effigy of the Virgin, and according to the 
Italian and Spanish custom, the Fighiera family 
had daily paid it a tribute of prayers. The 
wonderful cure of Hyacinth Cassanova and other 

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JOLIFFE 

similar blessings accorded many of them less 
known or even forgotten by the community 
were remembered by Antoine Fighiera, who was 
therefore moved to encourage the popular piety of 
the community, which he thought he could best 
accomplish by presenting the beautiful virgin 
which an artist,, Jean Rocca, had painted at his 
order. 

It has been related that Fighiera, fearing he 
m.ight die before he could have the figure 
completed, constantly urged Jean Rocca to be 
diligent. He said to the artist : ''You should be 
industrious, bearing as you do the name of the 
Evangelist John, Why work with the movement 
of a turtle ? Apply yourself, break the cords that 
enchain your hands that the benevolence of God 
may again be visible in our chapel." 

Soon after the realization of this charitable 
design Fighiera died, loved by all the community. 

That gift of Antoine Fighiera marked a very 
important date in the history of the pilgrimages 
to Laghetto. This Madonna was placed in the 
niche in the chapel with solemn services and a 
blessing in 1652, as is elsev/here mentioned. 

There was an old paper written in Italian and 
Latin which related another release of a man 
from prison. He was a Neapolitan, named 
Dominique Vitello, his wife having heard of the 
miraculous deliverance of Gian Gome, went 

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DOMINIQUE VITELLO. 

hopefully to the shrine of Laghetto, and demanded 
the intercession of the Madonna, asking that her 
husband might be restored to her, and in a few 
days the doors of his cell opened by the hand of a 
the doors of his cell opened by the hand of a 
beautiful young woman, clothed in pale blue. 
He was so bewildered with the apparition that for 
some moments he moved not. The angelic being 
then besought him to approach her, and led him 
to liberty. On gaining his freedom he went 
immediately to the prince of the domain where he 
resided and related what had occurred. The 
prince, stupefied at seeing him, advised him 
that as he had obtained such a great 
favor, he should be devout and remember the 
Madonna of Laghetto. Dominique Vitello went 
to his devotions and soon after had prepared a 
lamp in gilded copper. For the supply of the 
lamp he made a vow to furnish each year fifty 
kilogrammes, about one hundred and four 
English pounds, of colza oil. 

In another manuscript, also in Italian, we find 
a statement, evidently written very carefully by 
an aged prelate : ''We have continually desired, in 
recording the marvelous events that we know 
to have occurred in this seventeenth century, to 
avoid all statements that might have the slightest 
color of superstition. We must, however, confess 
that among all those worshippers there did 

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JOUFFE 

enter some wolves in sheep's clothing, who on 
several occasions managed at night to rob the 
Madonna's diadem of some precious stones. 

*'We also regret to record the fact, but history 
is history ; in the close of the seventeenth century 
the pilgrimages attracted so many people that 
certain sordid authorities in the chapel, noticed 
that often many could not make the offerings they 
otherwise would have deposited could they have 
reached the main altar. They therefore arranged 
two other chapels on the sides of the sanctuary, 
where the devout were given opportunities to 
make contributions of money. At one of these 
altars they had set up a figure of Saint Anthony 
of Padua, and in a frame beside the altar were 
instructions that any one who had met with a loss 
should address a letter to that saint, promising 
to aid the charities of the chapel in case the lost 
objects should be restored. 

*'In 1785 the Bishop of the diocese disapproved 
of these evident efforts to collect money. He 
ordered that the temple be restored to its former 
simplicity, and since then the work of the shoeless 
Carmelites in charge has continued, and many 
are yearly profited by benefits received at the 
hands of the Madonna of Laghetto." 

Wrapped in an old muslin cloth there was a 
parchment with a red border, heavily written in 
Latin, stating that although so many were solaced 

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PROPERTIES OF THE MADONNA. 

in Laghetto, sorrow did sometimes enter the 
sacred premises. On the i8th of September the 
dome of the church suddenly fell in. It was in 
the year 1658, when a new prelate had just been 
called to the charge. He was present at that 
moment, and seeing the timbers falling, he threw 
up his arms and called to others to save 
themselves, though in the debris he was stricken 
senseless to the floor, and before he could be 
removed, there gave up his life. 

We note in an invoice written on the coarse 
paper of the seventeenth century a list of the 
properties of the Madonna. Among other things 
a superb robe of yellow damask, embossed with 
silver flowers. It was the gift of the family of 
the Prince of Monaco on the occasion of the 
death of their youngest daughter, who died 
at eighteen years of age. Her garments and 
wardrobe were distributed among benevolent 
institutions. 

On the pages of another Httle paper book were 
inscribed the cures and blessings which sometimes 
seemed to be by supernatural power, although in 
a preface the religious author stated that in 
describing blessings received they desired to look 
upon none of the benefits as miraculous. 

The same author mentions the rich decorations 
for the altar received from princely and noble 
families. They were of great price. The tabernacle, 
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JOLIFFE 

the chandeliers were in silver, also the eleven 
lamps which burned constantly in honor 
of the Madonna, the devout diocese never failing 
to supply the oil necessary for the light. 

Also accounts of processions that were 
remarkable for the numbers of pious people who 
joined in them. At a certain moment in the 
ceremonies the sick and infirm were led up to the 
Madonna's altar to be blessed; the priest then 
anointed them with oil from the lamps that were 
burning there, and among those who approached 
many were cured of their infirmities. 

Another old document relates that at one time 
a Piedmontese by the name of Denys Lanteri, who 
during a year had been employed in the chapel, 
conceived the idea that it might be a blessing to 
the community in La Tourbie if he could remove 
the figure of the Madonna and place it there. 
This he accomplished at night, and though 
stopped on the way by a military guard on the 
mountains, who questioned him about his burden, 
succeeded in deceiving them and going on his 
way, a dirty old canvas cover having concealed 
the value of his charge. The diocese has the 
testimony of two men, since deceased, one of 
them 83 years of age. From some accounts we 
find that the figure remained at La Tourbie 
several years, and that finally v/hen it was restored 
to Laghetto the Madonna was carried in triumph 
211 



FETE OF THE SHEPHERDS. 

and replaced in the niche where it had remained 
so many years. 

It is also recorded that impious fanatics in the 
valley had conceived the idea of burning the 
venerable statue, and that when the congregation 
was warned of this sinister project they again for 
awhile hid it away, but even the authorities of 
the Government appreciated the value of the 
effigy, and the Madonna was again restored to 
the niche and the blessings continued to follow its 
re-installation. 

Before finishing our review of the contents of 
the Iron Box we will describe one more document. 
In a thin sheep-skin pouch discolored with age 
was a folded paper, also darkened and cracked 
with time, on which was written an interesting 
account of what was known at that time as the 
"Fete of the Shepherds." 

The ceremony had a pious charm, which 
included a symbol of the Good Shepherd, Jesus. 
We hope this description may interest those who 
may read these records of the seventeenth century. 

Before the priest commenced the mass a number 
of lambs could be heard bleating in the courts 
of the chapel, and even in the nave. They were 
not fastened, but were left free to run about and 
play with one another, which they did with 
charming innocence. They looked very beautiful, 
for they had been scoured and locks of wool 

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JOLIFFE 

between their ears were decorated with pink and 

blue ribbons. 

This ceremony always took place in midwinter, 

when the snow had driven the shepherds and their 

flocks from the mountains to the more clement 

climate of Laghetto. 

These lambs and their masters in the peculiar 

costumes of their mountain heights formed a 

picturesque effect in the sanctuary. 

The religious idea was that one of these lambs 

was to be offered at the altar, with the hope that 
a blessing might be accorded to all the flocks. 
For the one to be offered they had chosen the 
healthiest and most perfect animal of all that were 
presented. 

Even the shepherd dogs were there. After 
some prayers the shepherds, their women, the 
lambs and the priests formed a procession, which 
was a beautiful feature of the ceremonies. The 
bleating of the lambs in unison with the voices 
of the foresters, produced a very striking effect. 
At the close of the service the shepherds all joined 
in the offering of the chosen lamb. 



213 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

CLOSING OF THE EIGHTEENTH 

AND COMMENCEMENT 
OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 

The finding of this box by Joliffe and the 
discovery of these manuscripts caused the Bishop 
of the diocese to search other records which had 
been guarded behind the niche of the Madonna 
in the wall of the high altar. There certain 
papers were found, concerning the year 1790 and 
the epoch of the reign of Napoleon I. There had 
been so many claims of possession of this chapel 
and its surroundings by different powers in Italy 
before that country was annexed to France, that 
Napoleon I issued a decree from his palace at the 
Tuilleries on the 24th of January, 181 1, and 
through his orders the Minister of Finance and 
the Prefect were authorized to place at the 
disposition of the Bishop of the Diocese of Nice 
the church, the convent and the asylum of Notre 
Dame de Laghetto. 

It has remained for the author to record what 
was unconsciously accomplished and contributed 
to these incidents by 

JOLIFFE. 

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